These rims fit? If not, what specs do I need?
Searched for as much info as I could find on bolt pattern, diameter, width, and offset and then started searching for some rims. I found these. Not set on them but when I use the vehicle compatibility function on the site, it says they are NOT compatible with my vehicle. Am I searching by the wrong specs? If so, what should I look for? I want to get some 17", non-glossy black rims before my next set of tires, which will also include a front end leveling.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-NEW-XD800-...=mtr#vi-ilComp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-NEW-XD800-...=mtr#vi-ilComp
Thanks Hammer. I'm doing this for my son and he likes the look of the tires pushed out a little. The trick for me is how much is too much. I guess flares are always an option but, for me, having them stick out so much that mud, rocks, etc. get slung all down the side of the truck sucks. I'll not only be changing rims, I'll be going with a bit more aggressive looking and bigger tiresl. Something like some Nittos or Duratracs. If I don't do a lift, and just do a level, what's a decent size tire to go with? And, if I don't want the tires to stick out much or at all, what kind of offset should I look for?
You won't need flares unless you are going to a significantly wider tire. The offset is only slightly less than stock rims. I don't think we are even talking an inch here. Now if they were a -12, that'd be another story.
Watch those Duratracs, nice tread but the sidewalls don't hold up well on heavier (QC/4x4) trucks. Jeep or smaller SUV fine, but I've seen a LOT of sidewall failures on those, even E rated on full size trucks.
I'm not sure and am too lazy to look it up, but I think the stock wheels are +6mm offset, I know it's positive offset anyway. 0 or anything positive, they won't stick out much if at all. If you're gonna do the level, hell then just crank the stock keys up an inch and a half to two inches. 33" tires would look good and give lots of room for loading the bed/flex/etc. 35s will go, but will kill gas mileage and won't leave much room to use the truck as a truck.
Remember, going to a 17" rim will not only cost less but make the tires A LOT less expensive, plus will increase hauling/towing capacity and even if you go to a slightly larger tire, the wheel size should keep the fuel economy from being any worse...
Watch those Duratracs, nice tread but the sidewalls don't hold up well on heavier (QC/4x4) trucks. Jeep or smaller SUV fine, but I've seen a LOT of sidewall failures on those, even E rated on full size trucks.
I'm not sure and am too lazy to look it up, but I think the stock wheels are +6mm offset, I know it's positive offset anyway. 0 or anything positive, they won't stick out much if at all. If you're gonna do the level, hell then just crank the stock keys up an inch and a half to two inches. 33" tires would look good and give lots of room for loading the bed/flex/etc. 35s will go, but will kill gas mileage and won't leave much room to use the truck as a truck.
Remember, going to a 17" rim will not only cost less but make the tires A LOT less expensive, plus will increase hauling/towing capacity and even if you go to a slightly larger tire, the wheel size should keep the fuel economy from being any worse...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Jan 18, 2012 at 04:40 PM.
Wow, my guestimate of +6mm offset was off. Stock 17s in '04 is +12mm and the 20s +19.04mm. No wonder I took my stockers off less than a week after I bought the truck, LOL...
As far as offset goes, I always liked the way this site explained it. READ:
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
As you can see, the greater the offset (positive numbers) the more wheel remains under the truck, the lesser the offset (negative numbers) then more of the wheel is pushed out from under the truck...
As far as offset goes, I always liked the way this site explained it. READ:
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
As you can see, the greater the offset (positive numbers) the more wheel remains under the truck, the lesser the offset (negative numbers) then more of the wheel is pushed out from under the truck...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Jan 18, 2012 at 04:55 PM.
Okay, so test my learning here. I've got stock 20's. According to Hammer, they have a +19.04mm offset. So, if I go with a rim that has a 0 offset, I'm pushing the sidewalls of the tires out 19.04mm's? So, if I went with a +12mm offset, I'd still be "hanging out" 7.04mm's than I am today? All assuming using the same width tires I currently have.
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You got it. I didn't know the stock offset was that much. My 17x9s with -12mm stick out a bit, but not too severely. With 285/70s, they're out about 1 1/2". I'd wonder about a 0 offset and 5" backspace. Make sure they'll clear the suspension bits.
Thanks dog. I have seen that but doesnt help me 100%.
i now have my eyes on some vtec raptors. Advertised as fitting various dodges including ram 1500. Its a 17x9 wheel with the right bolt pattern. Offset is +18mm and backspace is 5.7. Tech specs list load rating at 2100 though. I see others listed at 3400. Is 2100 sufficient with no heavy loads or towing? And should they fit with no spacers or adapters?
i now have my eyes on some vtec raptors. Advertised as fitting various dodges including ram 1500. Its a 17x9 wheel with the right bolt pattern. Offset is +18mm and backspace is 5.7. Tech specs list load rating at 2100 though. I see others listed at 3400. Is 2100 sufficient with no heavy loads or towing? And should they fit with no spacers or adapters?







