37x12.5-17 on a 17x7.5?
I couldn't find a thread on "stock w/big meat", please post a link as I would be interested in reading.
Don't belive you can stuff 37's w/out rubbing. Not sure on earlier posts if you're ok with the rubbing or not.
Don't belive you can stuff 37's w/out rubbing. Not sure on earlier posts if you're ok with the rubbing or not.
Well you go get you some 37s. But I can tell you for a fact - and I verified with the guy lives across the street from me - he could NOT get 37s to fit without trimming on his 2500 and that was with 4.5" backspaced wheels.
NOW - and this could very well be the difference. ALL 37" tires ARE NOT 37" tires (nor are all 35" or 33"). I've personally measured tires that were stamped 33" on the side at as little as 31 1/4"! My "35 inch" Cepeks measure 34 1/4". BUT SOME ARE or are close. The 32" Nittos on my Grand Cherokee measure just a hair - like 1/4" shy of 32".
I have a good friend with Interco tires (I think TRXUS, but I'm not sure) that say 37x13.5 on the side that barely measure over 35". Now they would fit your stock height 2500.
You may find your chosen brand of 37s fit and you may not. All we are trying to do is give you a heads up so you don't come back bi)ching that you spent $$$$$ and they don't fit...
NOW - and this could very well be the difference. ALL 37" tires ARE NOT 37" tires (nor are all 35" or 33"). I've personally measured tires that were stamped 33" on the side at as little as 31 1/4"! My "35 inch" Cepeks measure 34 1/4". BUT SOME ARE or are close. The 32" Nittos on my Grand Cherokee measure just a hair - like 1/4" shy of 32".
I have a good friend with Interco tires (I think TRXUS, but I'm not sure) that say 37x13.5 on the side that barely measure over 35". Now they would fit your stock height 2500.
You may find your chosen brand of 37s fit and you may not. All we are trying to do is give you a heads up so you don't come back bi)ching that you spent $$$$$ and they don't fit...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Jun 11, 2012 at 03:32 PM.
Well you go get you some 37s. But I can tell you for a fact - and I verified with the guy lives across the street from me - he could NOT get 37s to fit without trimming on his 2500 and that was with 4.5" backspaced wheels.
NOW - and this could very well be the difference. ALL 37" tires ARE NOT 37" tires (nor are all 35" or 33"). I've personally measured tires that were stamped 33" on the side at as little as 31 1/5"! My "35 inch" Cepeks measure 34 1/4". BUT SOME ARE or are close. The 32" Nittos on my Grand Cherokee measure just a hair - like 1/4" shy of 32".
I have a good friend with Interco tires (I think TRXUS, but I'm not sure) that say 37x13.5 on the side that barely measure over 35". Now they would fit your stock height 2500.
You may find your chosen brand of 37s fit and you may not. All we are trying to do is give you a heads up so you don't come back bi)ching that you spent $$$$$ and they don't fit...
NOW - and this could very well be the difference. ALL 37" tires ARE NOT 37" tires (nor are all 35" or 33"). I've personally measured tires that were stamped 33" on the side at as little as 31 1/5"! My "35 inch" Cepeks measure 34 1/4". BUT SOME ARE or are close. The 32" Nittos on my Grand Cherokee measure just a hair - like 1/4" shy of 32".
I have a good friend with Interco tires (I think TRXUS, but I'm not sure) that say 37x13.5 on the side that barely measure over 35". Now they would fit your stock height 2500.
You may find your chosen brand of 37s fit and you may not. All we are trying to do is give you a heads up so you don't come back bi)ching that you spent $$$$$ and they don't fit...
One other thing you have to realize is that MOST tire companies list "measured height" un-mounted. Mounted, with the weight of the vehicle it will be lower.
My Cepeks are listed on the company site at 34.9" and measure 34.25" with 80% max PSI, mounted on my truck. That's well over a half inch difference.
My Cepeks are listed on the company site at 34.9" and measure 34.25" with 80% max PSI, mounted on my truck. That's well over a half inch difference.
One other thing you have to realize is that MOST tire companies list "measured height" un-mounted. Mounted, with the weight of the vehicle it will be lower.
My Cepeks are listed on the company site at 34.9" and measure 34.25" with 80% max PSI, mounted on my truck. That's well over a half inch difference.
My Cepeks are listed on the company site at 34.9" and measure 34.25" with 80% max PSI, mounted on my truck. That's well over a half inch difference.
In a nutshell:
M/T has large individual blocks with large voids, this yields maximum traction in soft conditions (mud, deep snow) and the voids allows the debris to be slung off of the tire so they don't cake up. Disadvantages are poor traction on hard conditions to include wet and ice covered roads, faster treadwear and generally poorer handling on the highway.
A/T is pretty much a compromise of varying degrees (depending on brand) between a highway tread and a mud tread. Again, there are aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the M/T side of the scale and less aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the highway side of the scale. As a rule they won't be as good in mud, but perform better on pavement and tend to last longer - again, as a rule the more the tire trends to a highway tread, the longer it will last. Obviously, there are exceptions. Some higher end A/Ts that are pretty aggressive use higher end compounds that can make them very good on pavement and last like a true highway tire.
In recent years, you can also throw in the "A/T - M/T Hybrids". So you have a class of tire that sits right between an A/T and an M/T. I run one of these (Dick Cepek FCII).
The Yokos I don't know too much about, none that I can recall seeing in my circles, which tends to be a more hardcore work around the farm/hunting/fishing crowd. I used to have a pair on a motorcycle I had once.
