Power Door Locks
I have the ST and I installed power locks to it this weekend. It is awesome. I took pics to show where to put the actuators, since most sites dont have this. The harness was awesome, it fit perfect. It took me 5.5 hours to do all four doors, but next time I'll do anything like this it will be in the fall or winter cause S. FL this time is too hot. I did not have to cut the hook from the door panel to install the actuator like some people posted here. I found a place where it works fine.
I have one problem thought. Somewhere when I was installing the rear door locks, something must have moved. I dont know because I did not touch the actual latch. I just touch the rod to connect the actuator. But it seems like I have made the latch child proof for good. People cant open the door from the inside. I have to unlock the driver door for all the door locks to pop up and then it works. Does anybody know what can be happening? I have one panel open and I removed one actuator and still does that. Thanks for any info.
I have one problem thought. Somewhere when I was installing the rear door locks, something must have moved. I dont know because I did not touch the actual latch. I just touch the rod to connect the actuator. But it seems like I have made the latch child proof for good. People cant open the door from the inside. I have to unlock the driver door for all the door locks to pop up and then it works. Does anybody know what can be happening? I have one panel open and I removed one actuator and still does that. Thanks for any info.
ORIGINAL: eltupac
Found out that it was this way all along.
Found out that it was this way all along.
From what I was told, almost all cars come like that. Something to do with safety. You know these kids now-a-days, they just cant wait till the car stops from 70mph. They just have to jump out.
www.alarmsellout.com
If you do not have an alarm system that opens door locks, you will find that the actuators make the locks stiffer. Just to let you know. Also, disclaimer: Mine works great, it opens all doors when I use my aftermarket alarm, but I did this post as an example of what worked on mine. You are free to try out any other door location or aftermarket company you want and of course you are solely responsible for what you do to your truck. Dont mean to be a stiff about it, but you know, you can get sued for breathing.
Here goes:
You have to remove all kick panels(For front), and both side panels where the seat belts are(For rear doors only). To do this you have remove the bolt that is on the floor that holds the seatbelt belt down, then the handle on the top or like I call it "the oh-sh bar". You have to have hex bolt removers and star removers.(Again, for rear doors).
Drilling into the metal is required.
FRONT DOOR:
The front door location of the actuator. This was pretty easy. The wires go throught the door jamb easy since there is a hole on the plastic clip that attaches to the cabin.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/CC2EF154E60A4602B61F3B942ED5CAD7.jpg[/IMG]
This is the view of the actuator from the inside of the front door. A little fuzzy, but I am no good wth Macros.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/F31E3B8301A34E0C8A05FD6A22677E4C.jpg[/IMG]
REAR DOOR:
This is the rear driver side door. I place the actuator to the left of the hole where the panel hook goes. The hook is not that big and there is clearance for the actuator to go up and down. I had to bend the rod to make it parallel to the lock rod.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/DEC927128AED4476940C214B424358F9.jpg[/IMG]
See here, again a little fuzzy. That is where I bent the rod. I tested with panels on and works.
The tube has two clips that holds it to the cabin. I removed it and saw that there is no room for the actuators' wire to go through, so I found a tight squeeze through the clip and it worked. I had to be carefull not to cut the wire.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/A6B18B9F62CE45AAA084F240AB9FAFF2.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the clip.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/E859206CE71B4D4FA70C926C0D5707FD.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the passenger's rear door.
Now I passed the power wire through the hole of the hood opener wire that is located on the firewall. This was the best spot because it reached perfectly to the battery. You can try and find the power wire from the electrical harness under the dash, but the wire already has a prong for the battery. Behind the driver kick panel under the foam, there is a screw that is ground. I ran the negative from the control module to that screw. NOW MAKE SURE THAT THE MODULE GROUND IS CONNECTED FIRST BEFORE CONNECTING THE POSITIVE. I thought I burned my module when the ground fell off. It didn't, but to be safe connect the ground well.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
www.alarmsellout.com
If you do not have an alarm system that opens door locks, you will find that the actuators make the locks stiffer. Just to let you know. Also, disclaimer: Mine works great, it opens all doors when I use my aftermarket alarm, but I did this post as an example of what worked on mine. You are free to try out any other door location or aftermarket company you want and of course you are solely responsible for what you do to your truck. Dont mean to be a stiff about it, but you know, you can get sued for breathing.
Here goes:
You have to remove all kick panels(For front), and both side panels where the seat belts are(For rear doors only). To do this you have remove the bolt that is on the floor that holds the seatbelt belt down, then the handle on the top or like I call it "the oh-sh bar". You have to have hex bolt removers and star removers.(Again, for rear doors).
Drilling into the metal is required.
FRONT DOOR:
The front door location of the actuator. This was pretty easy. The wires go throught the door jamb easy since there is a hole on the plastic clip that attaches to the cabin.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/CC2EF154E60A4602B61F3B942ED5CAD7.jpg[/IMG]
This is the view of the actuator from the inside of the front door. A little fuzzy, but I am no good wth Macros.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/F31E3B8301A34E0C8A05FD6A22677E4C.jpg[/IMG]
REAR DOOR:
This is the rear driver side door. I place the actuator to the left of the hole where the panel hook goes. The hook is not that big and there is clearance for the actuator to go up and down. I had to bend the rod to make it parallel to the lock rod.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/DEC927128AED4476940C214B424358F9.jpg[/IMG]
See here, again a little fuzzy. That is where I bent the rod. I tested with panels on and works.
The tube has two clips that holds it to the cabin. I removed it and saw that there is no room for the actuators' wire to go through, so I found a tight squeeze through the clip and it worked. I had to be carefull not to cut the wire.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/A6B18B9F62CE45AAA084F240AB9FAFF2.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the clip.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/E859206CE71B4D4FA70C926C0D5707FD.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the passenger's rear door.
Now I passed the power wire through the hole of the hood opener wire that is located on the firewall. This was the best spot because it reached perfectly to the battery. You can try and find the power wire from the electrical harness under the dash, but the wire already has a prong for the battery. Behind the driver kick panel under the foam, there is a screw that is ground. I ran the negative from the control module to that screw. NOW MAKE SURE THAT THE MODULE GROUND IS CONNECTED FIRST BEFORE CONNECTING THE POSITIVE. I thought I burned my module when the ground fell off. It didn't, but to be safe connect the ground well.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Trending Topics
Just in case this another of the rear for the door jamb. You guys dont need it because, you want front. The front is easy to pass wires through the door jamb. The front doors are the easiest to do. Pass the wires behind the console underneath the flooring. The wire harness' length is perfect.
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/F6D3684138B6451BA9330D753B1CD712.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/18195/F6D3684138B6451BA9330D753B1CD712.jpg[/IMG]
One kit comes with 4 actuators, control box and harness. So only one purchase. I did buy their alarm system. It works well also, the only problem was trying to get an alarm place to install it. Almost nobody wanted to do it because of warranty issues since it wasnt their brand. I can see their point. What I could not understand why charge $120-$150 to install it when their cheapest alarm cost $60 installed. Anyway, the hardest thing to do was to cut the starter power line cause I was worried I might ruin it, but it didn't. The light on the remote is not that good, actually you cant see crap at night with the light. I havent tried the remote starter since I have manual and you will have to rig it with relays. All other things work fine. I have seen other ones that have cooler remotes with clock and crap like that. Look around in ebay, that's where I found that site.



