Just an FYI to all, crimped connections can handle current better than soldered connections. Connection points heat up under high current and can actually cause soldered connections to fail and corrode easier. This can be minimized by ensuring nonair or water can get at your connection.

 

No I don't have any pictures of the wiring or the sensor, I will take come pictures tomorrow and post them up. It came out really good. FWIW, I ended up not soldering any of the connections, they are all crimped and heat wrapped and or electrical taped. This made the install quick and painless.

 

Why are people using fan controllers? I just bought a fan temp switch for a Taurus 185 on 178 off I think was its spec. run the wire from the fan switch to the ground side of the relay pole. Let the relay kick the fan on at those temps.. fan temp switch was like 12 bucks at Oriellys plus the heavey duty relay and some wire.. was a LOT cheaper and very reliable setup.. had the same setup on my 78 F150 Big Block for years with dual fans.. It may still have that setup for all I know.. sold it that way.

 

How does it sense when it is 185* without some kind of sensor in the radiator or on the manifold/thermostat housing?

 

That is what the fan temp switch is, it screws right into the manifold, in my case thier was a threaded plug in the thermostat housing, pulled the plug and put the switch in that hole.. works like a charm.. All they do is ground the relay so it turns on the fans at given temp.

Like this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COOLI...item1e662d84f4

 

02s with 5.9s might have a threaded port for a water temp probe but 03+ 5.7s do not which is why we buy a Hayden with a radiator fin temp probe

 

Dayum! I thought we had a good hack for a cool setup. The fan I put in last year has a bad connector on it, I'm gonna swap it out for a 2 speed fan

 

Don't get me wrong. You can go to ebay and buy a metal coupler with a threaded port so you can cut the upper rad hose in two and put it in the hose if you really want an in-water sensor.

 

Interesting. Would there be one that could go into a heater core hose? The weakness of the radiator sensor is that the rad has to 'warm up' to set off the sensor, it's a little behind the actual water.

 

IDK but you can check. If the sensor probe is set at 180* to turn on the fan but the OEM state is around 203* then you still have plenty of time before you even come close to overheating