...likes not having a retarded EGR valve.

 

Yeah so I have a son with down syndrome so I appreciate your help but there is seriously no need to keep using that word.

 

Ok lets try to diagnose. First off, is there any way you got water into your intake/engine? That's what happened to me. If not, that rules out alot. So is it still stalling at low speeds? Or just getting bad gas mileage now? Did any of the things you or the "stealership" did help any?

--If it's only doing it at low speeds, or at a stop it's prolly not the EGR valve(wouldn't hurt to replace it though). EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle. The EGR valve also cools the exhaust valves and makes them last far longer (a very important benefit under light cruise conditions)



--It's prolly not the PCV valve (wouldn't hurt to replace it though) because its just a simple ball check valve, oriented so that vapor flows from the cam/valve cover to the vacuum source, usually the intake manifold or tract. It has two failure modes:

• Stuck open
• Stuck closed

Stuck open would allow normal flow of crankcase oil vapor to the vacuum source, but would allow intake pressure pulses to flow back into the cam/valve cover. This could allow gasoline into the engine cases. Gasoline has almost no lubricating properties for high-pressure applications such as crank bearings and cam followers.

Stuck closed causes a slight power loss. The PCV valve has one major function and one minor side-benefit: it allows crankcase oil vapor to be burned instead of venting to atmosphere and the vacuum applied to the crankcase reduces crankcase pressure slightly. Pistons moving up-and-down pump crankcase air as wells as intake air, using horsepower to do so. Reducing the crankcase pressure reduces pumping losses.

First off, I would check one spark plug on each cylindar, and see if they're fouled. If so replace them all and see if that fixes it. If not, change your thermostat(in the upper hose right where it connects to the water pump.) Then the coolant temperature sensor. They cost 15-20 bucks. I only say this because more and more people are having the same issues, and after weeks of trouble shooting, its the last thing they replace, and it usually fixes the problem. Our trucks are meant to run most efficiently at a set temperature. If the sensor is bad, the computer will try to compensate for what it thinks the temp is. If the thermostat is bad, your engine could be running hotter than optimum for efficient driving. Try these first man. If they don't fix it, Ill brain storm some more.

Oh and if your having problems, **dont try to tune them away.** Especially at the "stealership". Could mess the truck up even more, and it's cheaper/more fun, just to buy a diablo and do it yourself. You can read/clear error/diagnostic codes that way too. GL man!

 

Are you going to sue the entire world for using the words "Advanced" and "Retarded" when setting the timing? Loosen up a little. I'm sure he meant no offense to Handicap children.

 

Ended up getting a check engine light finally saying the EGR valve needed replacing, took care of the problem thank to all who helped.

 

I had one of those before.