Sounds to me like you should be looking at a "D" or "E" load range (having a 3/4 ton truck) in a fairly road friendly, A/T tire. In the brands I've used and/or are very familiar with this would be the Nitto Terra Grappler, Toyo Open Country A/T, Mickey Thompson ATZ, Cooper AT3. There are obviously others out there...
M/T has large individual blocks with large voids, this yields maximum traction in soft conditions (mud, deep snow) and the voids allows the debris to be slung off of the tire so they don't cake up. Disadvantages are poor traction on hard conditions to include wet and ice covered roads, faster treadwear and generally poorer handling on the highway.
A/T is pretty much a compromise of varying degrees (depending on brand) between a highway tread and a mud tread. Again, there are aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the M/T side of the scale and less aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the highway side of the scale. As a rule they won't be as good in mud, but perform better on pavement and tend to last longer - again, as a rule the more the tire trends to a highway tread, the longer it will last. Obviously, there are exceptions. Some higher end A/Ts that are pretty aggressive use higher end compounds that can make them very good on pavement and last like a true highway tire.
In recent years, you can also throw in the "A/T - M/T Hybrids". So you have a class of tire that sits right between an A/T and an M/T. I run one of these (Dick Cepek FCII).
The Yokos I don't know too much about, none that I can recall seeing in my circles, which tends to be a more hardcore work around the farm/hunting/fishing crowd. I used to have a pair on a motorcycle I had once.
Sounds to me like you should be looking at a "D" or "E" load range (having a 3/4 ton truck) in a fairly road friendly, A/T tire. In the brands I've used and/or are very familiar with this would be the Nitto Terra Grappler, Toyo Open Country A/T, Mickey Thompson ATZ, Cooper AT3. There are obviously others out there...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Jun 11, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
+1 on everything Hammer stated.
I had yoko geo's on my wife's rides for prolly close to 6-8 years, never had an issue. Good tire for the price.
Hammer points out differences in heights of various manufacturers, and they probably have a spec'd vehicle weight at a spec'd air pressure for dimensions. That can change the measurement from ground to level top height.
I had yoko geo's on my wife's rides for prolly close to 6-8 years, never had an issue. Good tire for the price.
Hammer points out differences in heights of various manufacturers, and they probably have a spec'd vehicle weight at a spec'd air pressure for dimensions. That can change the measurement from ground to level top height.
In a nutshell:
M/T has large individual blocks with large voids, this yields maximum traction in soft conditions (mud, deep snow) and the voids allows the debris to be slung off of the tire so they don't cake up. Disadvantages are poor traction on hard conditions to include wet and ice covered roads, faster treadwear and generally poorer handling on the highway.
A/T is pretty much a compromise of varying degrees (depending on brand) between a highway tread and a mud tread. Again, there are aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the M/T side of the scale and less aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the highway side of the scale. As a rule they won't be as good in mud, but perform better on pavement and tend to last longer - again, as a rule the more the tire trends to a highway tread, the longer it will last. Obviously, there are exceptions. Some higher end A/Ts that are pretty aggressive use higher end compounds that can make them very good on pavement and last like a true highway tire.
In recent years, you can also throw in the "A/T - M/T Hybrids". So you have a class of tire that sits right between an A/T and an M/T. I run one of these (Dick Cepek FCII).
The Yokos I don't know too much about, none that I can recall seeing in my circles, which tends to be a more hardcore work around the farm/hunting/fishing crowd. I used to have a pair on a motorcycle I had once.
Sounds to me like you should be looking at a "D" or "E" load range (having a 3/4 ton truck) in a fairly road friendly, A/T tire. In the brands I've used and/or are very familiar with this would be the Nitto Terra Grappler, Toyo Open Country A/T, Mickey Thompson ATZ, Cooper AT3. There are obviously others out there...
M/T has large individual blocks with large voids, this yields maximum traction in soft conditions (mud, deep snow) and the voids allows the debris to be slung off of the tire so they don't cake up. Disadvantages are poor traction on hard conditions to include wet and ice covered roads, faster treadwear and generally poorer handling on the highway.
A/T is pretty much a compromise of varying degrees (depending on brand) between a highway tread and a mud tread. Again, there are aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the M/T side of the scale and less aggressive A/Ts that will perform more on the highway side of the scale. As a rule they won't be as good in mud, but perform better on pavement and tend to last longer - again, as a rule the more the tire trends to a highway tread, the longer it will last. Obviously, there are exceptions. Some higher end A/Ts that are pretty aggressive use higher end compounds that can make them very good on pavement and last like a true highway tire.
In recent years, you can also throw in the "A/T - M/T Hybrids". So you have a class of tire that sits right between an A/T and an M/T. I run one of these (Dick Cepek FCII).
The Yokos I don't know too much about, none that I can recall seeing in my circles, which tends to be a more hardcore work around the farm/hunting/fishing crowd. I used to have a pair on a motorcycle I had once.
Sounds to me like you should be looking at a "D" or "E" load range (having a 3/4 ton truck) in a fairly road friendly, A/T tire. In the brands I've used and/or are very familiar with this would be the Nitto Terra Grappler, Toyo Open Country A/T, Mickey Thompson ATZ, Cooper AT3. There are obviously others out there...
a the tires are 36.8 unloaded and 36.3 loaded.
my psi is 50 all around, u guys think thats to much?.



