Don't use a torque wrench for breaking stubborn bolts, the bands don't like that.

I've always got a few pipes around just slightly bigger than my ratchet/breaker bar handles for extra leverage. You'd be amazed how much more power you get out of another 6" of leverage. General rule is no longer than 2x the length of a good-quality ratchet or you'll risk wrecking it. I've used some stupid long extensions, just keep in mind how much force you're using.
A lead-shot rubber mallet is great for beating on a wrench to spin off bolts as well. Be sure to use the box-end of the wrench on the bolt.
Heating up a bolt/nut with a propane torch can help a lot as well. Just be careful as to fumes, rubber grommets nearby, etc.

Just a few tips I learned when I started working on vehicles

 

A wrench is a wrench, torque or otherwise. A long-handle box-end will allow you to put more twist on it.

Get a Fumoto valve and never have to remove the plug again.

 

^^^
Dang, you beat me to it, I was just going to suggest a Fumoto valve

nateroach

 

Yes, but you can damage a torque wrench by using it to break loose stubborn bolts. A torque wrench is not designed to be used with sharp pulling like you do trying to break bolts loose. You can also exceed the torque limit of the wrench in doing so. You will likley throw off the calibration of the wrench at a minimum.

If you doubt this, talk to any manufacturer who makes torque wrenches or to a trained machinist or person who builds engines for a living. A torque wrench is a precision instrument that needs to be handled and used with care. If you own a torque wrench but not a breaker bar or long handled ratchet, chances are that you should not even be working on your vehicle.

 

Does anyone else use this valve? It looks legit but I would like some reviews before I possibly buy it.

 

Exactly my point. The poster seemed to think a torque wrench was somehow better than a reg'lar ol' wrench.

 

I've used them for years. Currently I have three: my Ram, my 300C and my Mazda. Sure makes oil changes easier and neater.

 

Awesome. Next oil change I'll be sure to add this

 

I wanted to use one of those valves back when i had an 01.5 Turbo Diesel. What we on the TDR forum found out though was the valve will not allow all the oil in the pan to drain.

When the valve screws in, a portion of it extends up into the oil pan, just like the drain plug does. So when you open the valve, the oil can only drain down to the level the valves threads stop at. But this was on a flat bottom Cummins oil pan. On a 5.7 Hemi, the drain plug area is angled So it might not be an issue.

I for one do not have any real issue with taking the drain plug out for oil changes. It's easy to get to and with a box wrench, it is pretty much impossible to strip the head on one. I like the security of knowing that it is impossible for a drain plug to even accidently open.

I do wish their was a better filter mounting location. The location means you will always spill oil onto the steering rack and on to you.

 

i used an impact gun to get my drain plug off lol no problems there.