Have you considered, since you said this happened after you filled up, that you have bad gas in your tank?? Just thought I would throw that into the mix, as no one has mentioned it. Let us know what you find out.

 

Yeah..OK. Wouldnt fix the problem if this is cause by a bad ECU or a plugged cat now would it?
Your one cat is cold, while other is hot. This could be from raw fuel igniting in the cat causing it to get hot, or it could be completely blocked and not allowing exhaust gases past. One way catalytic converters go bad is from raw fuel igniting inside them and causing the hioneycomb mesh to melt and become one big brick of blockage. You could have had it red hot driving into the gas station, and by the time you were done fueling, it had time to cool into a big blob mass of blockage causing half of your motor to not breathe.
Some of the above codes could be caused by a low battery, so I'd have your battery tested at your local parts store. the mechanic should also have checked it as well since they have a wheel around battery tester.



To add to what 66three83 has said, if you take off your intake tubing and have someone keep briefly squirting starting fluid down the throttle body asd you crank and attempt to keep running, that will be tell tale sign of bad gas or pressure regulator.


There's no reason they should have changed and charged you for a new fuel pump if you were getting pressure at the fuel rail. I mean, did they even check for that?wtf? I know some guys have had stalling problems when taking turns due to a bad checkvalve at the top of the pump, but thats a different story than your speaking of.
i love it when Dealers play "Guess'n'Check" games with the customers money. proves even more so they have no freakin clue on diagnosis.


You can take the cat pipes off the headers and see if it'll fire and stay running. if you take the inner fender liners off(very easy), you have complete access to the lower header bolts to remove the cat pipes for a test fire. As long as they are pulled away a few inches, you should be good to test. this will prove to be a plugged cat. A $150 fix.

 

He already did a compression check and said it was good. I'm leaning torwards an electrical issue. (Battery) Or a cracked intake manifold. The cracked intake manifold will cause bad readings from all the sensors. Also check where the EGR goes into the intake manifold. Maybe it's broken back their.

 

I am also leaning towards cracked intake manifold or intake manifold gasket is blown out due to a back-fire into the intake... He'll need to smoke test the intake tract and vacuum lines to confirm that, or take the intake manifold off and swap with a known good one.

Your other option is to bring the truck to a reputable automotive technician school and see if they want to use your car in class as some real-life experience... Labor is basically free all you have to do is provide parts.

Just a thought..

 

My truck did the same thing, granted it was after a cam swap...but it ended up being the Cam Position Sensor ($20 Part), swapped it and it fired right up and ran great... Being that your problem occured relatively fast and threw lots of codes I'm not sure that that is the issue but figured I'd throw it out there...Hope you get it back up and running

 

Definitely a possibility, I would also try this as well.

 

Take the positive battery wire off and ground it to you're truck frame or fender for 30 seconds.. This will reset the computer and reset everything that might have happened in the ecm...My 04' Hemi starts acting up sometimes when I let it idle too long , it loads up with fuel and the computer don't know what to do to correct it .. I reset the computer and it runs like new again... try it...

 

Let us know if that works..Mine get's so bad sometimes it shuts down , but it don't stay that way , it will start , just runs like crap.. like it's missing on about half the cylinders..It won't idle and taking off it spits and coughs ... After computer reset , It runs like brand new , until I let it idle for too long again.. for mine it's the fact that I only installed 3 of the four 02 sensors when I built the truck.. So after idling too long the computer don't know what to do , so it loads the cylinders with fuel..
Good luck...

 

I know this thread is a little old,however I would like to know if this has been resolved.
Aaron are you out there?
My '03 Hemi had similar symptoms but that turned out to be the #8 intake spring broken.R/R spring and all was well. Until I changed the left bank springs-but that's another thread (and No codes if you can believe that!).
I'm curious about the 'old battery' syndrome mentioned.It's very possible that whatever V regulator is used to produce the 5V, is getting weird at lower voltages and I'm inclined to think about a high resistance ground at or near the battery cables.Or even a voltage regulator failure/intermittancy from high temps.
Without good grounding these little 5V circuits can dance all over the place looking for a place to ground to (IIRC this is referred to as a 'floating ground').Even feed 'backwards' through other circuits which can freak out the sensors involved.
Makes me wonder about that flaky ground strap on the 5.7 Hemi valve covers.You know,once you pull them off they're never very snug again.
As for the EGR comment, seems to me I read that the Hemi doesn't use an EGR system.
Anyways, it was great reading through this thread.
Skies
J

 

well the majority of systems in the truck run on 12VDC... it gets stepped down by very small transformers on circuit boards when there is a need for 5VDC.

But to have a "floating ground" situation on a vehicle you would need to have 12+ VDC being supplied directly to the Chassis (b/c this is a Chassis Ground system) so if you were to touch the metal body of the truck while grounded to an external ground (earth ground for instance) you would get a nice 12VDC shock... and it would be very painful.

So if you don't get shocked when you touch the body of the truck and a ground outside the truck then you have a floating ground condition.

For that to happen you would have to have a nearly catastrophic failure of an electrical component in the truck, that was shorting directly to ground. And the vehicle's computer would almost immediately short out and would not run at all, as it would not complete a circuit because 12VDC would be supplied on both ends of the circuit.

So I highly doubt that is the case.

I am more inclined to think that an electrical short somewhere has caused your PCM (Computer) to burn out, but we cannot confirm that is the case without a starscan tool or another identical PCM that is known to be in good working order, or another identical truck that is in working order that you can test your PCM on.

Any DC circuit "can" jump around, but it is difficult for them to do so without a mechanical failure occurring as they are generally isolated to their own system.

I've skipped the technical "mumbo jumbo" to make this easier to read in layman's terms.