NO BUS... How to fix?
First, before you spend any money anywhere else, take the battery to a car parts store and have them check it. A bad cell in the battery will cause a NOBUS NOFUSE message, and you won't even be able to jump start it. In fact, I had trouble removing the key.
Put your key into the ignition. Press/hold your Odo reset button and while holding turn your key to the start position but don't crank. release thereset button.
This puts your odometer in a diagnostics check. If nothing happens, your odometer is bad. if your odometer fails one step, like not sweeping one of the needles, it's bad.
If you get no power to any part of your truck, well check your battery, but your ignition switch could be bad as well.
All your stuff goes through your cluster. It's what's called a decoder.
This puts your odometer in a diagnostics check. If nothing happens, your odometer is bad. if your odometer fails one step, like not sweeping one of the needles, it's bad.
If you get no power to any part of your truck, well check your battery, but your ignition switch could be bad as well.
All your stuff goes through your cluster. It's what's called a decoder.
I hope it's OK that I piggy back on this thread. This morning I had the NO BUS issue. The wipers did not work, all the dummy lights were on BUT the speedometer worked and the vehicle ran. I made the short commuted to work, on the way I turned the vehicle off once to see if the bus would reconnected-- and I then lost the speedometer. After work, everything was back to normal. I just got done d/cing the battery, cleaning the terminals, d/cing the PCM and cleaning all the connectors with electrical connection clean. I plugged them in and out repeatedly and rinsed them again with the cleaner.
I then walked away and let things dry why I sprayed the yellow sedge popping up in the back yard. 20 minutes later, I put some dialectic grease into the PCM connectors and reconnected them, and a little on the battery posts and reconnected the battery. Everything seem to be fine at the moment, and I did clear up the gas cap code in the process. There were zero signs of corrosion on the PCM so I am not sure what is going on or if this will crop up again.
I then walked away and let things dry why I sprayed the yellow sedge popping up in the back yard. 20 minutes later, I put some dialectic grease into the PCM connectors and reconnected them, and a little on the battery posts and reconnected the battery. Everything seem to be fine at the moment, and I did clear up the gas cap code in the process. There were zero signs of corrosion on the PCM so I am not sure what is going on or if this will crop up again.
Thanks for your answer in this thread. So if after that reset process it still says nobus it is more than likely a connection or a bad ECU? I have just done a 3.9 to a 5.2 conversion and ran the wires for the #7 and #9 injectors according to what I read on this forum, which also said I didn't have to have the computer flashed. Is that correct or could it also be that? Thanks
No because the 5.2 came out of a jeep. It has been a good challenge because I've always been a Chevy guy. Also could that sensor under the battery have anything to do with this issue? I put a smaller battery in the 1999 Ram 1500 also.
I am still trying to figure out this whole ecm deal. I can't remember where I read that I wouldn't need a different ECM or reflashing to go from a 6 to an 8 . Does anyone know if I do? Same kind of trans back in. This 318 and trans came out of a 4wd jeep so I can't use that one. Would the chrysler jeep sensors be too much different for this to jell? Even after checking all the grounds on engine body and ECM, cleaning the connections at ECM, disconnecting and charging the battery I still get a NO BUS. AND I hate to admit that the engine and hoodless truck sat unprotected besides the holes, so there is corrosion on all aluminum parts. Thanks in advance








