2008 Dodge Ram 1500 stall randomly
#11
Do the relay change first. It's like a two second job. Open the fuse box cover and look at the relay and get the part number on the side of it. Then locate a similar one in the fuse box and just swap them. Litterally 2 seconds.
Even though the relays perform different functions, if they're the same number they are electricallly the same so swapping isn't an issue.
If it's the relay causing the problem, it'll soon prove it.
BTW. You havent had a fluid and filter change done recently on your auto box have you?
I've read of several stalling issues when the flat filter o ring seal hasn't been swapped or installed correctly. I can't remember from memory if that issue pulls a code or not.
This causes the tranny pump to pull air rather than fluid causing stalling issues.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Even though the relays perform different functions, if they're the same number they are electricallly the same so swapping isn't an issue.
If it's the relay causing the problem, it'll soon prove it.
BTW. You havent had a fluid and filter change done recently on your auto box have you?
I've read of several stalling issues when the flat filter o ring seal hasn't been swapped or installed correctly. I can't remember from memory if that issue pulls a code or not.
This causes the tranny pump to pull air rather than fluid causing stalling issues.
Hope this helps?
Al.
#12
^^ Auto box = automatic transmission in UK talk
the stalling and sputtering related to bad transmission filter seating is usually noticed on deceleration when the truck acts like it doesn't want to shift out of gear.
This sounds like it is an electrical issue with a sudden cut-out/stop. Being that there is a stored code for the ASD, I don't know why you wouldn't start there.
the stalling and sputtering related to bad transmission filter seating is usually noticed on deceleration when the truck acts like it doesn't want to shift out of gear.
This sounds like it is an electrical issue with a sudden cut-out/stop. Being that there is a stored code for the ASD, I don't know why you wouldn't start there.
#13
Hi,
I am new to this forum and am hoping someone can help me out.
We have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 that stalls randomly. No lights come on and it doesn't throw any codes. It is a 4.7L V8 engine.
I first brought the car to a mechanic and he had it for a week. Didn't know what was wrong so gave it back. Next, I brought it to Carmax and they had it for nearly 2 weeks (we bought the truck there 6 months ago). They thought TIP Modulator and replaced it. Nope, wasn't that. It finally ended up at the dealer. They said to start at the bottom and replace spark plugs. I never bought that one, but had them replace and two days later the truck stalled.
The dealer now wants to replace coils one by one which is a time consuming, lengthy process, not to mention the cost and even that is no guarantee. Bottom line they don't know what is wrong with the truck since it's not throwing codes. Well there was a history code(?) P0688. I don't know what a history code is or means, but they did some research and are going off of their dodge library.
I went to JustAnswer online and it was mentioned to have the dealer replace the crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor.
The dealer never mentioned either of these sensors as an option.
What do you all think? The truck goes in on Monday.
Thanks,
Nancy
I am new to this forum and am hoping someone can help me out.
We have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 that stalls randomly. No lights come on and it doesn't throw any codes. It is a 4.7L V8 engine.
I first brought the car to a mechanic and he had it for a week. Didn't know what was wrong so gave it back. Next, I brought it to Carmax and they had it for nearly 2 weeks (we bought the truck there 6 months ago). They thought TIP Modulator and replaced it. Nope, wasn't that. It finally ended up at the dealer. They said to start at the bottom and replace spark plugs. I never bought that one, but had them replace and two days later the truck stalled.
The dealer now wants to replace coils one by one which is a time consuming, lengthy process, not to mention the cost and even that is no guarantee. Bottom line they don't know what is wrong with the truck since it's not throwing codes. Well there was a history code(?) P0688. I don't know what a history code is or means, but they did some research and are going off of their dodge library.
I went to JustAnswer online and it was mentioned to have the dealer replace the crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor.
The dealer never mentioned either of these sensors as an option.
What do you all think? The truck goes in on Monday.
Thanks,
Nancy
The dealer is going off what is called a Star Case in trying to locate the problem. I am posting the case below for you to view.
