3rd Gen Ram Tech 2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

73 K ....change tranny fluid or not ?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 04:07 AM
  #11  
abarmby's Avatar
abarmby
Champion
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 1
From: North Eastern England
Default

Gotta' be Mopar AFT+4.
DO NOT use anything else.
Royal Purple do a replacement....but save your $'s as Mpoar ATF+4 is very high quality anyway.
Al.
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #12  
dirtydog's Avatar
dirtydog
Moderate User
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Default

Why are you guys aying DOn't flush? Drop and drain only gets 40% of the fluid!

FYI...I purchased my beater '97 Exploder with 87kmi on it and did EXACTLY as I stated above in my previous post and haven't had a lick of trouble! I did the same for my previous beater that had 120kmi on it and just did my wif'es Sonata a few weeks ago that has 68kmi on it.
NOT flushing it this early WILL cause gunk build-up since ther is a majority(60%) of OLD fluid still in there. The flushing hooror stories are from guys that waited too long and neglected their rides.
But hey, it's your truck, do as you wish. I've done multiple flushes over the course of 12yrs and have NEVER had any issu'es because I don't wait until the fluid is toast!
If this guy waits until next time to flush, he will be SOL and likely have sludge in his valves where it will cause a problem while flushing.
FLushing is NOT the problem. The problem is as previously stated...Lack of preventative maintenance which doing just a pan drop is! Don't get me wrong, it's better than nothing, but all your doing there is mixing new fluid with old. New fluid mixed with old does not give near the same protection as new fluid since the old fluid has already begun to break down.
The filters are not the issue at 60kmi. Those can handle even 100kmi without being changed as long as the fluid is kept clean. It's the fluid is what really needs to be done here. Fluid keeps the transmission going, keeps it cool and is what extends it's life. You can change out filters all you want, but the fact is a transmission CAN run without any filter material, but cannot run without fluid. (this is looking past the fact that the filters are needed to actually pick up the fluid)

Abarmy...Mopar ATF+4 is generic grade ATF+3 with Lubrizol additive mixed in where as aftermarket ATF+4 is Synthetic. Chrysler made a product that saved them money while retaining extreme similarities to Synthetic fluids. So basically, they charge you the same price for their fluid as Valvoline and Mobil 1 do for their True Synthetics. Mopar's ATF+4 is still a very high quality base fluid that is meant to last upwards of 100kmi in most auto's. Certainly trucks won't fit that bill.
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Sep 5, 2010 at 09:04 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #13  
chambers's Avatar
chambers
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: VA
Default

Originally Posted by dirtydog
Why are you guys aying DOn't flush? Drop and drain only gets 40% of the fluid!
When I said don't flush I meant don't take it to one of the shops that just hooks it to a machine and can dislodge gunk from the bottom of the pan and flush it through the tranny, I think that is what everyone else meant as well. If you look at the link the OP posted it appears he plans on flushing w/ the method you described after he has already dropped the pan and cleaned it out.
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #14  
dirtydog's Avatar
dirtydog
Moderate User
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Default

Originally Posted by chambers
When I said don't flush I meant don't take it to one of the shops that just hooks it to a machine and can dislodge gunk from the bottom of the pan and flush it through the tranny, I think that is what everyone else meant as well. If you look at the link the OP posted it appears he plans on flushing w/ the method you described after he has already dropped the pan and cleaned it out.
I got ya, but there is no need to drop the pan while full. If he does as I stated, the fluid flows as it would normally when buttoned up so there will be no gunk dislodging or anything going past the filter. Makes life a whole lot easier and def. much cleaner. Dropping a full pan is a PIA, very messy and is the hard way to go about it. It's very safe, trust me. It's not like the fluid flows backwards or anything in the method I described. The fluid gets pulled through the filter as normal and instead of getting dumped back into the trans pan, it goes into the bucket instead. Again, flow is normal.

Good luck OP
 

Last edited by dirtydog; Sep 5, 2010 at 10:29 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #15  
Nothin'_but_trucks's Avatar
Nothin'_but_trucks
Professional
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: GTMO & Carbondale, IL
Default

Originally Posted by rentprop1
thanks for all the advice guys... I found a link to a DIY tutorial, so I be attempting this for the first time myself : I will definitely do a drop and drain
http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/

I read where torquing down the bolts sometimes they can break, mine already show a good deal of surface rust and in the tutorial the guy broke ( I think) 3, where can I buy a set of OEM bolts for the trans pan ??

any recommendations on ATF +4 fluid, whatever Advanced auto part shas so spend more $$ and go with something else ??

I would go with any name brand ATF 4 fluid. I would stay away from the house brands though, it isn't like oil where there is an API cert. that has to be passed in order to label their product. Valvoline, Pennzoil, RP, etc. would all be solid choices.
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #16  
weedahoe's Avatar
weedahoe
Hall Of Fame
Hall of Fame Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
Default

I say change it. But I mean change all of it. The link link in post 9 from Rentprop is how I did mine and I used 17 qrts
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #17  
PhotogTom's Avatar
PhotogTom
Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga, TN
Default

Need to clarify - 17 quarts, correct?

The parts store guy quoted that I'd need 6.5 quarts, but I don't think he was taking into account that I'd be draining the torque converter as well as the pan.
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
weedahoe's Avatar
weedahoe
Hall Of Fame
Hall of Fame Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
Default

Yeah 17 qrts is changing everything, not just the pan
 
Reply
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:59 PM
  #19  
PhotogTom's Avatar
PhotogTom
Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga, TN
Default

Got it - thanks!
 
Reply
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #20  
MikeHTally's Avatar
MikeHTally
Champion
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,702
Likes: 2
From: N. Florida
Default

Originally Posted by abarmby
Gotta' be Mopar AFT+4.
DO NOT use anything else.
Phoee! ATF +4 is ATF +4 When I did mine with Valvoline, I bought nine quarts and used seven. When you remove the old flat filter, be sure to remove the seal. A seal puller is a very useful item.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:28 AM.