Dealership Unable to Resolve Problem
#1
Dealership Unable to Resolve Problem
My '04 Ram with 5.7 Hemi has been running like crap. I'm not getting codes. I thoroughly cleaned the TB, changed the plugs, and changed the air filter. Nothing helped so I took it to the dealership.
They say they checked for an exhaust blockage at the catalytic converter, added updates to the computer, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. They could not figure out what is wrong and charged me $85 for a diagnosis that they couldn't provide.
I need some ideas as to what is going on.
The gas mileage sucks! Acceleration is slow. It has stalled on me 2 or 3 times when coming to a quick stop. Idle RPM is between 500-650. PCV is not stuck open or closed.
How can I tell if the throttle position sensor is bad? I don't want to buy a whole new TB if the sensor is not bad.
Can this be caused by the EGR valve? I replaced it before, maybe 50k miles ago. I got a code back then and I'm getting nothing now.
I've got a Actron Code Scanner Plus and everything checks out except one thing. Test $10 shows a low reading. I don't know what this $10 test is. It says minimum reading should be like 24 but it is only reading 9. I cannot even connect my scanner to my PC with the USB cable that came with it. The software doesn't even give the option to connect with USB ports and I downloaded the most current version. The only option is COM ports. Does anybody know what Test $10 is?
I researched on here and someone said to check the Thermostat and Coolant Temp Sensor. I don't know what this is supposed to do. The temperature reading seems to be normal and I haven't ever overheated.
Any ideas? I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks!
Darrell
They say they checked for an exhaust blockage at the catalytic converter, added updates to the computer, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. They could not figure out what is wrong and charged me $85 for a diagnosis that they couldn't provide.
I need some ideas as to what is going on.
The gas mileage sucks! Acceleration is slow. It has stalled on me 2 or 3 times when coming to a quick stop. Idle RPM is between 500-650. PCV is not stuck open or closed.
How can I tell if the throttle position sensor is bad? I don't want to buy a whole new TB if the sensor is not bad.
Can this be caused by the EGR valve? I replaced it before, maybe 50k miles ago. I got a code back then and I'm getting nothing now.
I've got a Actron Code Scanner Plus and everything checks out except one thing. Test $10 shows a low reading. I don't know what this $10 test is. It says minimum reading should be like 24 but it is only reading 9. I cannot even connect my scanner to my PC with the USB cable that came with it. The software doesn't even give the option to connect with USB ports and I downloaded the most current version. The only option is COM ports. Does anybody know what Test $10 is?
I researched on here and someone said to check the Thermostat and Coolant Temp Sensor. I don't know what this is supposed to do. The temperature reading seems to be normal and I haven't ever overheated.
Any ideas? I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks!
Darrell
#2
Maybe your fuel filter is cloging, maybe your fuel pump is week. If you had a bad sencor you would have a check engine light. Did they check the coil packs? Are the plugs you pulled out burnt? Is your MAP or MAF sencor being blocked. Did they check the timing. Also how do the battery connections look and how does the groundstrap look from engine to ground? There could be a host of problems there
#3
I had a similar issue. My '05 HEMI QC was running like crap for a few months with only 37K miles. It stalled on me twice while slowing down in a 10 minute period. For some reason that was the only occurrence of the infamous "HEMI stall" I had. It was also idling rough and would hesitate when I began to accelerate from a stop or taking off after shifting into drive. I love the truck, but I was seriously thinking of trading it in for another manufacturer because the dealer said all indications were normal. After a few months I finally got the check engine light with an EGR Valve code. I replaced it yesterday and (knock on wood) it feels like a brand new truck. Smooth acceleration and smoother idle. The EGR valve is a relatively cheap part ($40-$50). It is kind of a pain in the rear to get to all of the bolts though. I am no mechanic, but it is worth a shot. Good luck.
#4
Join Date: Jul 2007
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EGR at 50k old is probably going to be your problem, they seem to stay in perfectly good working order for around 40k and start to gradually deteriorate after that. Seen many a truck run like total crap due to a bad EGR that DID NOT generate a CEL.
and I can't believe your dealer didn't at least TRY THAT!!!
So called "mechanics" are getting sorry as hell anymore, if they don't have a code to tell them exactly what's broke, they are freakin' clueless!!!
and I can't believe your dealer didn't at least TRY THAT!!!
So called "mechanics" are getting sorry as hell anymore, if they don't have a code to tell them exactly what's broke, they are freakin' clueless!!!
#6
This seems to be a pretty common theme. I would go to another dealership if you have one that is not to far. If not I would ask to speak to a manager and tell him or her that it is unresolved. For me the Dodge/Chrysler dealership is the only show in town and the next closest is about 40 miles away. I'll be replacing the egr valve on my truck myself, considering it preventetive maintainence at his point.
#7
Hear, hear! There are almost no experienced techs anymore. If the bad part isn't jumping around and waving, there is no resolution.
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#8
#9
Maybe your fuel filter is cloging, maybe your fuel pump is week. If you had a bad sencor you would have a check engine light. Did they check the coil packs? Are the plugs you pulled out burnt? Is your MAP or MAF sencor being blocked. Did they check the timing. Also how do the battery connections look and how does the groundstrap look from engine to ground? There could be a host of problems there
I believe I will start with the EGR valve first. Thanks guys! I'll update you when I figure out more.
Darrell
#10
Todays vehicles are way complicated, but run under a various of parameters. I've had codes tell me something is wrong, but usually it ended up being something else. EGR's suck because 1 day it works, the next it doesnt. Not expierianced with cars but on buses, the new series 60 it's a huge problem.