Case Number: S1218000003
Release Date: 01-27-2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Customer may experience a die out, stall condition at any speed while driving or while at a stop. The engine usually restarts right away on a crank attempt. The symptoms may also be described as the engine appearing to lose power with a report that it restarts by itself. They may also be described as a missing, bucking or hesitation. Symptoms may also be accompanied by a MIL on with DTCs set. The actual DTCs may vary, however P0688 - ASD Relay Sense Circuit Low is usually set in PCM with possible power-up-at-speed or loss of communication DTCs set in various modules.
Diagnosis:
The only sure way to diagnose this condition is to capture the event with the data recorder. Graphs of some or all pcm data items during the event will usually indicate a loss of pcm "consciousness" or
communication represented in blank data for a given time on the graph.
The duration of time that the data is missing or the actual data itself that drops out is not consistent and can happen on one or more data items, but not necessarily all.
Note that the data drop out will occur just before the engine speed (RPM) drops off to 0 (representing the stall). Also note that the you may have to zoom in on the stall event to see the data “drop outs”.
Repair Procedure:
If the above conditions are present, inspect all spark plugs and coils for damage, signs of arcing or other abnormalities. If nothing is noticeable, replace all spark plugs and retest for the condition (see note on page 3). If the condition is still present, start by replacing one coil. If the condition is still present, continue moving that new coil around to the other cylinders to substitute for the other coils in a process of elimination until the condition is no longer present. Replace the last coil that was substituted for just prior to the elimination of the condition.
NOTE: BE SURE REPLACEMENT SPARK PLUGS ARE O.E.M. THERE HAVE BEEN INSTANCES WHERE AFTERMARKET PLUGS ARE MARKEDLY DIFFERENT THAN OEM SPARK PLUGS. PARTS AND ARE PROPER FOR YOUR APLICATION. CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN DURING SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF DAMAGE TO ANY PLUG INSTALLED AND TO KEEP NEW PLUG INSULATORS CLEAN.
#14
Nancy,
The dealer is going off what is called a Star Case in trying to locate the problem. I am posting the case below for you to view.
Case Number: S1218000003
Release Date: 01-27-2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Customer may experience a die out, stall condition at any speed while driving or while at a stop. The engine usually restarts right away on a crank attempt. The symptoms may also be described as the engine appearing to lose power with a report that it restarts by itself. They may also be described as a missing, bucking or hesitation. Symptoms may also be accompanied by a MIL on with DTCs set. The actual DTCs may vary, however P0688 - ASD Relay Sense Circuit Low is usually set in PCM with possible power-up-at-speed or loss of communication DTCs set in various modules.
Diagnosis:
The only sure way to diagnose this condition is to capture the event with the data recorder. Graphs of some or all pcm data items during the event will usually indicate a loss of pcm "consciousness" or
communication represented in blank data for a given time on the graph.
The duration of time that the data is missing or the actual data itself that drops out is not consistent and can happen on one or more data items, but not necessarily all.
Note that the data drop out will occur just before the engine speed (RPM) drops off to 0 (representing the stall). Also note that the you may have to zoom in on the stall event to see the data “drop outs”.
Repair Procedure:
If the above conditions are present, inspect all spark plugs and coils for damage, signs of arcing or other abnormalities. If nothing is noticeable, replace all spark plugs and retest for the condition (see note on page 3). If the condition is still present, start by replacing one coil. If the condition is still present, continue moving that new coil around to the other cylinders to substitute for the other coils in a process of elimination until the condition is no longer present. Replace the last coil that was substituted for just prior to the elimination of the condition.
NOTE: BE SURE REPLACEMENT SPARK PLUGS ARE O.E.M. THERE HAVE BEEN INSTANCES WHERE AFTERMARKET PLUGS ARE MARKEDLY DIFFERENT THAN OEM SPARK PLUGS. PARTS AND ARE PROPER FOR YOUR APLICATION. CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN DURING SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF DAMAGE TO ANY PLUG INSTALLED AND TO KEEP NEW PLUG INSULATORS CLEAN.
The dealer is going off what is called a Star Case in trying to locate the problem. I am posting the case below for you to view.
