i have an 02 ram 1500 2 wd that is popping in the front end. it has 198,000 miles on it and i need her to last another 2 years atleast. the boots on the front are torn but i thought there werent cv's on a 2wd only 4x4. i think it may be the ball joints and was wondering if i just replaced the whole control arm if that will take care of the upper and lower. it seems to only pop when i brake really hard to come to a full stop or when turning sometimes. really need some help. i do all the work with my brother in law cause i cant afford the stealership prices. please help, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
thanks, Jak

 

I have an 05, I installed a DJM drop suspension and mangled the stock Balljoints when I removed the LCA's, as I didn't think I would ever re-install the stock LCA's and hardware. I was wrong. After the drop, I found out the frame was bent, (measurments were WAY off). I had to re-install the OEM stuff to take the truck back to the GM dealer where I bought it so it could be pulled. Everything is straight now, ( I even had them re-gap the entire truck, everything FREE and they provided a rental) but I have the same noise your describing and I KNOW its the balljoints. The DJM arms are going back on next weekend, with all new hardware, and I am 99% sure the sound will go away.

Now this info could be useless to you, but I thought I would throw it out there.

Also, you can just replace the balljoints (440 each, compared to $300 each for complete LCAs and joints) , but you have to grind off the 4 rivets, and swap to grade 10 bolts and nuts. I HIGHLY recommend just grinding the rivets and swapping in new joints. If you ever have to service them again, it makes the job 10 times faster in the future.

FYI, to anyone buying a used vehicle from a dealer, make sure you get a statement in writing, that the frame and vehicle have never been hit, or repaired. I always do, and it came through big time on this truck. Carfax said it was in an accident and repaired, I had the dealer put in writing that the frame was straight, and any damge found would garantee me a complete refund. Well, it ended up costing $4200 for the labor, rental and parts to fix the issues, with ZERO cost out of my pocket, other than my time.

 

the best way to determine the poping sound would be to put your front end on jack stands and take the wheels off, check the brakes and steering for any signs tht it is not funtioning properly. Take a pry bar and try to move the ball joints, if they move then they are shot and you need to repalce, check the steering damper to see if it has lost its fluid or not it should have some resistance when you push the piston in and out.

 

thanks guys. im doing the work this weekend. found moog lower balljoints and control arms with the upper at advance for $385.00. hoping it wont take all day to fix though. any idea of the man hours involved in replacing the upper control and balljoints?

 

Approx 3-4 hrs, as you need to grind out the rivets on the lower balljoint, remove and re-install and replace with bolts. If your replacing the entire lower A-Arm, it will take less time.

Seperating the balljoints from the spindle is a PITA, make sure you either rent or buy a good balljoint service kit.

If you intend on pressing out the lower balljoint, and pressing in a new one, good luck, you need a hydraulic press, it took 6000 psi to push it out on my LCA's.

 

@ Skwurlz - where are YOU buying BJs for 440 or even 300 each? No need to grind the rivets either, just press out the old and press in the new.

RockAuto.com
Lower BJ - Moog # 7411 - $45
UCA w/BJ - Moog #7424 - $64
LCA bushing - Moog #7417 - $23
UCA bushing - Moog #7473 - $18

 

The 440 is a typo, should have been $40

$300 is for the complete LCA's with balljoints.

Pressing out the joints requires a hydraulic press, not something most folks have in thier garage. By grinding out the rivets, and replacing with bolts and nuts, its something 90% of the home mechanics can do, without having to drive to a shop/pay for a press. Also, once you have replaced it with hardware, should you keep the truck long enough to replace again, it makes service 10 times faster.

I have the DJM A-Arms, so I am required to press the balljoints. They also use F150 joints, not Dodge joints.

 

I question that pricing also. Rockauto.com has the lower Moog BJ's for $45 each and the Moog upper control arm w/BJ for $64 ea.

Just checked Advance Auto - Moog BJ $67 ea and Upper CA $123ea...big difference.

I just pressed out the old and the new Moog lower BJ in last night on my pass side. Real PITA but with the right tool it works just fine. I rented the master BJ 23-piece service kit from Advance ($100 deposit)

The old BJ had 3 crimps on top. I just used some light tapping w/screwdriver and hammer to bend those crimps back in so it could be pressed out. I'm sure your '02 is quite similiar.

BJ Service Kit to press in/out BJ's




Puller Set to separate BJ's from CA (*worked great per Weed's suggestion...the puller on right)

 

Ahhh...lol That's better pricing Rock has lower CA w/BJ for $107...just FYI

 

$300 was for a pair at Napa. Anyways, like i said, I have the DJM lowers, and soon to have some tubular uppers, so the OEM stuff isn't applicable to my truck.

I'd really like to Heim everything up front though