Stripped header bolts!!! Help pls
Hello everyone I heard what sounds to be an exhaust leak coming from in the engine bay sounds like a slight tisk, so I started to tighter header bolts all of them were a half to a full turn loose. asides from that about two header bolts are stripped and just keep spinning after they snug up a little. I have edlbrock headers, should i pull the bolts out and just see if the bolts are stripped?? I didn't want to pull em out and not be able to get them back in to give the little support they do give. Anyone have any experience with this.
If the bolts are broken to where you can't get at them, the Grabits work quite well. I use my set quite often and it's under $20 at Lowes.
I didn't use stage 8 when I installed my Pacesetters, nor did I use the locking ones so many people like to use.
First off, you're sticking these bolts into threaded aluminum, not steel, so the threads are soft. I was advised by a pretty well known performance shop guy that using locking bolts is a no-no in aluminum as vibrations will cause the threads to strip as opposed to the bolts backing out.
For the same reason I used the common, mild steel bolts that came with the headers. To date (over 6 years now) I've never had an issue with a bolt head breaking or anything else. I check 'em every oil change time (6000 miles) and snug 'em up with just a simple wrench when they need it. I've never had to turn one more than a 1/4 turn or so to date...
First off, you're sticking these bolts into threaded aluminum, not steel, so the threads are soft. I was advised by a pretty well known performance shop guy that using locking bolts is a no-no in aluminum as vibrations will cause the threads to strip as opposed to the bolts backing out.
For the same reason I used the common, mild steel bolts that came with the headers. To date (over 6 years now) I've never had an issue with a bolt head breaking or anything else. I check 'em every oil change time (6000 miles) and snug 'em up with just a simple wrench when they need it. I've never had to turn one more than a 1/4 turn or so to date...
Weird too cause i am still using my original bolts and still threading/locking fine even after who knows how many times the headers have been removed and put on. Have stage 8 locking bolts but never had to use them so far.
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It just made sense to me, if you think about it, road vibrations, off-roading, etc. is going to eventually cause something to give and if the bolts are locked in and of a harder material than the threads then it stands to reason that the soft threads could strip.
Me personally, I'd rather have to get under there with a wrench twice a year and just snug up the bolts than have to worry about re-tapping or using heli coils on engine...
Me personally, I'd rather have to get under there with a wrench twice a year and just snug up the bolts than have to worry about re-tapping or using heli coils on engine...
Hammer,
If you do see this, would there be any advantage to studding the bolt holes for the header flange.
I'm gonna be up for doing headers and exhaust on mine one of these days--just curious
If you do see this, would there be any advantage to studding the bolt holes for the header flange.
I'm gonna be up for doing headers and exhaust on mine one of these days--just curious



