So I went camping on the weekend was on some rather tough roads, I get home after a few stops along the way which i had shut off and started the truck at the stops. I was about to leave my house and i pressed the remote start on my autopage alarm and nothing happens just the horn sounds, kinda weird.. So i unarm the alarm and doors hop in and turn the key.. nothing. Everything in the truck works with full power but truck refuses to even try and turn over no sounds nothing. I plugged my superchips flashpaq in to read some codes, P1260 came up, now it turns out that its a "Theft Detected, Immobilized wont start" code. It sounds like that might be the problem, but why? and what immobilizer? the Autopage or the stock one? Any methods to override it? I also noticed the ETC light (lightning bolt) on the dash stays on longer then usual.. weather that has to do with anything or not. Any help is much appreciated thanks!

 

okay there could be a few things that happened here.

Did you install the alarm/keyless entry/remote start system? Or did you have someone else do it?

If you had someone else do it, go look at the receipt and look for what type of "ignition immobilizer bypass" is on there.

If you don't know which it is just list all of the model numbers as best you can.

What I am thinking is you may have disconnected the bypass or the bypass reset itself and lost your VIN #. And because your factory system is disabled to allow the R/S to work, your truck thinks it's being stolen and locks out the Ignition.

 

Its an Autopage C3-RS1100OLED alarm and remote start and the immobilizer bypass is a "I-Data?" cont find the work order but thats what the guy said on the phone. He got me to try turning ign on and holding vallet switch until it chirped but all that did was "paging driver" on the remote.. Im dead in the water over here

 

okay so what is going on is the immobilizer has lost its memory.

this the immobilizer you have and its a POS!

idataLink ADS-AL CA

To temporarily fix it yourself you need to do the following:

1) goto this link
http://www.idatalink.com/support

2) Find the exact model number of your bypass unit.

3) Download the manual

4) follow install instructions (for programming)

5) Might need a laptop and a USB cord of some type to bring to the truck to program it


what you need to do to permanently fix this problem is the following:

1) Get a SECOND programmed key copy made for your truck (home depot can do it for $60-80) make sure it is a key without keyless entry on it.

(by second I mean you will need to bring the installer TWO (2) keys that are able to start the truck, and they must NOT have keyless entry on them)

2) Buy this

http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=44

3) have it installed at a REPUTABLE Alarm & Remote Start Installer!


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I am not too familiar with the Idata units mainly because they were always Complete CRAP, and would lose their programming all the time, causing the car not to start.


If you just want to bring it to the installer to have him deal with it, then there might also be a shut-off switch (there should be) that will allow you to manually turn off the remote start feature. (not the vallet button, should be a legit switch)

Then you should be able to start the car.

Do yourself a favor and buy a Viper 5901 2-way unit and the bypass mentioned above and the only problem you will likely ever have is a low battery warning....

 

Thanks for the help! I talked to the shop that did my alarm they said that immobilizer is the best on the market lol and it is that Idata one model number and everything. Another installer told me to disconnect my battery for 2 minutes then connect and try? I might just have to get my truck towed

 

Promise you those are garbage... I was an MECP certified installer all through college... I promise you they are garbage... nothing beats the mechanical connection of the 556UW unit I posted a link to.

When those other units lose power they only have a few hours of back-up power then *poof* they lose their VIN # programming, and the car's OEM system takes over.

Any of those units that get Programmed are generally garbage.

 

Ya I believe you they probably are garbage. Now I was on some pretty rough roads 4x4ing for about 35 min on a logging trail, you mentioned they hold a charge for a few hours then lose the #?. You think it was caused by the constant movement of the trails. So it could be as simple as just changing the bypass?