73 K ....change tranny fluid or not ?
Why are you guys aying DOn't flush? Drop and drain only gets 40% of the fluid!
FYI...I purchased my beater '97 Exploder with 87kmi on it and did EXACTLY as I stated above in my previous post and haven't had a lick of trouble! I did the same for my previous beater that had 120kmi on it and just did my wif'es Sonata a few weeks ago that has 68kmi on it.
NOT flushing it this early WILL cause gunk build-up since ther is a majority(60%) of OLD fluid still in there. The flushing hooror stories are from guys that waited too long and neglected their rides.
But hey, it's your truck, do as you wish. I've done multiple flushes over the course of 12yrs and have NEVER had any issu'es because I don't wait until the fluid is toast!
If this guy waits until next time to flush, he will be SOL and likely have sludge in his valves where it will cause a problem while flushing.
FLushing is NOT the problem. The problem is as previously stated...Lack of preventative maintenance which doing just a pan drop is! Don't get me wrong, it's better than nothing, but all your doing there is mixing new fluid with old. New fluid mixed with old does not give near the same protection as new fluid since the old fluid has already begun to break down.
The filters are not the issue at 60kmi. Those can handle even 100kmi without being changed as long as the fluid is kept clean. It's the fluid is what really needs to be done here. Fluid keeps the transmission going, keeps it cool and is what extends it's life. You can change out filters all you want, but the fact is a transmission CAN run without any filter material, but cannot run without fluid. (this is looking past the fact that the filters are needed to actually pick up the fluid)
Abarmy...Mopar ATF+4 is generic grade ATF+3 with Lubrizol additive mixed in where as aftermarket ATF+4 is Synthetic. Chrysler made a product that saved them money while retaining extreme similarities to Synthetic fluids. So basically, they charge you the same price for their fluid as Valvoline and Mobil 1 do for their True Synthetics. Mopar's ATF+4 is still a very high quality base fluid that is meant to last upwards of 100kmi in most auto's. Certainly trucks won't fit that bill.
FYI...I purchased my beater '97 Exploder with 87kmi on it and did EXACTLY as I stated above in my previous post and haven't had a lick of trouble! I did the same for my previous beater that had 120kmi on it and just did my wif'es Sonata a few weeks ago that has 68kmi on it.
NOT flushing it this early WILL cause gunk build-up since ther is a majority(60%) of OLD fluid still in there. The flushing hooror stories are from guys that waited too long and neglected their rides.
But hey, it's your truck, do as you wish. I've done multiple flushes over the course of 12yrs and have NEVER had any issu'es because I don't wait until the fluid is toast!
If this guy waits until next time to flush, he will be SOL and likely have sludge in his valves where it will cause a problem while flushing.
FLushing is NOT the problem. The problem is as previously stated...Lack of preventative maintenance which doing just a pan drop is! Don't get me wrong, it's better than nothing, but all your doing there is mixing new fluid with old. New fluid mixed with old does not give near the same protection as new fluid since the old fluid has already begun to break down.
The filters are not the issue at 60kmi. Those can handle even 100kmi without being changed as long as the fluid is kept clean. It's the fluid is what really needs to be done here. Fluid keeps the transmission going, keeps it cool and is what extends it's life. You can change out filters all you want, but the fact is a transmission CAN run without any filter material, but cannot run without fluid. (this is looking past the fact that the filters are needed to actually pick up the fluid)
Abarmy...Mopar ATF+4 is generic grade ATF+3 with Lubrizol additive mixed in where as aftermarket ATF+4 is Synthetic. Chrysler made a product that saved them money while retaining extreme similarities to Synthetic fluids. So basically, they charge you the same price for their fluid as Valvoline and Mobil 1 do for their True Synthetics. Mopar's ATF+4 is still a very high quality base fluid that is meant to last upwards of 100kmi in most auto's. Certainly trucks won't fit that bill.
Last edited by dirtydog; Sep 5, 2010 at 09:04 AM.
When I said don't flush I meant don't take it to one of the shops that just hooks it to a machine and can dislodge gunk from the bottom of the pan and flush it through the tranny, I think that is what everyone else meant as well. If you look at the link the OP posted it appears he plans on flushing w/ the method you described after he has already dropped the pan and cleaned it out.
When I said don't flush I meant don't take it to one of the shops that just hooks it to a machine and can dislodge gunk from the bottom of the pan and flush it through the tranny, I think that is what everyone else meant as well. If you look at the link the OP posted it appears he plans on flushing w/ the method you described after he has already dropped the pan and cleaned it out.
Good luck OP
Last edited by dirtydog; Sep 5, 2010 at 10:29 AM.
thanks for all the advice guys... I found a link to a DIY tutorial, so I be attempting this for the first time myself : I will definitely do a drop and drain
http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/
I read where torquing down the bolts sometimes they can break, mine already show a good deal of surface rust and in the tutorial the guy broke ( I think) 3, where can I buy a set of OEM bolts for the trans pan ??
any recommendations on ATF +4 fluid, whatever Advanced auto part shas so spend more $$ and go with something else ??
http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/
I read where torquing down the bolts sometimes they can break, mine already show a good deal of surface rust and in the tutorial the guy broke ( I think) 3, where can I buy a set of OEM bolts for the trans pan ??
any recommendations on ATF +4 fluid, whatever Advanced auto part shas so spend more $$ and go with something else ??
I would go with any name brand ATF 4 fluid. I would stay away from the house brands though, it isn't like oil where there is an API cert. that has to be passed in order to label their product. Valvoline, Pennzoil, RP, etc. would all be solid choices.
Need to clarify - 17 quarts, correct?
The parts store guy quoted that I'd need 6.5 quarts, but I don't think he was taking into account that I'd be draining the torque converter as well as the pan.
The parts store guy quoted that I'd need 6.5 quarts, but I don't think he was taking into account that I'd be draining the torque converter as well as the pan.
Phoee! ATF +4 is ATF +4 When I did mine with Valvoline, I bought nine quarts and used seven. When you remove the old flat filter, be sure to remove the seal. A seal puller is a very useful item.








