So my front right cv is shot.. Jumping like crazy where it connects to the front differential.. I think I'm going to try and go for it myself. (Place wants 650 to change it) and I'm wondering if there is any write ups to see if I'm in over my head? Or any diy's or a step by step? Anything. Lol. I just put my body lift on, so I'm not that dumb.. I wanna fix everything on my truck myself.. Gives me satisfaction. Thanks everyone

 

I googled 2003 Dodge 1500 Service manual and got a free manual downloaded, try that out first.
This is what I got out of mine
(1) Loosen lug nuts and hub nut while the with the vehicle brakes applied.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly
(4) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(5) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(6) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(7) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(8) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(9) Disengage inner C/V joint from the axle shaft snap-ring by apply pressure with two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle housing.
(10) Tilt the knuckle out and push the half shaft out of the knuckle (Fig. 2).

Installation is just reverse. You'll have to pry the CV shaft off it takes a bit of force, and you really gotta jam it back on to get it seated properly. Other than normal sockets/wrenches you'll need something to press out the balljoint (I used a pitman arm puller) and a deep socket that fits the hub nut. (36mm, I used closest imperial and it worked thankfully) I'm sure others will be able to chime in with more details I'm forgetting!

 

yeah thats mostly accurate. you only need to undo 3 bolts not including the caliper/rotor. The axle nut, the steering linkage nut, and the upper ball joint nut. With the steering linkage nut and the upper BJ nuts, just back the nuts off and smack the bolt with a hammer. you dont need any pullers to seperate the ball joint.

removing the steering linkage allows the spindle to rotate freely on an x-axis, and removing the upper ball joint nut allows the spindle to drop down from the upper control arm on the y-axis.

the rest of it is correct

 

Just a recommendation (nothing to panic about) but if you purchase cordone rebuilt CV's as it has happened to me twice now (both sides).

If you can rotate the Clamped down Rubber CV boot on the lower Steel Pot by hand you will need to either recrimp the band clamp until it is tight (can't move it) or replace the clamp with a new one. I would check that at the parts store. Why because if you can turn it the grease will soon work it's way out and be thrown all around your inner fender well and hence the joint will no longer be lubed.

Cost for good clamps about 2 bucks each, Special tool 40 bucks, grease and if this happens you can repair it in the driveway without jacking up the vehicle (just turn wheels). If it happens you will notice the grease when you walk past.

 

What kind of grease goes in it?

 

Bump...

 

You can forget about half of those steps... no need to remove the brakes/rotors, leave the shock on, and you dont need a special tool to remove the upper ball-joint all they do is wreck the boot. They are a tapered fit so all you need is to hit the side of the knuckle with a big hammer and she'll pop right out. If you dont have a impact gun get someone to hold the brakes while you loosen the axle nut.

If the inboard end of the cv shaft in flopping around its quite possible you effed up the output shaft as well. I've been down this road lol...

Make sure you get a new clip and o-ring for the inside end of the new shaft.

My 2 cents.

 

1. Don't hit the knuckle with a hammer, it specifically states not to do that in the service manual. The puller listed is similar to a pitman arm puller. It presses the taper out of the knuckle. Whacking the knuckle can fatigue the aluminum and lead to a fracture down the road... I do the hammer method on a lot of iron knuckles... but never on aluminum ones.

2. I'd recommend unloading the torsion bar, it can be done with out unloading them... There is a lot of stored energy in them, better safe than sorry.

 

I am old school but agree, please no striking, it causes damage easy, stick to the service manual procedure if its your first time after that some percieved shortcuts learned along the way can always be used to save time. First time might take an hour, fourth time it could take you 15 minutes or faster).

I've seen pinkish and I've seen greenish colour grease in those when new rebuilt or leaking after the first few days (use what you would for your u-joints).

Also forgot to add you may want to use a 4" (approx) length needle adapter for your grease gun if you got trouble getting your (flex extension) end in-between the boot and pot if you get into that situation I descibed.