Alarm & Parking Lights Wiring 08 Ram
#1
Alarm & Parking Lights Wiring 08 Ram
I have a alarm installed on my truck and i want to switch it from blinking my headlights to the parking lamps, so that i can install my HID lights and not worry about them blinking.
Currently the alarm is connected to white/lt.green wire under the dash. My research has shown that i need to connect it to a wht/gry and wht/ylw wires to have them activate the parking lights instead. I run into a few complications doing this.
1. I can only find the right wht/gry wire under the dash, where is the why/ylw, are those right ? I assume one is for each side ?
2. The alarm system has only one wire for light output, i don't think i can just tie the wht/ylw & why/gry to the alarm wire ?
Any advice would be helpful.
Pete
Currently the alarm is connected to white/lt.green wire under the dash. My research has shown that i need to connect it to a wht/gry and wht/ylw wires to have them activate the parking lights instead. I run into a few complications doing this.
1. I can only find the right wht/gry wire under the dash, where is the why/ylw, are those right ? I assume one is for each side ?
2. The alarm system has only one wire for light output, i don't think i can just tie the wht/ylw & why/gry to the alarm wire ?
Any advice would be helpful.
Pete
#2
Wt/yw and wt/gy are in the engine comparment behind the fuse panel box. That box that holds the fuses is a series of computer boards and deciphers and seperates the signals that go out. The wt/lt.green from the firewall forward is actually the reverse light trigger...go figure..So, don NOT go strictly by wire colors as there are multiples of the same colors that control more than just one ouput after they go through the canbus integrated module..such as...wt/yl is also used to control the Fogs but it's a diff wt/yl wire. You need to flip up the fuse panel box and tap the wire there or at the headlight connector itself. When you flip up the fuse box, the large Black connector (they are all color coded) is 2nd from the bottom. wt/yl will be top row and 2nd over from left andf wt/gy will be top row 4th over from left. Those are the Ouput signals and is what you want.
I was just in there yesterday and have schematics in front of me as I type.
You sure your parking lamps don't flash with your heads? Just move the T-tap from the wt/lt.gn to under the fuse box and you'll be good to go. Just make sure you use a volt meter to double check the wires.
**Just checked schematics again and it appears that the Right Highbeam has a wt/gy ouput as well so I would def use a multimeter to check for proper voltages when you turn the parking lights on.
I was just in there yesterday and have schematics in front of me as I type.
You sure your parking lamps don't flash with your heads? Just move the T-tap from the wt/lt.gn to under the fuse box and you'll be good to go. Just make sure you use a volt meter to double check the wires.
**Just checked schematics again and it appears that the Right Highbeam has a wt/gy ouput as well so I would def use a multimeter to check for proper voltages when you turn the parking lights on.
Last edited by dirtydog; 06-20-2010 at 08:47 AM.
#3
Ok, so if those two wires i need are in the engine compartment i will need to extend them through the firewall.
The questions becomes is how do i tie both of those wires into the single wire from the alarm output ? I don't think its proper for me to basically tie wht/ylw & wht/gry together ?
Thanks
Pete
The questions becomes is how do i tie both of those wires into the single wire from the alarm output ? I don't think its proper for me to basically tie wht/ylw & wht/gry together ?
Thanks
Pete
#4
i'm pretty sure you can tie into parking lights at the light switch with negative pulse and a resistor and not go through the firewall to the positive switch that is in the fuse box.. and to tie two wires together like that you would diode isolate to stop any backfeed from happening...
but why are we talking about "proper" when T-Taps are being used??? Solder is the way to go
but why are we talking about "proper" when T-Taps are being used??? Solder is the way to go