2006 Ram trailer plug not working
Yes, i get constant 12v and continuity to ground from the plug on the bumper (round, 7 pin connector).
Thanks, i will double check the fuses. Is it difficult to check the underside of the TIPM?
The issue in that link sounds similar to mine, only that guy at least had some of his lights working. This TIPM thing is frustrating. I was up at the dealership today getting some new keys programmed and was explaining my problem to the service manager and he repeatedly told me that you couldn't "flash" the TIPM. I suggested that the only common link to all the probelms i've been having is the TIPM........he just dismissed it.
Oddly enough, one of my other problems (no drivers side low beam) has magically fixed itself after the tech cleared a code from the computer when he was programming my keys.......
Thanks, i will double check the fuses. Is it difficult to check the underside of the TIPM?
The issue in that link sounds similar to mine, only that guy at least had some of his lights working. This TIPM thing is frustrating. I was up at the dealership today getting some new keys programmed and was explaining my problem to the service manager and he repeatedly told me that you couldn't "flash" the TIPM. I suggested that the only common link to all the probelms i've been having is the TIPM........he just dismissed it.
Oddly enough, one of my other problems (no drivers side low beam) has magically fixed itself after the tech cleared a code from the computer when he was programming my keys.......
I am re-posting the TSB including the repair procedure. It states to erase and reprogram the TIPM.
NUMBER: 08-021-06 REV. A
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: October 13, 2006
SUBJECT:
TIPM Flash - DTC's Indicating Short Circuits In The Wiring On The Trailer Or No Engine
Crank With DTC P1277 - Starter Control Circuit 2 Low
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves a discussion and reprogramming of the Totally Integrated Power
Module (TIPM).
MODELS:
2006 (DR/DH/D1) Ram Truck
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built prior to April 03, 2006 (MDH 0403XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Customer may experience any of the following TIPM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's):
B166B - Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit Low. Trailer harness left lamp circuit
is shorted to ground.
B166C - Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit High. Trailer harness left lamp circuit
is shorted to battery voltage.
B178C - Left Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit Over Current. Trailer harness left
lamp circuit is intermittently grounding.
B166F - Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit Low. Trailer harness right lamp
circuit is shorted to ground.
B1670 - Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit High. Trailer harness right lamp
circuit is shorted to battery voltage.
B166E - Right Trailer Tow Lamp Control Circuit Over Current. Trailer harness right
lamp circuit is intermittently grounding.
B1667 - Back Up Lamp Feed Low. Trailer harness back up circuit is shorted to
NUMBER: 08-021-06 REV. A
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: October 13, 2006
ground.
B2215 - Front Control Module Internal (TIPM). An internal fault code counter has
exceeded its limit of 250 counts and one or more electrical outputs controlled by the
TIPM have been disabled.
P1277 - Starter Control Circuit 2 Low (TIPM). The output feed current to the starter
solenoid has exceeded the upper current limit of 75 amps. This may result in a
no-crank condition.
DISCUSSION:
DTC's B1667, B166B, B166E, B166F, B178C and B2215:
1. These DTC's indicate that a (hard or intermittent) short circuit to GROUND exists in
the wiring of one or more of the TRAILER electrical harness circuits.
2. The TIPM retries the output on each ignition cycle or request (brake or turn signal
activation) in an attempt to enable the output in case the fault is intermittent.
3. DTC's B1667, B166B, B166E, B166F, and B178C may occur individually or in
combination with each other.
4. For the two over current DTC's, B166E and B178C, the fault is set when the TIPM has
detected electrical loads on the circuit greater than 15 amps.
5. If DTC B2215 is also present with one of more of the above DTC's, then this fault code
indicates that the TIPM has detected the faulted condition (short) on one or more of
the trailer circuits more than 250 times. When detected more than 250 times, the TIPM
disables the electrical output (turns off) to the respective faulty trailer circuit to protect
that circuit and the system.
6. Short circuits can be intermittent and will require diagnosis and repair of the trailer wire
harness.
7. Once the faulty circuit has been repaired, the dealer must use a scan tool to enable
the respective trailer circuit that was previously been turned off (disabled) due to DTC
B2215.
8. The new TIPM software raises the TIPM circuit trigger point from 15 amps. to 20
amps.
DTC's B166C and B1670:
1. These DTC's indicate that a short circuit to BATTERY voltage (12 volts) exists in the
wiring of one of the TRAILER electrical harness circuits.
