Motor Swap Advice - first time engine swap
#12
I just swapped my old engine with 158,768 miles for a like new both '03. I used square plastic ziploc containers that I had from an old factory job and put the bolts from different parts in there and used masking tape to label. That made it super easy when putting things back together.
If you have a/c you'll want to get that discharged before you start. I drained the cooling system and then just moved the tranny cooler out of the way. The manual I have said you don't have to remove the a/c lines, but I took out all the coolers in the front of the truck for more room and took the top crossbar off to make it easier to pull the engine.
In the manual I have it also said to pull the engine up and out of the cradle like mounts, but I just took off the 8 bolts for the engine mounts right off the engine block and it made it so the engine kinda slid forward to separate it from the transmission and found that a lot easier. There are 4 on each side, with 2 in front and 2 behind the cradle like mounts.
This is a good time to check your hoses when you have the engine out and also put in new plugs and torque them to spec on the new engine while it is out so it is a lot easier to work on the spark plugs that way. You may also want to check the torque on your knock sensors while the engine is out of the truck so they are easy to get to. There should be one on each side on the lower half of the block.
Also you might want to mark your hood so it is a little easier to line it up when you go to put it back on. Take your time and don't get frustrated, if you do, just take a break and gather your thoughts and go back at it.
If you have a/c you'll want to get that discharged before you start. I drained the cooling system and then just moved the tranny cooler out of the way. The manual I have said you don't have to remove the a/c lines, but I took out all the coolers in the front of the truck for more room and took the top crossbar off to make it easier to pull the engine.
In the manual I have it also said to pull the engine up and out of the cradle like mounts, but I just took off the 8 bolts for the engine mounts right off the engine block and it made it so the engine kinda slid forward to separate it from the transmission and found that a lot easier. There are 4 on each side, with 2 in front and 2 behind the cradle like mounts.
This is a good time to check your hoses when you have the engine out and also put in new plugs and torque them to spec on the new engine while it is out so it is a lot easier to work on the spark plugs that way. You may also want to check the torque on your knock sensors while the engine is out of the truck so they are easy to get to. There should be one on each side on the lower half of the block.
Also you might want to mark your hood so it is a little easier to line it up when you go to put it back on. Take your time and don't get frustrated, if you do, just take a break and gather your thoughts and go back at it.
Last edited by BobConley; 06-29-2010 at 03:47 AM.
#13
#14
I need some help in way over my head
I have a 2003 lifted big horn with a manual 4.7 motor bought a 2003 bighorn with a 4.7 auto to put in my truck my problem is the tranny from my truck won't seem to bolt up is there a adapter I can buy to make this work any help is greatly appreciated and needed
#15
#16
the new motor was a automatic transmission and my truck is a manual transmission and the first problem I had was the driverside motor mount were different for each motor so the bellhousing was hitting the motormount bracket stopping it from being able to bolt up by about a inch so once I sorted that out it was maybe I should take some pics I'm not the best when it comes to explaining this