i got my royal purple in the mail yesterday so its time to do the front\rear differentials but i need some questions answered.ive seen many diffrent answeres so please help only if u have done this already.

rear diff:
when i open it up do i want to pull the c clips out even if they are fine and in place? if yes then is it hard? do i need special tools? can i see all of them easily? whats the right measurement below the fill hole for the gear oil, 1/2,5/8 below? do i torque them to 15 fp first then to 30 fp?

front diff:
do i torque it the same as the rear? is the transfer case something i can do myself/whats involved in changing that oil? how far below that fill hole do i fill it?

thanks guys!

 

One Point: Front diff housing is aluminum (C205) so go easy on bolt install. I have a couple on mine that were stretched by previous owner so I put thread-locker as well as the Mopar RTV approuved for Diff Fluid.

 

You don't want to pull the c-clips out of the rear unless you want to watch your tire and axle continue straight down the road when you take a turn. What you want to pull out are the clutch pack retaining clips they look like little w's on the ends.

 

If intact leave alone, your diff. is a little better than earlier models. albeit not by much.1st Start at the top of the housing and work your way down too the bottom. It probably wont leak that much until pryed apart with a screw driver btw.
clean the insides out with brake cleaner dry completely.
Clean both cover and housing well. now is a good time too paint the cover with any engine paint of your choice.
Rvt one side.I use the cover,it's easier to cover the bolt holes.I also use a awl to line up the bolt holes for assembly. it can be a pain to line up.imo
After initial bolts are hand tightened cross tighten all the bolts using the star pattern. 14 ft lbs btw. then once around and your done.
wait a couple of hours too let rvt set. fill 2 and 1/3rd quarts in the rear little less in the front. Stick your finger in the hole to the first knuckle and feel downward. if you hit oil your full. Enjoy every 15k miles oh joy!!

aa

 

^^^ You'll be better of starting at the bottom and working your way to the top, letting the oil drain as you go. Unless you enjoy taking a bath in gear oil, to each his own I guess.

 

See,thats what messes me up- one person says to pull the clips out and the next guy says to leave them alone,lol so if i do pull them out is it just the little w thing im taking out or is it the w clip plus the square piece from the pic above?

 

^^^ I was upside down when i typed that. my fault. The whole clip and they are not easy. a few people actually gave up. Thats why I said if intact leave alone. But hey your truck your way.

 

If the clips are intact....they have the little W on EACH end of the clip......leave them alone.
If you find a clip without a W on the end, pull that clip out, as the clip is damaged.
BTW....that last pic of the clip in the gloved hand is mine lol.

As for the torque on the front and rear covers. Yes they are different.
Tighten Rear cover bolts for a 91/2" rear in a criss-cross pattern to 41 N·m (30 ft.lbs.).
Front cover bolts for a C205F front axel are 22N.m or 15FtLbs.

The transfer case is easy. There are two Allen key bolts to the rear of the case end plate. Drain off the ATF+4 (same as your autobox) and refil to just below the top refill hole.

Hope this helps?
Al.

 

The square thing is the w piece, the w's are just broke off the ends. That's what causes the problems. The w's break off the ends and get jammed up in the spider gears. As preventive maintenance, I took out my broken ones AND the rest before they had the chance to break.

 

So if those clips can be taken out with no problems then why r they even there in the first place?