question bout marvel mystery oil??
#1
question bout marvel mystery oil??
Never used it before,going to change my oil shorty in 05 hemi but wanted to use marvel mystery oil first.. my question is, it a good idea to use? any pro's or con's? also how much do i add and how many miles should run with it until i actually change the oil? truck has 79,000 miles if that even matters..
thanks guys in advance
shawn
thanks guys in advance
shawn
#2
I don't own a Hemi or even a 3rd Gen at all. But, I think that simply keeping up on maintenance and keeping your fluids changed and fresh is more beneficial than using these types of products. I don't have scientific facts to back that up. I think that using really thin oil like MMO would be more likely to churn up any sludge you might have, possible causing an issue. Just my $0.02.
#3
I don't own a Hemi or even a 3rd Gen at all. But, I think that simply keeping up on maintenance and keeping your fluids changed and fresh is more beneficial than using these types of products. I don't have scientific facts to back that up. I think that using really thin oil like MMO would be more likely to churn up any sludge you might have, possible causing an issue. Just my $0.02.
#4
I used that chit once on an Olds 307 I had in a Regency 98. It ruined the engine although some of that was my fault. It didnt what it advertised and cleaned all the carbon and whatever else out of the heads and engine. The problem was it cleaned it so good that all the crap it broke loose clogged my oil pump and drain holes in the block where the oil goes back into the pan and caused me to spin 2 bearings on the rods. By the time I knew it I was far away from home and I barely made it back before the rods were knocking so badly it barely would run. I pulled the engine and intake and that crap was so thick in the valley you could literally scoop it out with a spoon.
#5
I used that chit once on an Olds 307 I had in a Regency 98. It ruined the engine although some of that was my fault. It didnt what it advertised and cleaned all the carbon and whatever else out of the heads and engine. The problem was it cleaned it so good that all the crap it broke loose clogged my oil pump and drain holes in the block where the oil goes back into the pan and caused me to spin 2 bearings on the rods. By the time I knew it I was far away from home and I barely made it back before the rods were knocking so badly it barely would run. I pulled the engine and intake and that crap was so thick in the valley you could literally scoop it out with a spoon.
#6
I think maybe you seen my post HERE that is part of THIS thread.
I've used that stuff on every car I've owned, never an issue. If you've severly neglected your engine like Weedahoe did to his Olds 307, use 1/2qt but only allow your engine to run at idle for 20min with the engine fully warm. THEN, the next oil change run 1/2qt in the engine for a short trip. THEN do a few hundred miles on the 3rd change. Obviuosly if your engine is that dirty, you wouldnt want to run 3kmi before changing the oil.
Here's what I have done before on very sludged up engines nefore with perfect results everytime.
1)With engine at operating temp, pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Let engine run at idle for 20min.
2)Do a complete oil change after engine cools a little.
3)Drive on that oil change for 1,000mi and then pour in another 1/2qt of MMO. Drive for 20-30min with rpms fluctuating.
4)Do another oil change.
5)Drive again for 1,000miles and once again pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Drive a few hundred miles and do another oil change. After that, your oil will be damn clean for 3,000miles. So, you can do normal scheduled oil changes.
You'll hear alot of people saying...if your oil isn't dirty, it's not doing it's job. To a point yes, but that means you've neglected oil changes previously OR your engine is just filthy inside. Dirty oil means dirt! Dirt that snuck past the filter. The cleaner the oil, the better your engine longevity will be!!!
BTW, i JUST did the above 3 oil change method to a 1998 Olds 3.8L that I use for my beater. It has 63kmi on it. YES, the very first MMO change the valves were getting stuck and made a knocking noise. I did another heavy MMO rinse and the engine is super clean and purrs like a kittten. Just did my 3kmi oil change and it was very clean.
Doing a few oil changes to slowly flush your engine is going to be your safest bet. Using engine flushes is bad and will give you instant results for the engine graveyard like Weedahoe did.
sorry weed, you just made a good reference for me is all. Not trying to poke fun at ya. ;-)
I've used that stuff on every car I've owned, never an issue. If you've severly neglected your engine like Weedahoe did to his Olds 307, use 1/2qt but only allow your engine to run at idle for 20min with the engine fully warm. THEN, the next oil change run 1/2qt in the engine for a short trip. THEN do a few hundred miles on the 3rd change. Obviuosly if your engine is that dirty, you wouldnt want to run 3kmi before changing the oil.
Here's what I have done before on very sludged up engines nefore with perfect results everytime.
1)With engine at operating temp, pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Let engine run at idle for 20min.
2)Do a complete oil change after engine cools a little.
3)Drive on that oil change for 1,000mi and then pour in another 1/2qt of MMO. Drive for 20-30min with rpms fluctuating.
4)Do another oil change.
5)Drive again for 1,000miles and once again pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Drive a few hundred miles and do another oil change. After that, your oil will be damn clean for 3,000miles. So, you can do normal scheduled oil changes.
You'll hear alot of people saying...if your oil isn't dirty, it's not doing it's job. To a point yes, but that means you've neglected oil changes previously OR your engine is just filthy inside. Dirty oil means dirt! Dirt that snuck past the filter. The cleaner the oil, the better your engine longevity will be!!!
BTW, i JUST did the above 3 oil change method to a 1998 Olds 3.8L that I use for my beater. It has 63kmi on it. YES, the very first MMO change the valves were getting stuck and made a knocking noise. I did another heavy MMO rinse and the engine is super clean and purrs like a kittten. Just did my 3kmi oil change and it was very clean.
