Ford used the the 2V-4V terms for years, depending on what year and brand of outdrive that Bayliner Capri has, it could be a Ford or a Chevy.

 

I can remember back when I was younger, my dad and uncle used to take my younger brother and me to the local ramp to watch all the idiots.

Great story:

During one of our excursions we watched in awe as some shoeby pulls up with his brand new Jeep Wrangler towing a new 19ft bowrider. He backs up to the ramp, gets out of his Jeep and struts around his boat and proceeds to make sure it's ready to launch (plugs in, rope is ready to tie off, etc...) He gives his girlfriend the rope and gets back in his Jeep and give us the "I’m a professional" look. We see that he forgot to unhook the safety chain, but we didn't say anything, we wanted a show, that was why we went to the ramp.

Well, long story short, he backs up and hits the brakes to release the boat. The safety chain not being unhooked, the boat, trailer, Jeep and "professional" driver go right in the water. They didn't stop until the Jeep was submerged. My uncle pulled Jeep and trailer out of the water (with his '85 Power Wagon) and gave the dude a beer.

 

I know the new 5.0L carb motors are rated at 220hp. A venturi is the piece of specially shaped (usually)brass that looks like a tube and is narrower in the middle then on the outsides to increase the trajectory of the air flowing through it so that the air will pick up the gas from the carb jets. It's much like blowing over a coke bottle that is full to the rim in that it will blow the coke everywhere, except here it is gas. The float and needle set up keeps it full.

I just pulled my parents 04 ProCraft F/S 200 to the lake and it wasn't that bad. I definitely knew it was back there as far as throttle modulation goes, but I didn't get any sway or anything. I lost speed up some long grades, but a simple downshift solved that. Pulled no problem.

I hope you have fun on the lake. Is this your first boat? Maintenance is key here. Get a manual and give it a once over, especially if this is a used craft. The newer Alpha 1 outdrives can last a while with good maintenance. I'd recommend replacing the oil in the outdrive and lubricating the u-joint, change the outdrive oil and impeller and checking the gimble bearing for starters. You'll have lots of fun with that boat this summer. Many bad mouth Bayliner, but forget they often started with one too. The newer ones are exceptional craft and don't lwt anyone else tell you otherwise!

 

Thanks for the info on the boat. No one even on the bayliner forum can tell me this stuff. I thought that the 5.0 was somewhere over 200hp. I dont know if there is a big differnce in the new vs the older ones if they are both carburated. I know that it does the job quite well on lake. This is my first boat and the first time that I have been pulling a trailer. I am now happy that my Ram came with the trailer tow mirrors. This is my first boat, I am going to have to get a manual on it. No one on the bayliner forum can even tell me how much it weighs. Its a 19foot open bow 1988 model with a 5.0 V8 and single axle trailer. Well, I am excited, the truck looks alot better doing what a truck does best, TOW/HAUL stuff. Hey fatherkind, my Dad told me about the time that my grandpa sunk their truck in the water, he got out and didnt have the e-brake on. Well, to make a long story short, the truck sunk to 6in below the top of the cab. Hopefull the ram will not die a painfull death like that.

 

Your boat should be around 3000# dry. Then you can factor in the weight of the gas, toys, beer, etc in the boat and depending on the trailer anywhere from 600-1000# for it. You'd probably be around 4000-4500# with it fully loaded with gas, toys, etc for the weekend. I have developed a pre/post ride check to keep everything in order. Since it is a 1988 and it is new to you I'd do the following if it wasn't done prior by dealer...
1. Change engine oil
2. Change outdrive oil
3. Change outdrive impeller
4. Lube and inspect U-joints and gimble bearings
5. Pull prop and inspect for line and crap. Clean shaft and grease before reinstalling prop.
6. Change plugs, wires, cap, rotor button (depending on ignition system)
7. Adjust and grease all linkages such as controls.
8. Inspect risers and exhaust
9. Inspect and replace if necessary all belts and hoses
10. Wash and wax
11. Install a Keel Shield, trust me on this one
12. Clean and repack trailer wheel bearings, check brakes at this time if applicable.
13. Inspect and replace if necessary all trailer wiring and bulbs. A little petroleum jelly or dielectric grease on the back of every bulb can save you some headaches.
14. Replace the hydraulic trim fluid.
15. Replace power steering fluid if applicable.
16. Tighten all lines and hoses. Replace gas line if dry rotted.
17. Check water level in batteries.
18. Check all tires (incl. spare) for correct air pressure.
19. Replace thermostat

Tips:
1. Figure out how much bunk can be left out of the water so that you can drive the boat up on the trailer and memorize where that spot is.
2. Moving the drive up a little aids in low speed manuevers.
3. Disconnecting trailer lights before initial launch will increase bulb life as the hot bulbs are not placed in cool water. Don't forget to reconnect.
4. Be sure to install drain plug (I almost sank a jetski of mine a few years ago.)
5. RUN THE BLOWER PRIOR TO STARTUP for a couple of minutes to prevent a possible fire.
6. Dry boat in sun before putting on cover to avoid mildew.
7. If in a new lake, a GPS is VERY handy.
8. Get a in-boat 2-3 bank charger (whichever necessary) to keep batteries in peak condition. Plus all you need is an extension cord to charge.
9. Check local laws regarding life vest usage and necessary equipment such as distress signals, fire extinguisher, etc.
10. Since you are new to trailers, when you go to back up the boat, it is easier to back up if the boat is straightened out, even if it seems like you are a mile from the ramp. If you mess up, pull up until the rig is straight. If you place your hand at the bottom of the wheel and you want your boat to move to the left, move your hand to the left. If you want to move your boat to the right, move your hand to the right. This little trick helped me many years ago and helped avoid frustration.
Hope this helps. If you need any help or have questions, feel free to contact me. I've been around boats most of my life.

There is nothing like being the only boat on the water in the morning when the breeze is a little cool and the sun is glowing a reddish-orange. Have fun.

 

I too, have been boating since I was 12, (about 40 Years), I still have the Donzi Z I bought new in 1988. If it's cracked, fix it before it breaks. If it ain't broke, maintain it! Oil, clean and check evrything, evry time! If you take short cuts in the back yard, it will turn into long afternoons of being towed in, or worse! I get well over 1500 hours from my engines and drives, when I first started I was getting 600-800 hours. As I began to better take care of the parts, they began to take better care of me! My 540 c.i. big blocks make well over 600 h.p. each, yet I don't have nearly the problems the original 525 h.p. engines had. The difference, better care. Same goes for the drives, props, etc...