Thanks man! I am racking up alot of hours in this truck. Funny it was supposed to be my non project DD and it turned in to this haha.

I just wish I had your motor

 

bump for ARB installed this weekend

 

I love it, great work. Wish I had access to the tools so I could do this. I don't need something with crazy flex. Just four wheel motion!!

 

^^^ What he said! I can't wait to own a 4x4 diesel

 

I have done a SAS on my Ram. Having a full shop to work from, I did this one @ my home. Again I could have done this @ the shop with the lift, and all the tools I needed. Instead I wanted to see if this could be done without having a full custom shop to work from? Also, the cost involved. and last but, not least, the design and labor involved? Well, this is how and what I came up with... I took a front axle from a 1978 Ford F250 4X4 (a Dana 44 HP w/leaf springs and 4.09 reverse rotation gears) and rebuilt it (new seals, u joints, bearings, gears, etc.), I changed the ends (brake brackets, calipers, spindles and hubs from the 8 on 6.5 to 5 on 5.5 lug pattern), Since this "set-up" was going to be a leaf sprung front I started with a 5"X5"X34.25" square tubing for my front crossmember. I welded my spring hangers @ 31.25" from center to center to my crossmember and then welded my crossmember to my front frame (after getting my "lay-out"), I then cut all my IFS brackets and crossmember out from under my truck. Pulled my measurements back from my front hangers to 53.50" center to center to weld up my shackle hangers. Then came the steering issue? So I, got a 1999 Dodge Ram steering gear box and welded through my frame 3 DOM sleeves (after several "mock-ups" to get it perfect), Once that was complete, I bolted the the new axle under my truck on 4" Ford springs. With the truck sitting on "her" own I had the brake line made and built a crossover steering set-up using .75" rod ends and 1" id DOM tubing. My total cost was way cheaper than what it would have been (but, being fair about this, I came up with a price/cost list). As far as doing this "at home" and the tools needed (welders, metal saws, hand tools, etc.) is another subject! Last would be the level of difficulty, and that is a hard one? meaning, what's easy for me may be hard to others or vise versa. what I'm trying to say here is don't try to do this on your own if you don't have any experience. Now, I know I made this sound easy and summed it up (left out alot of the cussing nights, frustration, etc.) lol! Hopefully this helps some to have an idea about what it would take?
1978 Ford F250 Dana 44 HP leaf sprung axle $150.00? quoted
1978 Ford F150 4X4 2 spindles, 2 hubs and 2 rotors $150.00? quoted
1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Steering gear box $50.00? quoted
2 sets of 3/4" Rod End Set 1" Tube ID, 1.5" X .25" Wall, 1" Tube ID X 108”
DOM Tubing, 2.5” Leaf spring hanger kit and standard Shackle hanger kit $281.40 @ ruffstuffspecialties.com
1978 Ford F150 4X4 front calipers and brake pads $62.00 @ local parts store
Dana 44 reverse rotation 4.09 Yukon Ring and Pinion set $165.00
@ ronsmachiningservice.net
Dana 44 Master Overhaul Kit Item #22114 $245.00 @ broncograveyard.com
Assortment of grade 8 bolts used on the steering and leaf springs $30.00?
@ local parts store
add approximately another $300.00 for misc. stuff (5"X5"X35.25" tubing, brake line, grade 8 bolts, etc.)
Total estimated parts: $1,433.40?

 

Thats awesome! Again having the know how and access to a good welder makes all the difference.

So when are you guys heading to KS to tackle big red??

 

If I were in Texas I would help you with your conversion. I posted this to hopefully help some.

 

31 1/2" center to center for your springs? that is way to narrow even for a 78 d44..... my 05 1500 frame center to center in the front is 36" or so. my superduty(2001 d50) front axel stock is 38 1/2" center to center on the spring perches. that is what im going to be using on my sfa setup on my 05. so i will be making my front spring hangers 38 1/2" center to center. the rear shackles will have to be 1" off set in the rear to accomadate the 38 1/2" spring perch width. ill be using 52" springs from the rear of a 80s model chevy truck for my springs as well. I still havent decided wich way to go with the steering box though. or what box im even going to use. For you two that have already done this could you share some info or pictures of how and where you mounted your box? and how it hooks up to the stock steering shaft? thanks and ill be sure to post up pics of my set up when i get started.

 

I got your PM this morning jaybuller, I am outta town for work until saturday, but when I get home I try and grab you some pics. I used a jeep TJ steering box (they are all saginaw boxes). After I got the the axles mounted and weight on it I mocked up the box based on the pitman arm draglink location. I drilled some holes, sleeved it and bolted it up. The stock pressure side P/S line like worked perfect but I had to make a adapter for the return side.

If I had it to do again I would look into a ford box that steers to the front, I ran into complications with my cross member being in the way of my steering box. I may go a head and change it this summer.

Also I did set my perches 38 1/2 " not 36 as I stated earlier so I could used a super duty axle in the future. I think wakulla made a typo. There is no way you could mount them that close easily, plus it would make for ALOT more body role due to the increased moment.

 

Here is a current picture, 305 70 17's nitto AT on H2 wheels