So ive been working on this recently and got far enough with it I thought i would share some pics. This is all PCV but with no joints. All pieces are welded together (not glued)

Now mine is a bit different than most because I do have a second battery on the passenger side. However, here are some pics. I have to wet sand and spray clear on it today when I get off work.

This is a 3" intake although I am going to build a few more in 3" and 4".

I might put a few on ebay and see how it works out. Anyone got a idea on a fair price?

 

As froggy always said...Bitchin!
Seems look tight yo..hahahaaa

Are you going to use a conical filter or a cylindrical one? What brand?

Af far as price. i would say it depends on the style chosen by the purchaser since after all you could make any design you wanted to. Not sure if thats something you were willing to do? I understand fitment is everything and it would be something you would have to test out on your own vehicle...
How long did it take you to fab that up hour wise?

 

That looks awesome!!! Definitely looks better than stock and probably cost a lot less than a K&N...I'd buy one.. Would you be willing to build one for my 5.9??

 

As long as the bends are simple like two 90* bends I can cut, weld, sand, fill and re-sand in about 6 hours I guess. Painting can be done by the buyer unless they want me to do it but that's several more hours do having to prime, wet sand, paint, wet sand and then clear it. That would obviously be extra st that point.

Im ordering a K&N cone filter to use on it. I've never had issues with the cheaper knock off cone filters but I chose K&N this time.

 

Go S&B Powerstack if you can afford it...lol
But seriously, they have an inverted filter area at the top to allow more airflow.
I'll PM you the link for a super cheap slightly damaged one just incase anyone gets itchy fingers on the BuyItNow button..haha

 

u making a shield too? seems like that thing will suck up alot of water...

 

I doubt much water is gonna get sucked up being directly behind the headlight. The stock scoop that is on the stock airboxes is in that same location.

 

stock one is surrounded by a box... hope it works out...

 

I've seen the DIY for the home brew CAI but I wanna know what the differences are in building this one because it looks alot cleaner.

Materials list and just some instructions would be great. So that I build my own. Thanks

 

PM sent

THX Dirty. Are they a good company?

Dont see a need for a shield. Guys have been doing home brew PVC like these for a while and no issue with water. This is no different but is just more clean looking. I for one do not like the pieces glued together and joints showing. Several other guys have made comments about using chit pipe on a truck. The joints do make it look cheap and tacky (although still work). So this is a refined look and a cleaner look

Thats right, look at the stock housing setup and there is a big opening with an outward radius right there. Any moisture that does get it will be in the form of mist which would still be getting suck up in the stock system as well. The engine can burn off humidity and mist but not solid water

again as said above

Thats just the thing about it, it is more clean looking. As I said earlier, it will function the same as one glued together but looks better. Material list? What ever angled joints you want and a stick of pipe. Thats the cheap part. But the welder I use is a Leister TRIAC located HERE. I worked with cheaper units and they are too unpredictable and not as precise. They will overheat the plastic and deform it or burn it. Burning PVC puts off deadly fumes (just like welding galvanized metal) so you want to make sure you are using a quality welder than you can control the heat and not burn the PVC and emit deadly fumes. So I CAUTION you strongly if you are serious thinking about it.

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Someone brought to my attention yesterday that there are cheap ones on ebay. Yes there are. I had one for a long time but what I did notice was they are all METAL and become heat soaked. One they are heat soaked they take forever to cool down and in the mean time, what ever fresh air you are pulling in becomes heated as it picks up radiated heat from the metal "CAI".

Trust me, I went over this time and time again with my intake and numbers from my IAT. Sure you can trick the PCM into thinking the incoming air charge is 22* less than what it is by using a Power Wire but the fact remains the actual incoming air temps are more hot than being reported. This does NO good for actual air/fuel charge in the combustion chamber.