Ok, so I just pulled off my rear rotors to be turned, I did not touch a line or bleeder or anything...simply pulled calipers off then pulled rotors off...got everything back together, pumped the brakes, pedal can be put to the floor, slowly, but gets there. I drove it down the road a bit and normal driving it seems to stop fine, but I always test a hard brake after doing brakes and I was not impressed with the way it stopped...it didn't screech the tires at all, now I didn't jab/slam the pedal I slowly engaged it first then gave A LOT of pressure and it eventually made it to the floor...but it got the front brakes hot enough to smoke...Came home checked fluid level and it is right up where it should be...it just doesn't make sense that the pedal never did that before and I didn't open any part of the pressure system for air or anything to get in and there are no leaks.

Any comments, thoghts or ideas??

 

I assume you sprayed it all down with brake cleaner prior to install to remove any grease on the surfaces??
Did you install new pads with the freshly turned rotors? Your pads could be glazed which would severly kill your braking power!

 

NI didn't put new pads on, there is still plenty of pad life left, so I turned the rotors to get out some of the warpping to finish out the life of the pads at which point I am putting these all the way around...they are said to be very good for a tow vehicle, in which I do a lot of towing here and there. Though I am open to other ideas/sugggestions

http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/it...3572&mfr=POWER STOP&weight=24

http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/it...0144&mfr=POWER STOP&weight=5

Glazing most definitely could be an issue, I didn't really think of that, except that When I saw my front brakes smoking, I figured I had JUST glazed them over. But I don't think it is the main issue, cuz the pedal didn't go to the floor before, and it does now when applied hard...I'll pull it back apart tomorrow and try some emry cloth on all rotors and pads and use brake cleaner to make sure they are good and clean...but that still doesn't solve the eventual sinking to the floor...thanks for the reply though, I never thought of the fact that the pads could be glazed too, even though the rotors were just turned...I have such brain farts sometimes...

 

Check the lub on the sliders. From 1200 miles a way, I would first look to sticking pads. Second, how much material did you take off the rotors. The specs allow very little, that why most people just replace the rotors if they are oem. Less material, the hotter they run. Since the warpage is primarily from excess heat, you may have increased the the problem. Also, could you have gotten some grease or or oil on the rotors or pads. Cleaning with brake cleaner will resolve the problem on the rotor, but not on the pad. The fact that "it didn't screech the tires at all" is good since you have abs.

 

The rotors were not ground beyond minimum specs. The warpping from excess heat was because I have pulled A LOT of BIG trailers and the wiring was never correctly installed for my trailer brake controller so the truck was doing all of the stopping, I have that issue resolved now so the heat issue should be solved. Grease and oil is possible but not likely, as I didn't touch the front brakes which do most of the stopping, I only played with rear brakes today. I do not have 4 wheel abs, and other vehicles that I have had with it still screeched the tires, just not a continuous screech. Thanks for the reply

 

Shops wont grind below minimum specs. It's a safety issue and they want to sell you rotors.

The brakes didn't go all the way to the floor before prob because you didn't need to push them as hard. Where as this time, if the back brake pads are glazed over, the fronts are working twice as hard and thus made you press harder on the pedal. Then, when they started to get very hot, they lose bite the hotter they get forcing you to push the pedal even harder!
I'm gonna guess that's what happened. If you want to salvage the pads, I would pull the calipers back off and hand sand the pads with a med-mild grit paper just enough to take off the outermost layer.

My ABS has never activated on the road. I've slammed on my brakes and have slid a few times. I did test out the rear ABS on loose gravel at 10mph and it activated..lol

 

Have you tried replacing your brake fluid? Sounds like you tow heavy and that can boil brake fluid. Just think how hot your brake fluid got if your rotors got hot enough to warp. Brake fluid change is good maintenance anyway and definitely not a waste if it doesn't work.

 

If you forced the pistons on the rears back in to pull the caliper to removre the rotor, its possible that the pistons are seized in the caliper bore. Its also probable that since you've had the rotors turned, the old pads have to re-bed themselves, and they may have worn to some really funky angle from the old rotors

Just pull em apart, make sure they're good and clean, pull the pads and rough them up good, them do a bedding on them. If the piston is seized, its time for a small investment.

 

It acts like there is air in the line; but I didn't break open the system at all to allow air in, so I have no idea how it would need bled. With the engine off the pedal sinks a bit then firms up real nice, like it always used to, but once I start the engine, it loses pressure again. It still stops with seemingly the same amount of pressure on the pedal as always, but if I have to push harder on the pedal it will have little added effect on stopping and the pedal will slowly sink to the floor, with still some mild pressure on it, but I can hear the thump of hitting the floor...sure there may be an issue with glazing, but there is another issue at hand as well, which is more of a concern to me than the possible glazing. The only thing I did was I switched sides of the rotors which were different widths...so I had to push one piston back a smidgen. But not enough to push fluid out the cap of the master cylinder...And I checked again, no fluid is disappearing, so I don't have a leak anywhere. It just doesn't make any sense to me.

 

I'm still having this issue, it has gotten worse to where I tried to bleed the entire system, to no avail. Disregard the explainations I have about driving the vehicle, it is now up on jack stands in the pole barn. Engine off, I bled the 4 wheels starting with furthest from master cylinder, pedal firmed up good like it used to when truck was new and until I messed with rear brakes, though again the time I started having this issue, I did not break open the fluid system at all. Anyway, everything seems tip top, until I start the engine and now the power booster is functioning, then the pedal gets spongey. I bled entire system again with motor running and booster pumping, still nothing. I can shut engine off and pump pedal a few times and it firms up good, start engine up and push it and is spongey. I need help badly, it has gotten worse and not really driveable.