Put in new gears, what gear oil for the 4.10s?
#1
01-24-2011 | 04:40 AM
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Put in new gears, what gear oil for the 4.10s?
Hey Guys,
Have a 2003 ram 1500 4.7L. It had 3.55 gears and I just replaced them with Motive 4.10s (I am in the process of breaking them in right now). Open differential, no LSD.
Dodge of course recommends 75w-140 synthetic oil in the differential, but the information that came with the motive gears called for 80w-90. I called a local 4x4 shop and they said if they were the ones changing the gears, they would have put in conventional 80w-90. So after installing the new gears I put in 80w-90 Lucas Heavy Duty Gear Oil and all seems to be working good right now.
Was this good oil to put in? After the break in should I go back to the synthetic stuff? If i do, how carefull do I need to be about mixing some of the residue of the dino oil left in the differential with the synthetic stuff? I did the gear change to improve my towing and plan on towing a lot?
thanks
elcliffo
Have a 2003 ram 1500 4.7L. It had 3.55 gears and I just replaced them with Motive 4.10s (I am in the process of breaking them in right now). Open differential, no LSD.
Dodge of course recommends 75w-140 synthetic oil in the differential, but the information that came with the motive gears called for 80w-90. I called a local 4x4 shop and they said if they were the ones changing the gears, they would have put in conventional 80w-90. So after installing the new gears I put in 80w-90 Lucas Heavy Duty Gear Oil and all seems to be working good right now.
Was this good oil to put in? After the break in should I go back to the synthetic stuff? If i do, how carefull do I need to be about mixing some of the residue of the dino oil left in the differential with the synthetic stuff? I did the gear change to improve my towing and plan on towing a lot?
thanks
elcliffo
#2
01-24-2011 | 08:47 AM
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From: South Georgia/East Florida
For break-in there is no need to go synthetic or really even an expensive conventional since it's going to get contaminated from the factory coating on the ring and pinion and small metal particles really fast anyway.
It's more important that you break it in slowly and properly and have the fluid changed and the gears inspected for proper pattern wear at around 500 miles.
After that, I'd probably go with a good name brand lube and if towing a lot, would use the 75w-140, otherwise the 80w-90 is fine. I'd use synthetic if I could, but if you have some brands of aftermarket LSD in there that specifically calls for conventional (as I do), then make it happy.
I actually run Lucas conventional in the rear diff as I have an Auburn LSD which hates synthetic lubes and run Royal Purple full synthetic in the front diff. I simply change the rear fluid twice as often (every 15k miles) as I do the front diff (every 30k miles).
As far as getting all the old fluid out at change time get you some old rags and wipe out the old fluid best you can. Don't get crazy but make sure you get any filings that are on the magnet...
It's more important that you break it in slowly and properly and have the fluid changed and the gears inspected for proper pattern wear at around 500 miles.
After that, I'd probably go with a good name brand lube and if towing a lot, would use the 75w-140, otherwise the 80w-90 is fine. I'd use synthetic if I could, but if you have some brands of aftermarket LSD in there that specifically calls for conventional (as I do), then make it happy.
I actually run Lucas conventional in the rear diff as I have an Auburn LSD which hates synthetic lubes and run Royal Purple full synthetic in the front diff. I simply change the rear fluid twice as often (every 15k miles) as I do the front diff (every 30k miles).
As far as getting all the old fluid out at change time get you some old rags and wipe out the old fluid best you can. Don't get crazy but make sure you get any filings that are on the magnet...
