Hey guys got a prob. The truck was running ruff when first started for a couple of weeks but after 15-20 secs would be fine. Then one night on the interstate it felt like it wS bogging down. The next morning it was missing real bad. So I hooked up a comp to it and it said miss fire in cyl 2 and 7. So first thing I was going to do normal tune-up plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. Then I read on here about the plenum. Looked down the tb and a lot of carbon so I decided to do it all at once. While doing the work I also took apart the fuel rail and injectiors. Moved 2 and 7 to cyl 4 and 6 to see if the code would jump with the move. Started it up last night and was still missing. Took it around the block lots of back fire. Pulled home was going to look More under the hood while it was running and it died. Now won't start just cranks. Hit the release valve on fuel rail fuel come out. Turned the key on and turned it over. Checked the pressure in the rail this time nothing? So could the file pump be out and could it cause the missing if it was going bad? Any ideas would be help full. Layed off right now so no money to take it to a shop

 

Truck also has 120k miles on it and running up to auto to borrow comp to see what it says now

 

Could be the fuel pump.
360's need 50psi of pressure to run right. You are hearing the pump spin right? If not, likely it is a fuel pump issue.


Also, fixed your plenum yet?

 

:update: went and got the comp and 5 gal in gas dumped the gas in. Line is pressurizing cuz I checked the pressure relief on the rail also checked for spark. Put a old plug on a wire and got nothing. Also put an old plug in the coil wire and no spark. Then hooked up the comp and it keeled telling me can not connect to the the vehicle check connections. Also the gauges don't seem to be working. None of them are moving when the ignition is turned to the on position. So to reset the comp don't you just have disconnect the battery for a few min?

 

Yeah I did the plenum when i did the plugs and wires. I got the kit from huges

 

Okay, good.
To reset the PCM, you usually disconnect the neg. terminal, and flip the headlights on.
That should kill any juice left in the system.
THIS WILL RESET THE PCM.
IT WILL TAKE A LITTLE BIT FOR THE PCM TO RE-LEARN EVERYTHING.
Meaning, it might drive funny for a few miles...(or 100....)

 

Tried reseting the comp nothing. Gauges not working no movement on the fuel or volt gauge. Did check all the fuses too. Any ideas?

 

Bumb any have any ideas for me

 

So no gauges, no fuel pump powering up.. do you have any power at all, power windows or door locks, do the lights work at all? My battery suddenly died on me a couple months ago, so with a multimeter check the voltage from both battery posts, then from the positive post to a good engine ground, and then take one more reading from battery to engine ground with the key in the run position. (my battery had a couple bad cells and it would read 12-13 volts across the battery, but when I keyed the truck on it would drop to about 4-5 volts and only the red security light flashed at me) Provided the battery is still good and strong, let's hope it's not a problem with the computer. It is weird that your scanner wasn't able to talk to the truck. What brand scanner did you get?

 

Figured it out. Found out if the cam or crank sensor get shorted out it will **** down the puter. So I started checking volts from them and I noticed that when I put the intake back on I pinched the cam sensor wires between the intake and heads. Would like tO thank you guy for your help.