DTC B2215 - Front Control Module (TIPM):
1. This fault code occurs when the TIPM detects a short (to ground or to battery) on one
of the trailer circuits more than 250 times.
2. When B2215 is present with one of the above trailer circuit faults the TIPM will turn off
(disable) the respective faulty trailer circuit or circuits.
3. This internal fault DOES NOT mean that the TIPM module is defective.
4. The TIPM memory can be cleared, this action will turn on a previously disabled trailer
circuit. If possible, the fault in the circuit should be repaired first before clearing the
TIPM memory.
5. DO NOT replace the TIPM without first attempting to clear the TIPM memory.
6. The dealer will need a scan tool to clear the TIPM memory.
7. If one or more of the TIPM outputs are disabled due to one of these conditions, normal
operation can be restored a maximum of five (5) times.
8. The TIPM will be rendered inoperative on the sixth attempt to clear the TIPM memory.
At this point the TIPM must be replaced. The DTC(s) that indicates the problem and
DTC 2215 will both remain ACTIVE. Neither fault code will can be cleared at this point.
08-021-06 REV. A -2-
DTC P1277 - Starter Control Circuit 2 Low (TIPM):
1. The TIPM monitors the output current to the starter solenoid for over-current
conditions.
2. The DTC is set when the output current to starter solenoid exceeds 75 amps.
3. On trucks equipped with a diesel engine, there may be times in cold climates when it is
normal for the starter solenoid current to exceed 75 amps.
4. If DTC B2215 is present in addition to DTC P1277, then a starter solenoid circuit
over-current condition has been detected by the TIPM module more than 250 times. At
this point, the circuit to the starter solenoid is turned off until the TIPM memory is
cleared.
5. The new TIPM software raises the TIPM current trigger point for DTC P1277 from 75
amps. to 100 amps.
DIAGNOSIS:
If any of the DTC's listed above are present, perform the Repair Procedure.
NOTE: The Repair Procedure (TIPM flash) currently can not be performed using the
StarMOBILE™ in its STANDALONE mode. Use the StarSCAN™ to perform
the Repair Procedure, or use the StarMOBILE™ in its CONNECTED mode to
perform the Repair Procedure.
SPECIAL TOOLS / EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
NPN Battery Charger
CH9401 StarSCAN® Tool
CH9404 StarSCAN® Vehicle Cable
CH9409 StarSCAN® Documentation Kit
CH9410 StarSCAN® Ethernet Cable, 12 ft.
CH9412 StarSCAN® Software Update Device Kit
TechCONNECT PC or equivalent
REPAIR PROCEDURE - USING THE INTERNET TO RETRIEVE THE FLASH FILE:
NOTE: Before performing this Repair Procedure, the operating software in the
StarSCAN®; must be programmed with software release level 7.02 SP1 or
higher. The software release level is visible in the blue header at the top of
the StarSCAN® screen.
NOTE: The StarSCAN® diagnostic scan tool fully supports Internet connectivity.
However, to take advantage of this feature you must first configure the
StarSCAN® for your dealership's network. Make sure the StarSCAN® is
configured to the dealership's network before proceeding. For instruction on
setting up your StarSCAN® for the dealer's network refer to either:
“DealerCONNECT > Service > StarSCAN and StarMOBILE tools > Online
Documentation”, or refer to the StarSCAN® Quick Start Networking Guide.
The StarSCAN® Quick Start Networking Guide is also available on the
www.dcctools.com website under the "Download Center".
-3- 08-021-06 REV. A
NOTE: The Repair Procedure (TIPM flash) currently can not be performed using the
StarMOBILE™ in its STANDALONE mode. Use the StarSCAN™ to perform
the Repair Procedure, or use the StarMOBILE™ in its CONNECTED mode to
perform the Repair Procedure.
NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted.
1. Open the hood and install a battery charger. Using a voltmeter, verify that the charging
rate provides 13.2 - 13.5 volts. Set the battery charger to continuous charge. Do not
allow the charger to time out during the flash process. Remove the charger from the
battery when the flash process is complete.
NOTE: Do not allow the charging voltage to climb above 13.5 volts during the flash
process.
2. Connect the CH9410 StarSCAN® ethernet cable to the StarSCAN® and the dealer's
network drop.