Case Number: S1218000003
Release Date: 01-27-2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Customer may experience a die out, stall condition at any speed while driving or while at a stop. The engine usually restarts right away on a crank attempt. The symptoms may also be described as the engine appearing to lose power with a report that it restarts by itself. They may also be described as a missing, bucking or hesitation. Symptoms may also be accompanied by a MIL on with DTCs set. The actual DTCs may vary, however P0688 - ASD Relay Sense Circuit Low is usually set in PCM with possible power-up-at-speed or loss of communication DTCs set in various modules.
Diagnosis:
The only sure way to diagnose this condition is to capture the event with the data recorder. Graphs of some or all pcm data items during the event will usually indicate a loss of pcm "consciousness" or
communication represented in blank data for a given time on the graph.
The duration of time that the data is missing or the actual data itself that drops out is not consistent and can happen on one or more data items, but not necessarily all.
Note that the data drop out will occur just before the engine speed (RPM) drops off to 0 (representing the stall). Also note that the you may have to zoom in on the stall event to see the data “drop outs”.
Repair Procedure:
If the above conditions are present, inspect all spark plugs and coils for damage, signs of arcing or other abnormalities. If nothing is noticeable, replace all spark plugs and retest for the condition (see note on page 3). If the condition is still present, start by replacing one coil. If the condition is still present, continue moving that new coil around to the other cylinders to substitute for the other coils in a process of elimination until the condition is no longer present. Replace the last coil that was substituted for just prior to the elimination of the condition.
NOTE: BE SURE REPLACEMENT SPARK PLUGS ARE O.E.M. THERE HAVE BEEN INSTANCES WHERE AFTERMARKET PLUGS ARE MARKEDLY DIFFERENT THAN OEM SPARK PLUGS. PARTS AND ARE PROPER FOR YOUR APLICATION. CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN DURING SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF DAMAGE TO ANY PLUG INSTALLED AND TO KEEP NEW PLUG INSULATORS CLEAN.
What are your thoughts on replacing coils one by one? There is no misfiring.
This just seems like a lengthy, costly way to go and I'm not convinced this is the problem. I'll definitely tell them to start with the relay, but it has been suggested to replace the camshaft position sensor too.
Nancy
#15
Do the relay change first. It's like a two second job. Open the fuse box cover and look at the relay and get the part number on the side of it. Then locate a similar one in the fuse box and just swap them. Litterally 2 seconds.
Even though the relays perform different functions, if they're the same number they are electricallly the same so swapping isn't an issue.
If it's the relay causing the problem, it'll soon prove it.
BTW. You havent had a fluid and filter change done recently on your auto box have you?
I've read of several stalling issues when the flat filter o ring seal hasn't been swapped or installed correctly. I can't remember from memory if that issue pulls a code or not.
This causes the tranny pump to pull air rather than fluid causing stalling issues.
Hope this helps?
Al.
Even though the relays perform different functions, if they're the same number they are electricallly the same so swapping isn't an issue.
If it's the relay causing the problem, it'll soon prove it.
BTW. You havent had a fluid and filter change done recently on your auto box have you?
I've read of several stalling issues when the flat filter o ring seal hasn't been swapped or installed correctly. I can't remember from memory if that issue pulls a code or not.
This causes the tranny pump to pull air rather than fluid causing stalling issues.
Hope this helps?
Al.
#16
Yes, I have that exact printout from the dealer stapled to my paperwork LOL.
What are your thoughts on replacing coils one by one? There is no misfiring.
This just seems like a lengthy, costly way to go and I'm not convinced this is the problem. I'll definitely tell them to start with the relay, but it has been suggested to replace the camshaft position sensor too.
Nancy
What are your thoughts on replacing coils one by one? There is no misfiring.
This just seems like a lengthy, costly way to go and I'm not convinced this is the problem. I'll definitely tell them to start with the relay, but it has been suggested to replace the camshaft position sensor too.
Nancy
Nancy,
The ideal thing would be if they used the data recorder as suggested. As far as the cause in your case, that is impossible for me to diagnose. I merely chimed in because I noticed a few posts about how the dealer is ripping you off and other comments like that. The dealer is following the case because it has helped others with similar conditions that you are experiencing. I don't think anyone on here can say for certain what will solve your issue but if you want to start by changing sensors that is certainly an option, unfortunately I cannot say for sure that it will solve the stalling problem with your vehicle.
