between a wire harness thats made for 2 hellas or 3 ??

in the mail i ordered 3 hellas for my new front end mod . would like to hook all 3 hellas up on one switch , but the kit only came with 2 hellas and wire harness for them . kit has the standerd 4 poll relay , fuse , switch and wire .... so how do i do the 3rd ?? just wire it in searies ???

thanks
RH

 

Personally, I'd toss the relay. It's basically to make the lights legal and shut off when you turn your high beams on.

I'd wire in series and go straight off the battery (I'll usually go to the fuse box post) and then thru an inline fuse and to the switch (2 post unless you want to wire it for an LED, then its three post). Just make sure your inline and your switch is capable of the AMPs you'll need. I make sure my inline is 5 amps lower than my switch, so if I blow anything, it's the fuse.

Thisaway, you can use your lights with your high beams off road.

Stock 55 watt Hellas are gonna draw like 4.6 amps each. If you opt to upgrade your wiring and go with 100 watt bulbs then the draw is about 9.2 amps per...


Oh, and remember to turn your Hellas off when you turn the truck off or your battery will go dead. If this is an issue, then remove your fuse box and hit a switched post from underneath...

 

im not going to wire them to the OEM switch . just a aftermarket toggle . kick them on when i want them .

 

Not a problem, but like I said make sure the switch will handle the amperage draw since you are not going thru a relay. That's why Hella gives you such a cheazy little switch, with the relay, the only thing going to the switch is like .7 amps for the LED.

Like I stated, I'd wire it direct without the relay and for the stock bulbs, go with a 15 amp fuse and a 20 amp switch minimum.

Autozone has a slew of 20, 25 and 30 amp switches and all of them are under $10 for a lighted one, unlighted start at about $3.

Daystar makes a series of them with about every color LED you could think of...




I just wired up a buddies cheby with 2 Hellas I re-wired with all 14 gauge to take 100 watt bulbs. Used this setup and he loves it!

For mine, I stayed with the 55 watts and wired to my fog light relay. I almost never use the fogs except off road, so now they come on together and I didn't have to cut for a switch. Only difference is, mine cut off with the high beams (although I have a DIY to fix that in the FAQ section, LOL)...

 

ya i will have the good ol meter out running the draws . the biggest question was if i could run them in a searies , so you answered that so im good . thanks hammer .

 

Actually series means alternating the pos and neg's.
You want to run them in Parallel. That means all the positives to the switch and all the negatives to ground, but I'm sure that's what Hammer meant???
As far as the Relay...Relays are used to handle the brunt of the power and the switch is just a signal to allow the power to flow through the relay.
Relays are a saftey device and if you wanted to use it you would want to wire the relay as follows:
30-hook this to battery with an inline fuse of 20amps for 3-55w bulbs
87-to positive wire on lights
85-switch turn on
86-grounded

This will bypass Hella's idiodic design and allow you to turn the lights on when you want. This also allows you to use a cheezmo switch but not the one they provide. You will need a simple on/off switch that has only 2 prongs on the backside, not 3.
Series ran means the power is divided up amongst the lights(12v/3=4v each light) and current remains the same. Series would make the lights very dim.
Parallel means the voltage is the same at all the lights(12v) and the current is multiplied by the amount of lights used. parallel is more power per unit but more current as well.

If you don't wanna use a relay, you'll need a hefty enough rocker switch capable of 20amps for 3 Hellas. Then you can ditch the relay.

make sure ya take picz too.

 

Hammer how do you access the Bottom of the fuses? I want to wire my hellas through the factroy box but couldn't get it apart. The other thing I was wondeing about is which fuse spot to use. I checked all the empty slits and every spot with tabs had a constant 12v even with the battery disconnected and the keys out of the ignition. I want them to be ran through a 12v that's only hot when the keys are in.

 

Not sure which slot you could use, but you could use a relay and run a t-tap off of an ignition wire underneath the dash.
Hammer's box is diff than yours I believe. I know my '08 is. i think the 06-08's are the same where there are no on board relays as the ecu does all that within itself.

 

Tis true, I tried to do the little "fog lights on with high beam" deal to a friends '07 Hemi and no dice.