For some reason my truck has some major rust in certain areas. I just discovered the heat shield on the passenger side of the engine is just laying there. Both studs that hold it on are gone and one of them is rusted right at the manifold meaning there isn't even a nut holding the exhaust manifold on at that point. So it looks like I will have to replace at least 2 exhaust manifold studs. I expect it's going to be a pain. Does anyone have any tips on stud extraction??

Thanks,

Steve

 

that's always a dangerous job...rusty studs was the reason i didn't put headers on my old truck...i mean... most people mention using PB blaster to loosen em up good, and then just hope it doesn't crumble

 

yea a good pentranting fluid and an easy out. and if you have to use a little heat if you have the room!

 

No new suggestions on removal just be patient so you don't make it worse. Also when you get them out, if you are keeping the truck, I would definitely go back with stainless steel.

 

It they did not break off flat then the easiest thing to do is to get a grinder and grind the bolt end flat, use a punch and center it on the bolt, hit it and then get a drill and drill a center hole and use a EZ-out extractor. PB Blaster would certainly help also. I have dont more than a few this way

 

try and get a pair of vice-grips on the stud if there is anything sticking out, but first shoot some P-oil at it. I have always squirted som P-oil a day before and about 1hr before removing header bolts. Always gave an upper hand.
Weeds suggestion will be best if the stud is mostly gone or is already flush. Drilling the stud straight IS the hardest part of all that. Very tough to do with the engine in the truck

 

On a side note, I knew A LONG time before I installed my headers that i was going to put headers on. So every time I changed oil or was under the truck I would spray my manifold bolts with penetrating oil. I guess it helped because I never had any issues getting mine out. Of course this far south we dont use salt on the roads either so I know that helps.

 

I didn't know they made stainless steel. Can those be purchased at any auto parts stores?

Unfortunately it's the rear stud with very little clearance. If I do have to drill and can figure a way to get in there with some type of 90 degree tool what is the trick with easy outs? I have tried many over the years only to break the easy out off. It seems if the bolt is rusted in easy out doesn't work.

I'm doing the job this weekend so I'll try spraying the studs every day until then.

 

I went and bought grade 8 hardware for my headers.

They make a 90* drill. If you dont have one, go rent or buy one and take it back when you are done. As for the EZ outs, ive never had a problem with them but I get mine from work and they (I assume) are industrial types.

 

Update. Good news and bad news. I started soaking the studs several days before the job and the day before I decided to get a jump on it by cracking loose any that I could. All came loose except one which I thought was but it turned out it just broke off even with the block. The next day I removed the manifold. I re sprayed the two rusted off bolts and was able to remove one with my fingers and the other with much patients and a pair of vice grips. That left the one that broke off as I tried to remove it. Unfortunately I only had 4" clearance between it an the frame. The only tool I could get in there was a dremel with a 90 degree attachment. After spending a half an hour I was only 1/16" drilled into the stud so I gave up and re assembled with new studs and gasket. The broken stud was the second from the rear so it had another stud very close to it and the replacement gasket is much thicker than stock. It isn't leaking right now so I hope it holds. If not it will pretty much require an engine pull to fix.