yes i have an lsd. i will just take off the cover and check it all out and change the fluid too. Where is the best place to get this pinion seal? dealership or autozone or something. Any special tools i will need?

 

When I changed my 3.92's to the 4.56's the pinion seal that came included with the master install kit (Timken) leaked right off the bat, probably with-in 50 miles....

So I went and bought one at Autozone (It was a single lip seal, not sure of brand)...... It began leaking after about a hundred miles

So My Brother brought me a "Mopar" seal home from his Dealership... It too leaked.

I began thinking there was something wrong with the yoke so I took it in for a warranty repair but nobody couldn't find anything obviously wrong...
One of the guys at my Bro's steelership (He rebuilds the 9.25's all the time) mentioned that the pinion seals are sometimes pretty difficult to get completely sealed...
sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you don't.

He suggested I buy one of the "Double Lip" seals from Napa... I did and haven't had a problem since....... My gears have now been in there 12,000 miles.

Just food for thought. You may have to try a couple seals before you find one that actually seals 100%.....


If you decide to change the Fluid out... I recommend Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140 SVOQT-EA https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/de...spx?zo=1835883
You Change it now & don't have to worry about it again for a long long time...100K+/-. It's good stuff. I personally have it in all my vehicles.

Good luck..... If there is anything I can do to help just let me know...

 

Interesting Point as the Dealership one I got has dampened slightly after one year, Double lip seals help alot. They saved my *** when I was into the Modded Classic Mini Scene, it wasn't until I moved back to Canada that I was able to buy a double lipped (from California) and that Car became leak free, unlike its English Brothers.
So I will check out the Napa HD seal and use it in my upcoming re-gearing mod later this year, Thanks!

 

Did you do the 500 mile break-in and flush the fluid after that? That's the critical break in period. I changed my diff oil when my truck hit 1,000miles as it seems very few guys do when they buy their trucks.

Amsoil may claim 100kmi for light duty, but I dnno if I would even go 50kmi unless it's all highway and zero tow/hauling going on. Otherwise 30kmi is what I would reccomend with ANY Synthetic for the rear diff. There's no filter to grab all the shavings and wear debris as they just keep circulating through the surfaces of the gears and bearings. The magnet doesn't even count for that matter as it only grabs particulates that pass directly by the magnet. I'm sure there are shavings inside the axle tubes that never gets picked up. Also, you need to think about thermal breakdown as the rear diff gets very hot. I have changed quite a few diff fluids out. Not one truck had rear diff fluid that looked healthy after 50kmi. All had black fluid, very dirty fluid, heavily sparkling fluid or had excessive amounts of moisture inside.

Just a reccomendation.
Double lip seals are the way to go if you have an interchange number.

 

Come on man, why do you want to bust *****....Common sense and the gear manufacturer dictates the normal gear break-in procedure...... He is not swapping gears Dirty Dog, He's only fixing a pinion seal leak....

If the discussion had been on the proper break in procedure on new gears in terms of when to do the first gear oil change I would have responded differently dirty dog.

His gears are fully broken in so he can SAFELY install Amsoil Severe gear and never have to change it again for 100,000 miles....

I'm not going to get into Amsoil Bashing here... If you don't like Amsoil, that's your business. However lab tests show Amsoil is by far the best Synthetic oil on the market, read the facts....

As for my personal truck.... The one you see below.... The Diff oil was changed at 500 miles when the truck was new. The gear swap was done at 28,000 miles and it was filled with NON-Synthetic, Mopar petroleum based gear oil to speed the break-in process and properly heat cycle the new gears.
1000 miles later the diff was thoroughly cleaned by my Brother at Lakeland Dodge and refilled with Amsoil Severe Gear 75-140.

I got tired of the stupid rubber plug in the cover leaking all the time so last month I purchased a new Diff cover with a threaded fill plug to fix the issue.... When I removed the OEM cover to install the new one after 12,000 miles on this oil .... The Fluid was completely void of any "Sparkling" metal or discoloration.... It was very clean with no signs of gear wear at all. It looked like it did when we put it in. The Magnet was also clean and void of any foreign material.

Here's a test you can do at home.... Pick up a laser thermometer... Go drive your truck with the normal Synthetic fluids you typically use.... As soon as you get home use the laser thermometer and pull temps from all your major components.... Rear diff, Transmission pan, Transmission case, Oil Pan, head, block Ect. Ect.

