I think I am going to swap the filter later today or tomorrow. If the lifter is still tapping I am going to switch back to the mopar conventional.

 

Im curious to see if that helps

 

Well I just said **** it, and did a complete oil change and went back to the mopar 5-20 dino oil and mopar filter. It actually did seem to quiet it down a little bit. Interestingly oil pressure warm while cruising is the same, but oil pressure warm while idling is a little higher than it was with the PP and Bosch.
However the noise is still there for the first 2-3 mins of easy driving... after that it gets quiet. Outside the truck is is noticable, mostly from the wheel wells... almost zero sound from in the engine compartment. You would never be able to hear it in the cab with the radio on. In fact 90% of people would never notice it from in the cab while driving with the radio off... I notice it because I know what I am listening for... from in the cab it is a light fluttering sound (lifters/exhaust leak) from idle to ~1200 RPM... then the noise goes away.

After I got the truck back it was wisper quiet, even on cold start... zero lifter/exhaust noise. From about 400 miles till now, 1900 miles... it has likely gotten gradually noiser, even though I noticed it mostly this past week.

Right now my money is on a exhaust manifold problem. The proper way to do any manifold/header install is to torque them down, and then re-torque them after driving a few hundred miles... obviously the dealer did not/could not do this. This coupled with the fact that these trucks have manifold problems to begin with, I wouldnt doubt the manifolds have loosened and I am getting an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak does sound like noisy valves, and an exhaust leak can also broadcast valvetrain noise as well.
Called the dealer last night and left a message, he never got back to me so I will call again tonight. Get this, the service/parts department of my dealer is open from 7am-Midnight!!!!

 

Bingo on the Exhaust/Manifold..... Just make sure they do the work with the engine COLD else you'll pull those threads on studs right out of the block and then you're in for a very fun time having them heli-coil/timesert the head...

 

Just my 2 cents. Lower oil pressure isn't always a bad thing. Higher oil pressure is a result of tight engine tolerances, or restrictions. I don't know anything about the Bosch filter, but slightly lower oil pressure could just be a sign that your filter and synthetic oil flows better than the Mopar part.

 

I agree, but if his truck seems to like the conventional oil better, I'm not going to lose sleep over it.

 

I understand that. To me seeing same oil pressure at cruise is nice... but I definitely like seeing higher oil pressure at idle. Alot of vehicles, including the hemi has too low of oil pressure at idle IMO.

Also, I dont know if it is the filter or if it was the oil because I changed them both at the same time.

A side note though, the mopar filter does have a coil spring anti drain back vs the leaf of the bosch

 

well the only way to change that is to change the oil pump all together... Also keep in mind that the OEM gauge is not exactly 100% accurate... it's more of a guideline type gauge that just lets you know if you are EXTREMELY low or not...

 

True, but mine does move quite a bit. I can easily tell the difference between warm oil at idle, cold oil at idle, warm oil at cruise, and cold oil at cruise. All I am doing is comparing gauge location for one oil/filter combo to another... I have no quantitative value for these comparisons at all.
I am suprised when people on hear say that they oil gauge never moves... its either on or off.

 

I've seen the commercial that shows the cardboard internals of the Fram. Do you know what? I still use a Fram $4 special lol