Stripped threads on aluminum head
I was in the process of changing plugs on my 2004 dodge ram, 5.7 hemi when I stripped the threads on #6 of the passenger side head while trying to REMOVE the sparkplug. The 1st 2 & a 1/2 threads of the plug tip were covered with aluminum from the head. I had no problems with the #2 & #3 cylinders. Can I have the head rethreaded or a heili coil installed without removing the head. I have 44000 mi on the truck and this is the first plug change. I still have the #8 & the drivers side to do. Is their a way to avoid this from happening again. Can anybody recomend a good auto shop in the phoenix area.
I would insist on the repair happening with a heavy (or thick) wall insert rather than a Helicoil (spring type).
I've heard a few good things about the time-serts www.timesert.com I've used Helicoils many times both personally and on prefessional projects with good results. I have not used the time-serts, but the concept of a solid busing insert makes more sense to me for a spark plug repair.
I've also know of the Calvan system used for the Ford Triton engines to replace the spark plug threads. This can be done with the heads still on the engine in the vehicle most of the time. The tritons years ago would eject spark plugs with significant violence sometimes, even taking out surrounding parts and denting the inner hood.
I would doubt that any of these repairs come with a 100% guarantee when doing the replacement with the heads on. I would actually like to know how they try to get all of the material back out after drilling. I would spend the money to pull the heads...
Sounds like a previous owner did not put anti-seize on the plugs when replacing them previously. You might want to consider putting inserts in all the spark plug holes, since all of them may be damaged. At least, use anti-seize every time a plug goes back in.
I've heard a few good things about the time-serts www.timesert.com I've used Helicoils many times both personally and on prefessional projects with good results. I have not used the time-serts, but the concept of a solid busing insert makes more sense to me for a spark plug repair.
I've also know of the Calvan system used for the Ford Triton engines to replace the spark plug threads. This can be done with the heads still on the engine in the vehicle most of the time. The tritons years ago would eject spark plugs with significant violence sometimes, even taking out surrounding parts and denting the inner hood.
I would doubt that any of these repairs come with a 100% guarantee when doing the replacement with the heads on. I would actually like to know how they try to get all of the material back out after drilling. I would spend the money to pull the heads...
Sounds like a previous owner did not put anti-seize on the plugs when replacing them previously. You might want to consider putting inserts in all the spark plug holes, since all of them may be damaged. At least, use anti-seize every time a plug goes back in.
Last edited by ramjamhemi; Feb 15, 2011 at 01:11 AM.
yup, anti seize is the way to prevent it from happening again. The threads stretch and aluminum heads can really lock onto the plugs.
the helicoils are what ive seen. been used for awhile with good results
the helicoils are what ive seen. been used for awhile with good results
I had one plug that was quite an animal to get out on my 4.7 I was worried that i would tear up the threads when it was coming out as well. As far as i could tell it was just carbon and junk on the end of the plug, but i just backed the plug out a little bit and keep spraying it with PB Blaster until it softened up. Good luck on the repair.
I WAS LUCKY!!, I took the truck to a local shop recommended by my son. Only the top two threads were flat. They were able to repair the threads and clean out the rest of the plug hole by running a thread chaser through it. They replaced the remaining 11 plugs and repairs for $250 The truck has been running great for the last week with over 200 miles on it.
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I've always used anti seize on mine - and both my #6 plugs stripped removing them. Bummer, since the "more difficult" #8 plugs went in just fine.




