I'm new here so sorry if this is not posted in the right area. I have a 2004 dodge Ram 4x4 quad. I'm replacing a hub assembly on the drivers side. I have removed the wheel, brakes, rotor and the large axel nut. I need to remove the 3 bolts on the backside of the hub assembly. Here's my problem..I can't find a tool to get in there and reach them. Sockets can't make the angle due to a metal flange type thing at the end of the half shaft (CV boot's connected to it). Is there a special tool for this or do I have to remove that axel to gain axcess to these 3 bolts. And help is greatly appreciated. This is my only vehicle and it sits on jack stands in pieces.

Kevin

 

Usually I can turn the spindles one way and get two out of three. The third I usually have to get with a closed end wrench

 

Thanks,

I have tried that but for the life of me can not get the angle on the bolt. Does the metal cv boot slide back to give me more room. I've read one post that apparently was from dodge service that said you had to undo the tie rod and also the upper control arm, then lower the spindel so that the axel comes out. Seems like alot of work to change a hub unit. I thought maybe an offset box wrench might do it but havn't got one yet.

 

Well I have a 2wd so I have no CVs so mine may just be easier than yours because of that. Maybe someone else will chime in who is 4wd and help

 

If you pop out the balljoint and slide the cv shaft back a bit that should give you enough room to get in there. Might have to give the shaft a whack with a hammer/punch if it's rusted

 

Thank you,

Now are you saying pop the ball joint on the upper control arm? Here's some instructions I found but not sure this is the easiest way to do it. Plus I have no idea what this special tool is.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/3...HubBearing.jpg

 

just remove the nut at the top of the Upper Control arm that holds the spindle to it. Once your remove that nut, smack the top of bolt with a hammer, just hard enough to pop it loose. That will allow you to move the spindle around quite a bit without needing to remove the ball joint with a puller or anything

 

Just whack the steering knuckle near to the tie rod end ball joint with a LARGE hammer after loosening the castle nuts on the bottoms of both the steering kuckle and the outter tie rod end.
A couple of sharp hard taps/hits on the knuckle, will make the whole top ball joint pop off the top of the steering knuckle and also the tie rod end.
But first, Remove all the brake hardware such as pads/calipers/caliper adaptor bracket.
Remove the large 33mm axle nut from the wheel hub.
The center shaft that this nut fits on is the axle/front CV shaft from the front axle.
This will either be abled to be pulled out from the back side....or a little tap from the front to break away all the crud will help it along.
Now, this is a little tricky I admit but, if you turn the hub one way or the other, there is JUST enough room to slide out the poutboard CV shaft out of the hub assy.
I have done this like half a dozen times and it DOES work.
When you have doen this, there's more than enough room to wrench on those hub nuts.
Hope this helps ya' bud???
Take your time and it will come good for you.
Post up how you do.
Al.

 

Thank you everyone for all the help. It's been along time since I"ve worked on my own vehicles but with the economy saving a buck or two definately helps. I'm just not positive on all the part names anymore. From what I'm understanding I need to remove the nut at the top where the upper control arm connects to the steering knuckle and then the one toward the front of the truck where the tie rod connects to the steering knuckle? I allready removed brake, axel nut, etc yesterday so that part is done. One stupid question...I have my jack stand underneath the lower control arm pretty close to the knuckle. Is this the correct place or is there somewhere else it needs to be.

Thanks

 

If your jack stand is underneath the steering knuckle itself, that's not good.
If it's on the lower control arm as it leaves the front axel cross member, that's OK.
You need to position your stand so the the entire steering knuckle can be articulated into different positions to allow access to your wheel hub bolts.
I usually just put my axle stand underneath the front cross member closest to the end your working on.
Just make sure it's safe and secure.
Al.