Well, it's time to do a transmission and differential flush/drain.

Is there a best way to do this? I've seen only two brands of filters for the transmission, but they ended up having the same part number. There is a Wix one, but it is about twice as much.

Any recommended ways to clean both without having to dissassemble?

Also... the seals on each end -- entering the transmission and leaving the rear diff appear to have gone out because there is a little fluid coming out of each one, wondering if it is easy enough to change out those seals or if I should have a shop do all the work.

I've downloaded the service manual, so I know how to drain the fluids, but haven't messed with taking one apart before -- wondering if there are any practices that are common while you're in there. Is it just a draining of fluid, or should I actually flush something through it?

 

I think the best way for the trans is so drop the pan, clean, and refill. There are 2 filters in there though, a cone one and a regular one. For the rear, I just pull pumpkin, clean, seal and refill. Clean it real good. And the seal your talking about I believe is the rear pinion seal, if I understand u correctly... Many of trucks blow this.. Just remember to clean real good wen putting things back together and tighten like u do wheels, a little at a time

 

best way to do tranny is take the cooler line off by the rad and have some one start the truck and have someone watching the oil once it starts coming out slowly shut the truck off should be about 8 quarts of oil if you got the hemi not sure about the other engines and there are two filters in the oil pan if its the hemi. and for the diff is it the axel seals leaking or where the drive shaft goes into the diff. best way to do that fluid is take the cover off so you can see if there are any metal filings in there.

 

To do the pinion seal which is located on the front side of the rear differential will require some knowledge. You cannot just unscrew the nut and tighten it back up or else you'll screw things up. That nut has been torqued down to a specific setting that cannot be redone unless you take your entire rear diff apart.
Follow THIS guide to help you get that done.

Pulling the seals out and installing new one's is very simple, just make sure they go in straight. Use a block of wood if you can. Getting them started straight it the hardest part.

transmission fluid. take off the return line and do as Deniss66 stated. Once the fluid spits/sputters, then the pan is empty. Now it's a piece of cake to drop it and change your filters. To do a complete flush, pour 7qts of new fluid in and repeat until the fluid spitting out is clean.

Good luck.

 

good advice, here is a tut for that.

http://www.60ateight.com/DodgeRam/

but dont snap your pan bolts like that retard did.

 

For the tranny, I did a flush using the link dirty dog provided. After doing it though, I rec only doing a pan drop for the tranny. Reason being that the two filter system does a good job of cleaning the fluid and everything in the torque converter is clean. You do need to change the filters though and there will be some fuzz in the tranny pan that got by the filters on return. Be sure to install the new flat filter in perfectly level and wiggle it in until it is flush with the tranny body before installing the mount screw. If it goes in even slightly cocked you will get air in the tranny line as this filter plugs directly into the pump. Tranny pan has a magnet to clean. Rear diff has a magnet in the bottom of the gearbox also. Gear oil change is easy. I always cover the gears with a plastic garbage bag to prevent getting RTV sealant on them (you'll need to scrape the red RTV off of the main gearbox body and cover after removing the cover). Cover has a groove around the edge, be sure to get the RTV sealant out of there. Good luck and good on you for giving this a try. Gets easier every time.