Going thru same problem is your truck fixed now?

2011 Avenger

Regards.

 

Sorry you are going through this problem. Yes, my truck seems to be OK now. I'll send you a PM with my number for details of what worked.

 

I have similar problems. ETC, codes (622, 2503, 2108, 2138, 2106). I replaced the plugs (60K - correction.. I have 74K) and cleaned the throttle body. Replaced the battery, air filter. My volt meter starts off low and after running for 1-3 minutes, drops to zero. Battery seems like good voltage with a DVM. Voltage goes up to 14-ish with throttle. I have not reset any codes yet but I think some of my problems are gone. Mine was falling into the 20mph mode and idling like crap (this part I think is gone).... I haven't had the ETC light after the plugs, air filter and throttle body work.

Based on what I read here on the forum, I think my alternator is bad... that's next. I will have it bench tested at Autozone.

So what was wrong with yours?

 

Bottom line on my problem was a bad PCM killed by an electrical short at a whopping 88K miles. The component within the PCM that generates the 5V Supply for the TPS crapped out throwing the P1618 code. This triggered the Forced Shutdown (P2106), which basically makes the truck undriveable. My problem was several-fold as the dealers were not able to readily identify which 5V Primary circuit was bad and why it went bad. Also, a new PCM for my truck was out of production at the time (so a new one from Chrysler was not an option - a used one would have the wrong VIN and fail inspection). So, the dealer sent it to a rebuilder (that got sold and bought while in possession of my PCM). The new owners of the rebuilding outfit then lost my PCM, but finally found it. Got back the rebuilt PCM, it worked initially and then crapped out shortly afterward (set P1618 / P2106 codes again). So something was causing the PCM to fail. Finally, the dealer pinned out the engine comparment harness and found short at A/C compressor clutch pigtail and fixed it. Rebuilt PCM still bad, but dealer consulted with an outside (non-dealer) computer "expert" in the region for their advice (trying to save time by not having the PCM sent to the rebuilder again). The "expert" recommended they simply tap into one of the other good 5V primary circuits (Crank, cam or MAPP on the '03) and splice that into the TPS 5V supply pigtail (The sensor doesn't care where the 5V signal comes from as long as it gets the steady 5V signal). Since doing so, the truck has functioned normally.

I have left out many details of the ordeal including a different dealer, several tows back and forth from failed repairs and months of waiting. And my wallet was about $1500 lighter after all this ($200 diagnostic fee and reprogram scam at the first dealer, another $100 diagnostic fee at another dealer, unnecessary O2 sensor at the second dealer, tow truck bills). Had any dealer been diligent in their diagnostics (check for shorts in wiring, HELLO??) and Chrysler supported its products with new OEM parts, a new PCM and a repaired short would have been the quicker fix at probably half the cost. Now I have a crippled, rebuilt PCM (the dealer also damaged one of the PCM connectors, didn't fix it and never told me!) and a rogue blue wire running through the engine compartment spliced into the the harness near the PCM connectors to the TPS pigtail. VERY EXPENSIVE little wire. And I owe it all to someone that didn't even work for Chrysler - the dealer had basically given up (hope they gave the "expert" a cut for the consultation).

Anyway, I am no fan of computer controlled vehicles (or MOPAR for that matter). Not reliable and terribly difficult to diagnose / repair (even with the assistance of a high dollar, fancy OEM diagnostic computer).

I still do not trust the truck and do not travel very far from home with it. I take it to work every now and again and maybe use it for other nearby chores (I've put less than 12K miles on it since then). I only kept it because I use it plow my driveways. When we travel, I take our Hyundai (I used to take the Dodge on many trips). How sad is that?

Good luck with your problem.

 

Mine is fixed too, gave up - got lots of feedback from kuhnzoo.

Took it to local shop, found wiring issue and fixed it for $100.

Got lucky after throwing 300 in parts at it.