#17
Relay first as every one else said coils would throw the code. If every ones car acted the same i would just go by what the dealer says but since they dont id try the relay first, always go the simple way first to rule out possiblities of spending big money.
Btw a bad realy caused me to drive home with out tail lights one night spent money on every thing from bulbs to fuses to new wires and nothing fixed them, i was about to spend the big bucks on new fuse box but i just switched one relay in the truck for another havent had a problem since
Btw a bad realy caused me to drive home with out tail lights one night spent money on every thing from bulbs to fuses to new wires and nothing fixed them, i was about to spend the big bucks on new fuse box but i just switched one relay in the truck for another havent had a problem since
#18
Thank you all for your help. They service manager was extremely helpful at the dealership. I did ask them to replace that relay and check the wiring. They are also going to check the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor (not sure if there is away to test). They said even though the factory is recommending replacing coils one by one we don't have to go that route.
I know this is a long shot, but I told them about the newer key to the truck. The truck has never stalled on me, but I only use the original key that we were given from Carmax. A week into owning the car I had another key made and it seems like every time this key is used the car stalls. I don't know for sure - again I think it's a long shot since we did have the key for a few months and it worked fine, but they took both keys and will check them as well.
I also got a call from Carmax as I originally told them to buy this truck back because nobody could fix it. We had it 5 months when all of this started. What I'd really like is for somebody to find the problem and fix it as there is nothing else wrong with this truck. I hate to go the buy back route especially since we've put new tires on it, had it tuned up, had it prewired for an electric brake and bought that new key for $250, but if it can't be fixed I see no other option.
Nancy
I know this is a long shot, but I told them about the newer key to the truck. The truck has never stalled on me, but I only use the original key that we were given from Carmax. A week into owning the car I had another key made and it seems like every time this key is used the car stalls. I don't know for sure - again I think it's a long shot since we did have the key for a few months and it worked fine, but they took both keys and will check them as well.
I also got a call from Carmax as I originally told them to buy this truck back because nobody could fix it. We had it 5 months when all of this started. What I'd really like is for somebody to find the problem and fix it as there is nothing else wrong with this truck. I hate to go the buy back route especially since we've put new tires on it, had it tuned up, had it prewired for an electric brake and bought that new key for $250, but if it can't be fixed I see no other option.
Nancy
#19
Thank you all for your help. They service manager was extremely helpful at the dealership. I did ask them to replace that relay and check the wiring. They are also going to check the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor (not sure if there is away to test). They said even though the factory is recommending replacing coils one by one we don't have to go that route.
I know this is a long shot, but I told them about the newer key to the truck. The truck has never stalled on me, but I only use the original key that we were given from Carmax. A week into owning the car I had another key made and it seems like every time this key is used the car stalls. I don't know for sure - again I think it's a long shot since we did have the key for a few months and it worked fine, but they took both keys and will check them as well.
I also got a call from Carmax as I originally told them to buy this truck back because nobody could fix it. We had it 5 months when all of this started. What I'd really like is for somebody to find the problem and fix it as there is nothing else wrong with this truck. I hate to go the buy back route especially since we've put new tires on it, had it tuned up, had it prewired for an electric brake and bought that new key for $250, but if it can't be fixed I see no other option.
Nancy
I know this is a long shot, but I told them about the newer key to the truck. The truck has never stalled on me, but I only use the original key that we were given from Carmax. A week into owning the car I had another key made and it seems like every time this key is used the car stalls. I don't know for sure - again I think it's a long shot since we did have the key for a few months and it worked fine, but they took both keys and will check them as well.
I also got a call from Carmax as I originally told them to buy this truck back because nobody could fix it. We had it 5 months when all of this started. What I'd really like is for somebody to find the problem and fix it as there is nothing else wrong with this truck. I hate to go the buy back route especially since we've put new tires on it, had it tuned up, had it prewired for an electric brake and bought that new key for $250, but if it can't be fixed I see no other option.
Nancy
Did the stalling start before or after you had it tuned up?
#20