U joints for my pavement queen 2500
OK. Dodge u joints on a 2500 drive train are garbage, in case you did not know. I need to replace my front u joints on the front drive axle. THis is the 3rd set to go in.
OEM lasted to 75,000 km than were replaced under warenty, now the replacements are cooked at 115,000 km with no waranty.
I need insight into replacing this non servicable garabage with after market greaseable u joints. What is a awsome replacment for Fobar Dodge oem U joints?
My 06 is a hemi, 6 speed man, 4x4 and I have ranted before on this issue.
OEM lasted to 75,000 km than were replaced under warenty, now the replacements are cooked at 115,000 km with no waranty.
I need insight into replacing this non servicable garabage with after market greaseable u joints. What is a awsome replacment for Fobar Dodge oem U joints?
My 06 is a hemi, 6 speed man, 4x4 and I have ranted before on this issue.
Are you absolutely sure its your u-joints???????
I get a 60 mph vibration on mine, already did all the joints on the truck, and they're still tight, and greasable, turns out the bearings on both output shafts of the transfer case have worn to where I get approx 1/4" play on the yoke of the rear drive line, less on the yoke of the front drive line---so I've located a remanufactured unit for around 1400, I'll keep the old one.
Just an FYI, I have 157K on mine, and yes he fluids have been changed at proper intervals
I get a 60 mph vibration on mine, already did all the joints on the truck, and they're still tight, and greasable, turns out the bearings on both output shafts of the transfer case have worn to where I get approx 1/4" play on the yoke of the rear drive line, less on the yoke of the front drive line---so I've located a remanufactured unit for around 1400, I'll keep the old one.
Just an FYI, I have 157K on mine, and yes he fluids have been changed at proper intervals
My left front ujoint on front axle sounds like chirping birds grinding rocks, in motion or standing still ( turning wheal ) the cap on the the top of the axle shaft on drive axle is leaking grease.
just for kicks I sprayed wd 40 on booth inside front wheal hub portion of the u joint for booth front axles.
Poor mans attempt at greasing the u joints. Front U joints are now quiet, thiers still some minor random sqeaking.
Outter left tie rod is fine, front u joint, back u joint on the front drive shaft is ok, as is front and back u joint on the rear drive shaft.
Its a industry standard for all makes to use non serviceable u joints, I'm woundering a dodge owner can direct me to a fter market builder of U joints.
just for kicks I sprayed wd 40 on booth inside front wheal hub portion of the u joint for booth front axles.
Poor mans attempt at greasing the u joints. Front U joints are now quiet, thiers still some minor random sqeaking.
Outter left tie rod is fine, front u joint, back u joint on the front drive shaft is ok, as is front and back u joint on the rear drive shaft.
Its a industry standard for all makes to use non serviceable u joints, I'm woundering a dodge owner can direct me to a fter market builder of U joints.
Precision u-joints made by Federal-Mogul, look at rock auto.
When its time for a clutch---South Bend Clutch, they build kevlar disks, and custom clamping force pressure plates, far superior to centerforce
When its time for a clutch---South Bend Clutch, they build kevlar disks, and custom clamping force pressure plates, far superior to centerforce
Last edited by Gone Fishin; Aug 2, 2011 at 07:56 PM.
Thanks. I will check it out. Factery clutch and pressure plate throw out bearing ect areas good as new in my truck, ( now I cursed my self lol ) I wounder if the 6speed hemi crowd has issues with u joints, over the hemi automatic 2500?
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nope the auto have it too, the Diesels moreso, higher torque
Just a heads up, the weak link in the tranny is the pilot brg for the input shaft. Mine died and new input shaft is around $900--which I agree is ridiculuos, there is a diesel shop in Minnesota that has them for around 250 new with the oem part numbers.
I'm looking into fitting the Diesel pilot set for the back end of the crank on mine as a much heavier sealed brg is available, and the needle brg set goes away, right now I'm dealing with a NP271 transfer case thats slowly going away-----they just don't seem to build em like they used to, and they cost twice as much.
Good luck with the u-joints, Mine was a real PIA to get apart, but the whole front end was much better when finished
Be careful with the ABS sensors in the hubs.
Just a heads up, the weak link in the tranny is the pilot brg for the input shaft. Mine died and new input shaft is around $900--which I agree is ridiculuos, there is a diesel shop in Minnesota that has them for around 250 new with the oem part numbers.
I'm looking into fitting the Diesel pilot set for the back end of the crank on mine as a much heavier sealed brg is available, and the needle brg set goes away, right now I'm dealing with a NP271 transfer case thats slowly going away-----they just don't seem to build em like they used to, and they cost twice as much.
Good luck with the u-joints, Mine was a real PIA to get apart, but the whole front end was much better when finished
Be careful with the ABS sensors in the hubs.
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I dunno guys, I put a full set of u-joints in early last spring 2010 and they're holding up fine.
I now have issues with the rear output shaft bearing on the transfer case causing some Higher speed vibration, but thats different.
I now have issues with the rear output shaft bearing on the transfer case causing some Higher speed vibration, but thats different.