3. Connect the CH9404 StarSCAN® vehicle cable to the StarSCAN® and the vehicle.
4. Power ON the StarSCAN®.
5. Select “ECU View”
6. Touch the screen to highlight the TIPMCGW in the list of modules.
7. Select “More Options”
8. Select “ECU Flash”
9. Record the part number at the top of the “Flash TIPMCGW” screen for later reference.
10. Select “Browse for New File”. Follow the on screen instructions.
11. Highlight the appropriate calibration then select “Download to Scantool”.
12. Select “Close” after the download is complete, then select “Back”.
13. Highlight the listed calibration.
14. Select “Update Controller”. Follow on screen instructions.
15. When the update is complete, select “OK”.
16. Verify the part number at the top of the “Flash TIPMCGW” screen has updated to the
new part number.
NOTE: Due to the TIPMCGW programming procedure, a DTC may be set in other
modules (PCM, TCM, BCM, MIC, SKREEM, etc.) within the vehicle, if so
equipped. Some DTC's may cause the MIL to illuminate. From the “Home”
screen select “System View”. Then select “All DTCs”. Press “Clear All Stored
DTCs” if there are any DTCs shown on the list.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Labor Operation No: 18-89-01-11
Erase And Reprogram Totally
Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
I have an 06 Ram 2500 diesel that I just purchased. I get 12v and ground at the trailer plug but nothing else. Any ideas? I'm in a bit of a tight spot here as i'm leaving on Friday for a long road trip and i need this rig to tow my Jeep.
Is there a relay or fuse that could be bad and cause all of this? Checked everything under the hood and it seems ok.
Thoughts?
Is there a relay or fuse that could be bad and cause all of this? Checked everything under the hood and it seems ok.
Thoughts?
Giviner,
I'd have to agree with MoparPaul, you may want to inquire further with your Dodge dealer, have the vehicle diagnosed and ask about the bulletin to see if it applies to your vehicle.
If you need additional assistance you can PM me your VIN# and the name of your servicing dealer.
THanks a bunch folks, i appreciate the help. I just called Chrysler back and the guy has changed his tune slightly. He is now saying that they can absolutely reprogram the TIPM module, but he doesn't think that will solve my problem. Before I bring it in tonight i am going to double check all my fuses and check the wires coming out the back of the TIPM module just to ensure they are not getting any power. I will print out the TSB and bring it with me too.
Not sure if it will solve my problem, but at least then i can eliminate it as the issue. They are squeezing me in tomorrow so hopefully by tomorrow night i'll be able to let you know if this was successful.
On that note, lets assume for a second that this doesn't work for whatever reason. Do you think that I would be able to jumper all my wires from the tail-light circuits without causing the module to freak out from too much current draw? That is my last resort at this point.
Thanks
Not sure if it will solve my problem, but at least then i can eliminate it as the issue. They are squeezing me in tomorrow so hopefully by tomorrow night i'll be able to let you know if this was successful.
On that note, lets assume for a second that this doesn't work for whatever reason. Do you think that I would be able to jumper all my wires from the tail-light circuits without causing the module to freak out from too much current draw? That is my last resort at this point.
Thanks
I didn't try the power at the smaller plug, as I understand from the wiring diagrams it's just spliced into the main harness a few feet back from the 7 pin connector.
I suppose it could be a bad splice........just figured all of them wouldn't go bad at the same time.
Going to confirm no power coming from the TIPM today before taking it in.
I suppose it could be a bad splice........just figured all of them wouldn't go bad at the same time.
Going to confirm no power coming from the TIPM today before taking it in.
Alright guys here's the scoop.........i'm about to pull my hair out and have a brain aneurism here. I didn't take the truck up to Chrysler, i tested the TIPM when i got home and found that all the wires that were supposed to get power, were getting power. I even went and re-checked the trailer harness and magically it had power now. Ok great....must have messed up my testing somehow last night.....problem is there is still no lights working on the trailer. Not a single one.
I tested the connector on the trailer side and it's all getting voltage. Tested a few of the wires on the trailer side and they all have voltage as they should...........still no lights working.
It gets better...........i pull my wife's 2010 grand cherokee up next to it and plug it in........voila, all the lights turn on. Check my truck again, still nothing.