Now swap all your fluids over to Amsoil and go do the same exact drive all over again at the same time of day as your first test and pull temperatures from the same exact components.... You'll be shocked at how much of a lower temperature everything runs with Amsoil in it.

I was personally convinced after seeing my transmission temperature drop 35+ degrees and all I did was change the brand of fluid I put in it.

But again, it's all in personal preference.... No matter what brand we use...Synthetic or petroleum based oil, doesn't matter, these trucks will easily last 100-200,000 miles if they are cared for...

Cheers!

 

Your Quite Welcome!

 

I wasn't trying to bust anyone's ***** here, just trying to make sure guys get descent info is all. I even underlined the letter "I" to show it was my opinion and reccomendation. Some people take and run with the first thing they read.
I had only mentioned it and asked because it's what you had offered up for info. I was only trying to help and make sure YOU were armed with the facts to keep your ride going.

I'll agree..Amsoil is a fantastic Synthetic oil, but even their website reccomends only running 50kmi if towing/hauling(severe) and 100kmi for light duty(normal)HERE
I dunno why you think I am against their oil??? I never said such a thing. I'd put ANY Synthetic oil in my truck EXCEPT Castrol synthetic which is just a glorified conventional oil.

 

LoL, This is humorous... This discussion/Thread started off talking about this gentleman's pinion seal leaking.. You took it somewhere else...

He asked where to get a good seal... I replied with "Napa" based on my experience with 4 or 5 different seals that leaked/seeped after my gear swap.

I also did say Amsoil Severe Gear will go 100,000 miles ..... Because that is Exactly what Amsoil recommends for all "NORMAL USE" light duty trucks...
A half ton or RAM 1500 is considered a light duty truck.

Using the truck for Normal towing and hauling up to the vehicles rated limits all fall under Normal light duty use and are not considered "severe".

Now if you want to exceed the vehicle's rated limits and pull a 10 or 15,000 lb trailer with a 1/2 ton truck well then that falls into totally different categories.....Severe use and just plain stupidity.... Then yes, you'll have to change fluids more frequently because you'd be pushing the vehicle beyond it's half ton mechanical abilities which subsequently it was not designed for.

As for my ride......I'm a retired ASE certified Chrysler Master technician with a younger brother who still actively works as a Tech 3 at our local Dodge Dealership (Combined we have close to 30 years of Chrysler Experience) I own a Chrysler DRB III (StarSCAN) and I have PC access to Chrysler's TSB and Recall database. I also have partial access to Ford's Oasis system so I believe I have access to some very reliable manufacturer specific information to keep MY ride's going.....

This current Ram is my 6th Ram since 1993 so If something on one of these trucks could fail...It's probably failed on me and I've fixed it.

We sold our Auto Transport Business last year which equaled 4 Dodge trucks and 4 53' trailers.
All of my previous trucks (gas and diesel) pulled a 53' "wedge" triple car trailer... During this period we exceeded 200,000 miles on all the previous trucks before I traded or sold them so I feel I do get my money's worth from Dodge trucks....... My 93 Cummins Dually had 340,000 on it when I finally junked it due to rust..... The bed was literally falling off but it still ran good.

Again, they are good vehicles and last you a very long time if you take care of them.

It's the forth of July and I am going to enjoy it with some freshly grilled burgers.....

Rich, You Have a nice day.

 

I just went through this. I got the seal from Napa. It started leaking not long after. I was coming back on the highway from Minnesota to Ohio and had to add fluild everytime I got gas.

I replaced it with a seal made by Timken. The rubber durometer of the Napa seal seemed to be harder than the Timken seal. the Timken seal fit tighter on the yoke in a test fit prior to installing it. So far it's seems to be hold up. It's to bad that the under side of my truck is now a mess from the thing throwing the oil all over.
I got the Timken seal from AutoZone.
My truck is a Dakota 1999 with 5.2 V8.

 

I upgraded my gears to 4.56s when my truck had 19k miles on it. The shop noted that my rear seal had already started to "seep" a little bit.

Master install kit came with a Timken seal along with Timken bearings.

I'll usually check the seal about every 5k miles (oil change interval) and so far there is no sign of any leak at 48k miles (or almost 30k on the new seal).

So I'd say from personal experience that I gotta agree with stvmike and if you can find the Timken seal by itself, get one...