It was NTK 23160.I could get 2 but the supplier that was sending mine along with the plugs only had 1 in stock.If I wanted another one it would have had been coming from another supplier and that would mean waiting.I did come up with the strategy to switch them around if it doesn't work on one side.I will eventually replace them both but right now I'm squeezing the ink out of my dollars so it was more a cash issue as opposed to a common sense issue.Besides that I'm leaning more towards the plugs right now so I spent most of my allowance on them..........

P.S. Thanks for all the tips/info. guys.Now I ain't gotta take it to the stealership.(who coincidentally will pull 650 out of my pocket for a tune up if I let 'em.I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

Fuel injectors should be the next thing you check if the new sensor and plugs don't fix it....

Do you think you can post up what you have done so-far as a recap so I can see if we might have missed anything?

 

Lol this would be help. So much stuff has been discussed.

 

Well a few thousand miles back I put new plugs and wires in.I used (I think)AC Delco but I'm not sure now that was a good idea so I'm gonna yank 'em out and put in Champ Coppers.Everyone seems to think that's the better plug for the Hemi's.I'm also fixin' to replace 1 of the 2 upstream O2's,most likely bank 1.I'll see how that makes it feel.I'm gonna put the other side in maybe next week or the week after.That's all I really done so far since all this problem started givin' me a headache a few months back.

 

Let us know what you get out of the parts.

 

Heres another question for ya'll if you don't mind.For some reason I'm not given permission to start a new thread (?) so I thought I'd ask here.I was poking around under the hood today and checking fluids etc....My power steering fluid was needing a little fill.I went to the Zone and bought their brand,came home and filled it up to the full hot line.Now after looking at the service manual,it says to use nothing but Mopar ATF+4.Will the Zones fluid kill my pump.Do I need to get it out of there? I wish I would have read the manual b4 I filled it up.......dang!

 

if its not atf+4 you you could be installing a whole new steering system soon

 

Yeah it was buggin' me so I sucked out all the fluid.I put in ATF+4 earlier tonite.I hadn't drove my truck since I put the other stuff in so it should be fine now.Thanks fer da help too!

 

OK so I got up under the truck and got the new sensor in the B1S1 spot.It didn't look to bad but I can't tell by lookin at it.It made an immediate difference as far as I can tell though.The truck seems to idle better and has got more pep and less hesitation.I don't know if this was the problem child or not but time will tell.I'm gonna see if I can find someone with a meter or a way to test the old one and see exactly what kind of wave it has.I obviously don't have a meter to do that but maybe one of the local places might do it for me.I'm gonna post a pic here of the old one just for s***s and giggles and maybe ya'll can chime in if ya wanna.I know theres not much to tell by lookin at it but ya never know right.The old one was more than likely original since I had to disconnect the wire from a ribbed body moulding plug to get it unplugged.I don't think a shop would clip it up like that so I'm guessin' it was factory.It had 70K on it if thats the case so it was overdue.I'm gonna do the plugs next w/end hopefully.Thanks ya'll for the help too.

 

the way to test this is to supply it with the required power it needs to heat up and run, then you spray a cloth with brake cleaner (so that it is slightly damp in one spot) then you put the sensor on top of the spot on the cloth and fold the other end of the cloth over it.

While the brake cleaner covered cloth is over the sensor QUICKLY get a voltmeter and hook it up to the other leads and you should see the voltage change... if it does not stay steady at that voltage and instead starts to go back to where it started then you have a bad sensor.

There are some YouTube videos on how to do this as well but they are usually for aftermarket wideband sensors... concept is still the same. The voltage that gets returned on the signal wire should be between 0-1V, it should go to full rich (0 Volts) and stay there, if it goes to 0 and then creeps back to 1V then its a bad sensor.

Good Luck testing it, narrow band sensors are a major pain to test.