I've got a 2004 2500 5.9 with A/C issues. The original issue was the clutch blew on the compressor. I replaced the compressor and recharged the system. A/C worked for about 3 weeks then started blow hot. At that point I replaced the orphus tube. I purchased an orphus tube from AutoZone with advise that this would fix the issue. This is interesting "stupid" part on my behalf. Once I had the line split at the connection in the passenger side fender, I attempted to remove the orphus tube. I tried for about 5 hours to get that damn thing out of there. After much frustration I reached out to another part supplier CarQuest. I don't think I heard someone laugh so much in a long time when I told him that story. So I then purchased the whole tube with the orphus tube factory installed. It was suggested that I flush the system while I have it apart. After flushing the system I installed the new tube and charged the system. I was getting 45 degrees on the drivers side and around 60 on the passenger side. With this information I considered this done. The next day I had no A/C no would the compressor kick on. Figured I must have a leak so I got some UV leak detector to install. Recharged system but could not get it below 50 degrees on drivers side. Passenger side was sitting at 80 degrees which was a pretty big swing. So I left it due to knowing there was a leak anyway. I ran the truck as usual and would check for with the light for leaks and found none. I left the truck over night and checked in the morning. I found no leaks but there was no low side pressure. I looked the system over for hours with that UV light and found no signs of a leak.

There is the background of this story, anyone have any advice? I'm not an A/C so I had a few other people take a look. I'm still left with no A/C and I live in San Antonio, TX. Please help, the wife is driving me crazy...lol..

 

To help you out, this is the BS that the dealer tried to pull on me. They told me (and in writing if you want to see it), that there is a 10 degree difference between the passenger and drivers side coming out of the vents. I have dual A/C controls. I told them that the recirculating door was broke, they tried to say it wasn't. Fought all the way through the warranty period. Did some research, and found replacement doors. Look up http://www.heatertreater.net/?gclid=...FeHm7AodGB8A6A. These doors, if you need one will be the LAST door you will have to buy. When I pulled the fan, there was in fact the pin from the door in the squirrel cage. Also, you really cant charge a Dodge A/C product like you can a GM. On my 2004 2500 diesel, it takes 1# 14 oz, and on a gas burner 1# 10 oz....no more no less. You can't use the ole methods that we've used for many years (I've charged hundreds in the past). I took my truck to get it serviced, they vacuumed ALL of the coolant out, checked for vacuum, and filled it with the PROPER amount of coolant. Cost...$50.00 to vacate system, and $30.00/#... I got a discount as the machine was broken, and had to return...Cost me $72.00, and worth every penny of it. Hope this helps. Make sure your fan clutch is working properly, if the fan is defective, the head pressure can exceed its limits, and blow a hose or the compressor. I need to replace my fan clutch. If the clutch is bad...don't sit in traffic with the A/C on....on the open road there is enough air passing through the condenser to keep it cool. I just got back from a 800 mile trip, without any problems, I just had to turn the A/C off when stopping in traffic.

 

First, do you have dual zone or single? In the mean time I am going to assume dual...

Break this problem into two parts; first is the a/c portion of the system and second why do you have significantly different temps from each side?

For the a/c system, you say you didn't find leaks but had no low side pressure. Did you check both high and low sides or just low and was the compressor operating at the time? If you had no low side pressure I am going to assume you had no high side pressure for now and tell you there must be a leak. Did you remember to use the light to check the evaporator coil inside the ducting under the dash for leaks; it is commonly forgotten? Also, the same for the condenser in front of the radiator and the compressor too. I bet you do find a leak as the refrigerant & pressure you put in had to go somewhere.

Once you get the a/c part solved then you can get the temp control problem taken care of. It may just be poor performance of the cooling system due to the "leak". If not it may be the blend door on the passenger side providing too much warm air to mix in and will likely turn out to be an issue with the door itself. Check this by running the fan on high and both zones full cool with the A/C off and recirc off then check the temp from each side. If the passenger is still much higher you are getting additional hot air and the blend door controls that. Remember there will always be a difference side to side due to the distance the air travels in the ducting system so take that into consideration.

Hope this helps get you going and please report back any additional info you can.