easy to replace in texas im sure but not where we live. hope that thing isnt married cus u will be beating the **** out of it. mopar bearing cost me 45$ and lasted 100k so im happy with that i bought both mopar.

 

Yeah Mark, I hear that about the marriage.

The '03 svc manual says the following:



Anyone know what "Special Tool 8677" equivalent would be? Didn't know I had to separate the steering knuckle and upper BJ too. Guess this will be time to do the lower BJ's. I love doing things I haven't done before. Man, I thought this was gonna be easy!

 

the special tool you need is a ball joint seperator

 

<------ You should of put this with your post JDG

 

Maybe have to for 4wd, but I never separated any ball joint or tie rod end.

 

When my drivers side bearing was going bad it was also causing my abs to act up. I thought I had a abs problem until I got the bearing fixed and never had a problem again. I just had my pass. bearing replaced and that didn't cause any abs problems. Neither of my bearing were even close to being as bad as yours.

 

stop pulling the spindle you dont need to just push the cv chaft back to allow for room for the rachet. the axel nut is a 36MM and the tool they are talking about it a pickle fork. the kicker is you will need the axel nut spec for tightening if you over tighten it you will destroy the bearing. i also strongly suggest mopar bearings there the strongest and worth the extra money. also you shouldnt need much more then an hours per side.

and as far as doing the bearing on your girls ford. then you pulling the rotor off pul the front bearing then install the axel nut again and slid the rotor off hard well puching downword on the spindle and it will take that back side bearing out of the rotor saving lots of time and effort. and normally you can have them repacked but replacement is always best. also suggest cleaning the brake pad web up and having the rotor resurfesed.

 

Yeah, my ABS light came up a few months ago that I made a post about. Checked all the connections, etc...all checked out fine. So I disregarded the dummy light coming on every so often. Now, I know why it was happening!

Yeah, it's pretty bad. I can't understand why I did not feel anything in the steering wheel, wobble, etc. Don't want to know what could have happened if I kept driving it.

Svc manual doesn't give me an axle nut size for socket. They're about $17 a pop online at parts store, rather not buy two different sizes if anyone knows? Gonna start buying everything I need Friday.

EDIT: was posting same time...thanks for the axle nut size. Per my Haynes it states 185 ft lbs. I don't think I can just push the cv shaft back, but will try. Haven't started project yet, gotta wait on funds Friday.

 

You can also use a pitman arm puller to seperate the upper ball joint (less chance of damaging the ball joint boot. Keep your head away from the upper control arm when you seperate them, it'll bang up fast

 

Oh, regarding separating joints. I always grabbed a pickle fork to do this, but didn't want to tear up the boots on my tie rod and upper ball joint when I did my leveling kit. I read in a few different places to just smack the knuckle after loosening (just loosen, don't remove) the nut. It will break the joint loose and eliminate the extra tool. I did this and it worked just as well as the pickle fork.