 

Glad to hear your's is fixed and it was not as pricey. I think alot of these "mystery" problems are probably due to wiring problems (shorts, chaffs, etc.) or wiring problems that lead to other problems (failed PCMs, etc.). The dealers don't seem to look for a wiring problem first before throwing parts at it for repairs. I know that running down a short or other wire problem is unpleasant and not as easy as replacing parts, but my experince has shown (and listening to others) that this is more likely the problem than bad sensors or components.

Oh well, nice to hear that your vehicle is fixed. I hope it stays that way.

 

I replaced my alternator after having it bench tested at Advance Auto. It turns out that my truck with 74K already had a replacement (rebuilt) Bosch 132 amp alternator. I replaced with same and all of problems seem gone. My best guess is that I had at least two problems. The old plugs were in "crap shape" (huge gap from wear - probably original) which made it run bad. The alternator had lost a diode or field coil. Although it was charging some, the truck didn't like it in it's hobbled state. It was probably operating at 2/3 capacity (at best).

I flipped my key 3 times (is that like clicking your heals three times?) and immediately got a "done" message - No Codes! halleluiah. The truck seems to run very well.
Summary of what I did:
Battery: ~150 bucks
Alternator ~150 bucks
K&N Air filter: ~50 bucks
Plugs: ~25 bucks
Cleaned Throttle body: Free-ish
anti-seize for plugs and alternator bolts and brackets
silicon for plug boots

I was a little surprised that pulling the battery cable cleared my codes. I had read elsewhere on this site that 03 or 04 and earlier of this generation would not reset codes with battery terminal removal and an OBD device would be necessary to do this.

I'm back to liking my truck with a bit of trepidation.

 

RWD 2003 2500 Ram Quad SLT 5.7 Hemi (everything stock) truck almost new still when problem happened.

Symptoms: Racing Idle or Stall (yep it's another safety issue since power steering is lost on a stall), ETC light on dash illuminated. Can't remember if any codes were set or which ones. Must have been. If I recall the TSB was for codes.

Fix: Repair wiring near top of A/C compressor and pull back wires so they no longer touch the A/C compressor pulley. It was a short to ground on the reference voltage wire for the ETC. The wire was touching the A/C pulley. Clear the codes. Buy the 200 dollar scan tool. It will pay for itself really fast. The A/C and the ETC share a reference voltage circuit there.

Story: Went out one morning and started the truck and noticed the RPMs going wildly up and down. It was intermittent so it went away. While driving the truck stalled, but then started again. Geez. Intermittent: think wires first!

I researched the issue and found a TSB about reprogramming the PCM (Next Generation Controller or NGC). Took it to the dealer, and they ignorantly followed my advice about reprogramming. They should have found the problem, if they were any good, just by visually inspecting the wires under the hood). Problem came back so I got some wiring diagrams from All Data. I located the location of some of the harness for the circuit and readily noticed some damage at the location that the A/C (sensor I believe) shares reference voltage with the ECT and saw that the factory irresponsibly routed the harness in such a way as to allow the wires to rub on the A/C pulley which caused a short to ground with the ETC reference voltage and the entire problem. I took it back to the dealer (still under full warranty), had them repair the wire and pull back the harness so it could not rub any more. Problem never came back because this was the correct fix. It took me a couple of minutes under the hood to find the problem just by checking the wires under the hood. (After I began investigating the wiring circuit for the ECT. Studying the diagrams took a bit longer) So if you have these symptoms, the first thing you should look at is the wires near the top of your A/C compressor. Service writer gave me some BS like "Stuff happens." There is absolutely no excuse for the factory to route the wires so close to the A/C pulley. To pull back the wires so this will not happen again either a plastic tie or electrical tape will do. After a while I suppose the heat from the engine compartment will shape the wires too.

Everything above is about back then. Truck now has 83,000 miles.

 

Glad i found this have been fighting this issue since i bought the truck to no avail. I dont seem to have a wire that would touch the pulley but i will be inspecting the harness closely this weekend.