WOW - Bearings/Hub Shot? (VIDEOS)
I have a few questions on this one. First, tie rod info. Here's a pic of left and right side for comparison. I've got over 190K miles. The right side looks like it's almost at a 45 degree angle where it connects. Is this a problem? Is it possibly bad?


Now, check this out. Been hearing some strange noises while driving. No squeals like bearings, no wheel shimmy, no steering wheel vibration, etc. Jacked her up, lug nutz still tight. LOOK at these vids!! I am sure that I am correct in assuming that these bearings are shot. What's involved and do I have to buy a while new axle shaft assembly/CV, etc?
1) Outer Wheel :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JPgJ5ReOgU
2) Inner Wheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnS4I_2JRZY


Now, check this out. Been hearing some strange noises while driving. No squeals like bearings, no wheel shimmy, no steering wheel vibration, etc. Jacked her up, lug nutz still tight. LOOK at these vids!! I am sure that I am correct in assuming that these bearings are shot. What's involved and do I have to buy a while new axle shaft assembly/CV, etc?
1) Outer Wheel :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JPgJ5ReOgU
2) Inner Wheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnS4I_2JRZY
Thanks stenerson. New to this type of repair. Not like repacking the bearings on my old Nissan 4x4 years ago. I Googled Timken and not sure exactly what I need. Just the hub assembly or both that and the axle assembly including the CV joints, etc.? You guys have suggestions on where to buy online?
Just the hub assembly. If one side is bad would be a good idea to take care of the other side in one 6 pack. Its not a bad job, take off tire, caliper and bracket, and the hub is held on by 3 bolts from the backside. You also have to remove your axle nut. Once you do the first side, the other probably wont even take you an hour.
Im looking at changing them on my wifes 05 F-150, THAT is the most godawful design I have ever seen. The rotor and bearing is one piece. I havent taken it apart yet so Im not quite sure how it works but we will see.
Im looking at changing them on my wifes 05 F-150, THAT is the most godawful design I have ever seen. The rotor and bearing is one piece. I havent taken it apart yet so Im not quite sure how it works but we will see.
Last edited by bigdaddyII; Apr 6, 2011 at 07:42 AM.
Right, just buy the wheel bearing hub as it has the bearing in it. Just make sure you get the right one for 2wd v/s 4wd and if you need it with the ABS sensor or not. You can normally buy them on ebay for 100 or less shipped.
Great, thanks guys. I was hoping that I would only need the hub assembly and not the axle assembly combined. Been checking prices online, the Timken averages $150's or so (with ABS).
That tie rod on the right side look ok?
Yep, def going to do both sides as well.
That tie rod on the right side look ok?
Yep, def going to do both sides as well.
Trending Topics
What size socket for the axle nut...about a 35mm or 36mm?
Ahhh, just read online one sign of the bearings going on these trucks is the ABS light....hence a post of mine a few months ago. Good to know.
I'm going to have to remove the CV axle on this job right? (To get to those 3 bolts on back of hub) Great! This was the monkey wrench I ran into regarding my lower BJ and stopped at that point.
Ahhh, just read online one sign of the bearings going on these trucks is the ABS light....hence a post of mine a few months ago. Good to know.
I'm going to have to remove the CV axle on this job right? (To get to those 3 bolts on back of hub) Great! This was the monkey wrench I ran into regarding my lower BJ and stopped at that point.
You will have to take the axle nut off in order for the bearing to be able to slide off of the shaft. Look in Weeds signature, there is a link to a service manual for our trucks in there, that will tell you what size the axle nut is. It will also give you the values to retorque everything as well.
Regarding your tie rod, if there is no slack in them, they look fine. If you grab that tie rod on the right side in your pic, you can twist it straight. They are supposed to move back and forth like that. Just movement from the "ball in socket" area is bad.
Regarding your tie rod, if there is no slack in them, they look fine. If you grab that tie rod on the right side in your pic, you can twist it straight. They are supposed to move back and forth like that. Just movement from the "ball in socket" area is bad.





