Moe's Pro and Detroit Diff questions
I was looking over at Moesperformance.com for a new differential (Skerd by all the post about the clips coming apart, and destroying itself from the inside.) I am not sure what I am supposed to replace it with. I know I want a Detroit, there is a Locker, and Tracker... But which one?
I own a 4X4, and I am not wanting to change anything in the front end.
It has the stock Diff right now, which is described by the build sheet as a 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio, Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle.
So now is this the right one for my replacement?
http://moesperformance.com/index.php...ducts_id=12389
And what else will I need? a Kit of some kind?
I am hoping while I am up in the Detroit Metro, MI area I will be able to find a good shop to do the install.
I own a 4X4, and I am not wanting to change anything in the front end.
It has the stock Diff right now, which is described by the build sheet as a 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio, Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle.
So now is this the right one for my replacement?
http://moesperformance.com/index.php...ducts_id=12389
And what else will I need? a Kit of some kind?
I am hoping while I am up in the Detroit Metro, MI area I will be able to find a good shop to do the install.
Im not sure if you can just lock front or back. I dont want to lie. But this is the locker you want. http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=621
You are going to be in deep for labor, so might as well upgrade front AND back end differentials to a 3.92 at least. You cannot change the gear ratio of back and not redo the front.
if the ONLY reason you are changing is because of the retaining clips, why not spend 30min and remove them? they serve no function other than for production line assembly
and http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=621 is a rear master install kit
You are going to be in deep for labor, so might as well upgrade front AND back end differentials to a 3.92 at least. You cannot change the gear ratio of back and not redo the front.
if the ONLY reason you are changing is because of the retaining clips, why not spend 30min and remove them? they serve no function other than for production line assembly
and http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=621 is a rear master install kit
Last edited by Matt99; Jan 11, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
I think the OP just wants to replace the carrier in the rear, if that is the case then a detroit truetrac for the chrysler 9.25 rear is what I would get. The truetrac is a gear driven lsd/posi that functions as an open diff. until one wheel loses traction. For the install you would need to get new carrier bearings, new ring gear bolts, and then pay labor for the carrier swap which would probably be at least $250. I was told that the labor would be the same for a carrier swap and new ring and pinion install and got quotes from $250-700 to regear just the rear end as my truck is 2wd. A carrier swap should be simpler than new gears b/c they shouldn't have to mess w/ the pinion at all, just pull the ring gear off the old carrier, put it on the new one and set it up to give a comparable pattern and backlash to the original carrier. As for pulling the retaining clips, I know a few people on here have done that w/o issue and it's a cheaper alternative than a new carrier.
Last edited by chambers; Jan 11, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
u have and 05....u should be runnin 3.92 gears stock...best bet is to go to the dealer and give them your vin so they can tell u what kinda of gears your runnin....but as for lockers i would put them in both axles IMO
Thanks Matt99 for that link, I got to looking at a few options. Doing the front as well, ya know going with a 4.10 gear, well that's another $300 + Labor. I was thinking like Chambers was saying, maybe just pulling the carrier. to get rid of the problem. And the DTT I hear is a great product. Would I even have to do backlash? How would a shop adjust for that anyway? Isn't the ring gear bolted straight to the carrier? I mean it can't be shimmed ...can it? I have worked with bearings and coulpings and such, in Navy Engine rooms for 20yrs. But never a truck differential. Kinda makes me think I could Do this, with a little help.
no prob....ohh wow...thats odd it came with 3.55 ... i have 3.55 in my ram and im rollin on 35's and lemme tell u i dislike these gears...i wanna get 4.10 put in also
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Thanks Matt99 for that link, I got to looking at a few options. Doing the front as well, ya know going with a 4.10 gear, well that's another $300 + Labor. I was thinking like Chambers was saying, maybe just pulling the carrier. to get rid of the problem. And the DTT I hear is a great product. Would I even have to do backlash? How would a shop adjust for that anyway? Isn't the ring gear bolted straight to the carrier? I mean it can't be shimmed ...can it? I have worked with bearings and coulpings and such, in Navy Engine rooms for 20yrs. But never a truck differential. Kinda makes me think I could Do this, with a little help.
Backlash is a combination of shimming the carrier and the pinion. Yes the Ring gear is bolted directly to the carrier and no the ring gear is not shimmed, but the carrier is. The carrier also has something called Pre-load that must be adjusted which needs a special tool. Automotive differentials are nothing to sneeze at. Not only are they mechanically involved, they require patience and experience to properly set up and measure everything out, plus you have to do a gear pattern check to verify everything is properly installed. I would really recomend NOT having your differential serviced out of town because you will never be able to go back for any meachanic related failures, plus you should be going back to them for a fluid dump and gear inspect after the first 500miles. You also ned to do a few local city drives for hot/cold cycles rather than jumping on the highway and driving 5-800 miles after a fresh install<---no good.
ALL RAMS w/20's and tow package come w/3:92's standard
NOT all 20" Rams are 3:92, some ar 3:55(mainly the older one's or one's that owners have been swapped around)







