Just received my Mevotech lower ball joints for my 04 Ram 1500 2wd...thought since there seems to be so much interest I would post pics to let the world see...

I particularly want to hear how these looks compared to the MOOG pieces. Only thing I can flaw is the casting on the face of the Zerk is a little sloppy...nothing that carries into the threads or the nipple area...









Ill update on how they install...

 

that would be great i need to do the same thing to my 04

 

Can anyone at least confirm if MOOG parts are still made the USA?

It is my understanding that they are now made elsewhere like most other commercially available parts?

 

looks the same to me. I put moog on my truck a week ago, same black look, except you got a blue boot protector...mine was black.

 

Cool thanks appreciate the feedback!

MODS- Can you please remove non-work safe word from thread title - a friend told me he doesnt want to risk it (****)

 

Very nice.
I just replaced one of my lower ball joints from Advanced Auto Parts- their $14 part looks damned near identical (black boot) with greasable fitting. Apparently I replaced the non-servicable stockers...
Managed to get ONE done, and tomorrow will be the next- had to figure out the clamp tool after a while.

 

Awesome, I paid $40 for each of these, and Id put money that yours are nearly identical...


Which ball joint press kit did you use to remove the old ball joints? Beaten to death, but Im debating buying the Harbor Freight 4x4 kit (supposedly drop forged vs the "3-in-1" kit, which is cast - as advertised on their site).

I went today and sure enough the part number on the C-frame for each kit is different (one is etched in the frame, the other just has a sticker but no S/N etched in the frame), though the quality looks nearly identical (including the China stamping on each). Maybe this is why some folks have luck with the HF kit and others dont?

 

How to use the HF 3-in-1 ball joint kit:

-First take the medium sized ring and cut a slit down one side of the ring splitting it apart.
-Next, when you set up the tool, make sure you have easy access to the slit. *
-Start applying pressure to the top of the ball joint to push it out of the bottom.
-With a flat head screwdriver or pry bar, start spreading the ring.
-Keep applying more pressure and spreading the ring until the ring snaps around the outer edge of the lower ball joint.
-Continue applying pressure until the ball joint falls out of the lower control arm. **

* You may need to grind down the edge of the ring so it can slide behind the back of the ball joint between the main body of the lower control arm and the outer ring of the ball joint.

** You may need to use a breaker bar to compress the tool and be sure the ring has seated ALL THE WAY around the ring on the ball joint.


It took me 5 hours to remove the first ball joint. I was able to change out the other side in less than an hour after figuring out this method.

 

Cutting the slit prevents you from having to make your own adapter out of pipe I assume....saw your other post but you went into more detail here...I and im sure many others will appreciate it!!!

Oh and Ill let you know how your method goes when I get around to installing...my suspension is really sounding obnoxious so I need to get under here ASAP...


OH,,,and did you freeze your ball joints prior to pressing?

 

The press kit at advanced auto costs $170 to rent - fully refundable. There were so many adapters/combinations that it took me a while to figure it out. Looking forward to changing the second ball joint tonight and getting my deposit money back.