Doing a few oil changes to slowly flush your engine is going to be your safest bet. Using engine flushes is bad and will give you instant results for the engine graveyard like Weedahoe did.
sorry weed, you just made a good reference for me is all. Not trying to poke fun at ya. ;-)
#7
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#8
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My grandfather, a life-long mechanic swore by the stuff. When he passed away, he had about 50 empty cans of the stuff piled up as decoration on the back wall of his garage.
I've never used it in a car or truck, but I'll tell you this about it - I've used it more than once in a water logged ATV engine to take out the water - something about it makes water molecules adhere to it. It's the old redneck trick after you submerge an engine - provided you ain't hydrolocked it to put in straight MMO after pouring all the water out you can get out. Run a couple mins then do 1/2 cheap oil and 1/2 MMO a couple of times letting the engine run a little longer each time until finally going straight oil and changing it once or twice over the next couple of times you run it. Sh*t works GREAT for that.
I'm not much one for adding ANYTHING to my synthetic oils, provided I've had 'em since new and know I have no sludge problems to start with. Now if I bought a used vehicle and wanted to completely clean it out it might be another story...
I've never used it in a car or truck, but I'll tell you this about it - I've used it more than once in a water logged ATV engine to take out the water - something about it makes water molecules adhere to it. It's the old redneck trick after you submerge an engine - provided you ain't hydrolocked it to put in straight MMO after pouring all the water out you can get out. Run a couple mins then do 1/2 cheap oil and 1/2 MMO a couple of times letting the engine run a little longer each time until finally going straight oil and changing it once or twice over the next couple of times you run it. Sh*t works GREAT for that.
I'm not much one for adding ANYTHING to my synthetic oils, provided I've had 'em since new and know I have no sludge problems to start with. Now if I bought a used vehicle and wanted to completely clean it out it might be another story...
#9
I think maybe you seen my post HERE that is part of THIS thread.
I've used that stuff on every car I've owned, never an issue. If you've severly neglected your engine like Weedahoe did to his Olds 307, use 1/2qt but only allow your engine to run at idle for 20min with the engine fully warm. THEN, the next oil change run 1/2qt in the engine for a short trip. THEN do a few hundred miles on the 3rd change. Obviuosly if your engine is that dirty, you wouldnt want to run 3kmi before changing the oil.
Here's what I have done before on very sludged up engines nefore with perfect results everytime.
1)With engine at operating temp, pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Let engine run at idle for 20min.
2)Do a complete oil change after engine cools a little.
3)Drive on that oil change for 1,000mi and then pour in another 1/2qt of MMO. Drive for 20-30min with rpms fluctuating.
4)Do another oil change.
5)Drive again for 1,000miles and once again pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Drive a few hundred miles and do another oil change. After that, your oil will be damn clean for 3,000miles. So, you can do normal scheduled oil changes.
You'll hear alot of people saying...if your oil isn't dirty, it's not doing it's job. To a point yes, but that means you've neglected oil changes previously OR your engine is just filthy inside. Dirty oil means dirt! Dirt that snuck past the filter. The cleaner the oil, the better your engine longevity will be!!!
BTW, i JUST did the above 3 oil change method to a 1998 Olds 3.8L that I use for my beater. It has 63kmi on it. YES, the very first MMO change the valves were getting stuck and made a knocking noise. I did another heavy MMO rinse and the engine is super clean and purrs like a kittten. Just did my 3kmi oil change and it was very clean.
Doing a few oil changes to slowly flush your engine is going to be your safest bet. Using engine flushes is bad and will give you instant results for the engine graveyard like Weedahoe did.
sorry weed, you just made a good reference for me is all. Not trying to poke fun at ya. ;-)
I've used that stuff on every car I've owned, never an issue. If you've severly neglected your engine like Weedahoe did to his Olds 307, use 1/2qt but only allow your engine to run at idle for 20min with the engine fully warm. THEN, the next oil change run 1/2qt in the engine for a short trip. THEN do a few hundred miles on the 3rd change. Obviuosly if your engine is that dirty, you wouldnt want to run 3kmi before changing the oil.
Here's what I have done before on very sludged up engines nefore with perfect results everytime.
1)With engine at operating temp, pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Let engine run at idle for 20min.
2)Do a complete oil change after engine cools a little.
3)Drive on that oil change for 1,000mi and then pour in another 1/2qt of MMO. Drive for 20-30min with rpms fluctuating.
4)Do another oil change.
5)Drive again for 1,000miles and once again pour in 1/2qt of MMO. Drive a few hundred miles and do another oil change. After that, your oil will be damn clean for 3,000miles. So, you can do normal scheduled oil changes.
You'll hear alot of people saying...if your oil isn't dirty, it's not doing it's job. To a point yes, but that means you've neglected oil changes previously OR your engine is just filthy inside. Dirty oil means dirt! Dirt that snuck past the filter. The cleaner the oil, the better your engine longevity will be!!!
BTW, i JUST did the above 3 oil change method to a 1998 Olds 3.8L that I use for my beater. It has 63kmi on it. YES, the very first MMO change the valves were getting stuck and made a knocking noise. I did another heavy MMO rinse and the engine is super clean and purrs like a kittten. Just did my 3kmi oil change and it was very clean.
Doing a few oil changes to slowly flush your engine is going to be your safest bet. Using engine flushes is bad and will give you instant results for the engine graveyard like Weedahoe did.
sorry weed, you just made a good reference for me is all. Not trying to poke fun at ya. ;-)
#10
Not really, unless you pull a valve cover. I'd say just pour in 1/2qt and run engine at operating temps for 20-30min and dump your oil for a fresh change. I bet your oil will be completely black in that short time. with 70kmi, I bet there's build up.