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Exhaust leak - Broken Bolt

Old Sep 2, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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Default Exhaust leak - Broken Bolt

I have had a killer exhaust tick at certain RPMS for the past 3 or 4 months so I took a look in there and sure enough...I have the good old passenger manifold broken bolt. It's the rear most bolt.


It's broken without any of the bolt sticking out of the head.


Is this a DIY'er or should I take it somewhere?


I would have a really clear shot at it with the splash guard out.

The leak is so annoying too, especially when climbing a hill or under load.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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The thread literally right below this has pics and description...
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 06:29 PM
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Apologies, saw your post in other thread. Drill into them and use an ezout
 
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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It really depends on if the bolt is broken flush off in the head or if there is room to get to it and what tool selection you have.

If you are good enough to get an easy out or weld a nut on, or something to get it out than it wont be to bad; besides the obvious pain of working in there and that job being kind of time consuming.

If you got some good knowledge, good set of tools, and time to do it than id say go for it.

But if you don't have time to and you know a good shop; you might think its worth it just to pay for it and not have to deal with it.

EDIT: on a side note I was going to copy and post the other thread which had some good pictures and same issue you just went through lol. Then I noticed you were the last post on it ha.
 

Last edited by ZWilson07; Sep 2, 2012 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 02:41 AM
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What Zwilson said 100%...I can tell you from working on outboards, either drop the coin on proper tools (so critical) or just take it to a pro. This is not the place you want to be experimenting. Muuuuuuuuch easier than removing 4in corroded outboard exhaust manifold bolts so be thankful for that...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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I had the same thing and just decided to do headers at the same time. With manifolds off the broken bolt threaded out with a pair of pliers cause they were broken off flush with manifolds not the head.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by silverram22s
I had the same thing and just decided to do headers at the same time. With manifolds off the broken bolt threaded out with a pair of pliers cause they were broken off flush with manifolds not the head.

That seems to be the general conscensis of what happens. Just getting the manifold off can sometimes be a pain and the portion that holds the heat shields on needs to be cut off.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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When I did my longtubes, I had two broken bolts. One was finger loose and I got out my hand. The other was tight but enough there to grab with vice grips to remove

When I broke down the engine on my bike, I had some bolts that were really frozen. Some I broke loose with an impact driver, others I had to drill and tap out




 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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Weedahoe I did have a question. Not trying to get off topic much but figured it does go along a little bit.

Do you really need the heat shields?

I understand its job but is it necessary with stock manifolds or can you only take em off if you go aftermarket headers that dont give off as much heat?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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I took mine off and it helped with a small noise near the motor. it really dosent add that much heat
 
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