But wait! This is where the plot thickens. I pull the truck into my neighbours driveway and decide to try hooking up to his trailer to see if i'm losing my mind or not........and sure enough, all the lights turn on. So i'm baffled. Does my truck just not like this trailer? Or is there something in the way the Grand Chero is wired vs the truck that the electronics in the truck don't like. Or could there be something in the way the trailer is wired?
I'm at a loss............anyone have any suggestions at this point? I'm up for any and all ideas.
I tested the connector on the trailer side and it's all getting voltage. Tested a few of the wires on the trailer side and they all have voltage as they should...........still no lights working.
It gets better...........i pull my wife's 2010 grand cherokee up next to it and plug it in........voila, all the lights turn on. Check my truck again, still nothing.
But wait! This is where the plot thickens. I pull the truck into my neighbours driveway and decide to try hooking up to his trailer to see if i'm losing my mind or not........and sure enough, all the lights turn on. So i'm baffled. Does my truck just not like this trailer? Or is there something in the way the Grand Chero is wired vs the truck that the electronics in the truck don't like. Or could there be something in the way the trailer is wired?
I'm at a loss............anyone have any suggestions at this point? I'm up for any and all ideas.
Are your trailer ground wires getting good ground while plugged in? Since you have proper voltage throughout the trailer wiring when plugged in possibly your specific outlet and trailer plug have a bad ground connection? Pull a bulb and stick a test light in on the hot side of the socket and see if it lights up to ground side... If it doesnt, try a known good ground to see if it lights up. If you have voltage at the hot sides of your sockets and it works on the wifes jeep, and your truck powers your neighbors trailer just fine... It's gotta be where the grounds interface in the plugs.
Last edited by Dead2Fall; Aug 29, 2012 at 11:58 PM.
Thanks dead2fall, i will check that tomorrow. However when i checked my trailer voltage earlier though I actually checked it to the ground wire for the trailer and got a full 12v.
Just got back in after another few hours of fighting with this truck wiring:
I tried swapping the plugs between the grand and the dodge, and got the same result. The plugs are identical right down to the part number, but the dodge one is a bit older. I double checked the pinouts and everything seems to be hooked up correctly.
Went back to the TIPM module and everything is as it should be EXCEPT i am now getting a constant 12-14v on the right turn signal circuit (light green wire). The left turn signal voltage (yellow) will fluctuate with the flashing, but the left is just constant voltage, same deal at the plug.
I also hooked up my 7 to 4 pin adapter and tried powering up a set of magnetic lights that I have, and they sort of worked....with the exception of the right turn signal and brake light. And now......i've noticed that the right brake light and 3rd brake light on my truck have stopped working.
So i'm even more confused than I was before, i'm going to try and see if I can find a dealership on my way to Moab on Friday and see if they can spend a few hours checking this thing out. I'll just have my buddy who is driving with me stay behind me for part of the way i guess.
Just got back in after another few hours of fighting with this truck wiring:
I tried swapping the plugs between the grand and the dodge, and got the same result. The plugs are identical right down to the part number, but the dodge one is a bit older. I double checked the pinouts and everything seems to be hooked up correctly.
Went back to the TIPM module and everything is as it should be EXCEPT i am now getting a constant 12-14v on the right turn signal circuit (light green wire). The left turn signal voltage (yellow) will fluctuate with the flashing, but the left is just constant voltage, same deal at the plug.
I also hooked up my 7 to 4 pin adapter and tried powering up a set of magnetic lights that I have, and they sort of worked....with the exception of the right turn signal and brake light. And now......i've noticed that the right brake light and 3rd brake light on my truck have stopped working.
So i'm even more confused than I was before, i'm going to try and see if I can find a dealership on my way to Moab on Friday and see if they can spend a few hours checking this thing out. I'll just have my buddy who is driving with me stay behind me for part of the way i guess.
What if you hook it up with the 4 pin adapter and skip the 7 pin entirely? And is the trailer actually ON the truck, or you are just backing up and plugging in?
Last edited by Dead2Fall; Aug 30, 2012 at 02:11 AM.
I could, and likely this is what i'll do. When i hook it up with the 4 pin, i get running lights, right left turn signal, and left brake light........and obviously no trailer brake control. Not sure how sketchy it would be to pull a 7000lb load with no supplementary brakes as i've never done that before.
I have been just backing up and plugging in.
I have been just backing up and plugging in.




