Ram won't start
#12
I think the timing chain jumped sprocket. Had that happen to me at 198,899 miles. Never had a single issue with the motor. Here are pics of what I believe happened to your motor.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/members...uck-16342.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/members...uck-16342.html
#13
Code:
283 - only thing I can find on this is: C0283 Traction Switch Shorted to Ground now if it displayed it as 28 3 (with a space between them then it's: 28 - Glovebox/map lamp output circuit shorted or open. and 3 is the number of key strokes, or if it displayed as: 2 83 then it's: 02 - Airbag warning indicator output circuit open. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. and has been there for 83 key cycles.
Code:
C447 - Also doesn't seem to exist... Also might be C 447 0C PRNDL switch input circuit shorted - and 447 is the # of key cycles. Only thing that somewhat matches up is a P Code that might be related.... P0477-LOW VOLTAGE ON THE ENGINE BRAKE DRIVER (I know it isn't the same numbers) Possible Causes: - Engine Brake Driver harness is open or shorted - Engine Brake Driver circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Brake Driver Relay
Possible Causes
WIRING HARNESS
ENGINE BRAKE DRIVER RELAY
FUSED B+ OPEN
ENGINE BRAKE DRIVER SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
ENGINE BRAKE DRIVER SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY NEGATIVE
ECM
Another Code that comes up as related is:
P0447 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
Possible Causes:
- Purge Control Valve harness is open or shorted
- Purge Control Valve electrical circuit poor connection
- Faulty canister vent control valve
Code:
5 125 05 MIL indicator output circuit shorted. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. 125 - indicates that is happened 125 key cycles ago (you turned the key 125 times since it appeared)
You will need to find someone with a DRB III Scan Tool... they will be able to read those codes and actually troubleshoot them right there with you.
Your issue is DEFINITELY Electrical, somewhere, something got disconnected or a wire/harness broke and is shorting to ground... I'm very sorry to say but this may not be a very easy thing to find... but I would start by looking for the systems mentioned above.
Just so we can eliminate some possibilities (and don't take offense to any of these questions:
1) Was the truck ever involved in an accident (Particularly where the front end was damaged)?
2) Was the truck ever on fire? (or is there any evidence that it might have had some/any kind of fire)
3) Was the truck ever involved in a flood?
4) Do you take the truck off-roading EVER? Even dirt/rough/unpaved roads?
5) Have you ever crossed water higher than 2 feet deep?
6) Do you live near the coast (NEAR A LARGE BODY OF SALT WATER)?
7) Do you live around a lot of wild-life? (particularly rodents such as Racoons, Squirrels, Chipmunks, Mice, etc.)
8) Has your battery EVER gone dead (especially recently before this problem occured)?
9) Do you live in an area where lightning strikes are a serious problem? (Western Tundra/Desert etc.)
10) Have you plugged anything into your car, like a power inverter, battery tender, battery charger, etc. etc.)?
11) Have you installed any aftermarket electrical accessories? (remote start, stereo, speakers, amps, subs, etc.)
Last edited by Izero; 11-20-2012 at 08:31 AM.
#14
bought truck dec 2011
i live in northern ontario,have had no problems with truck it was begining of may 2012 when truck 'died'
a week later i took to dealer charged me 53.00 to look at truck and say the motor needs to be replaced
he never gave me any codes.just there bill saying 'engine cranks will not start,possible internal damage'
truck has been sitting as i was told almost $4,000 or more to replace motor
i just bought a code reader and the first code that came up was for the cam shaft position sensor p0340
i bought piece fro $38.00
will be changinging that when i get a chance and see what happens
the other codes that came up when i pushed trip button,are written out exactly as i saw them on as they came up
i really appreciate everyone taking there time and trying to help with my problem with truck
THANK YOU
will keep you posted on how and if it works
THANKS AGAIN
i live in northern ontario,have had no problems with truck it was begining of may 2012 when truck 'died'
a week later i took to dealer charged me 53.00 to look at truck and say the motor needs to be replaced
he never gave me any codes.just there bill saying 'engine cranks will not start,possible internal damage'
truck has been sitting as i was told almost $4,000 or more to replace motor
i just bought a code reader and the first code that came up was for the cam shaft position sensor p0340
i bought piece fro $38.00
will be changinging that when i get a chance and see what happens
the other codes that came up when i pushed trip button,are written out exactly as i saw them on as they came up
i really appreciate everyone taking there time and trying to help with my problem with truck
THANK YOU
will keep you posted on how and if it works
THANKS AGAIN
#18
#19
#20
Were there metal shavings INSIDE of it? Or just around the outside of it?
If there is metal shavings inside then you might have some much bigger problems than we originally thought...
Did the new sensor fix and/all of your issues?
I would do an Oil Change ASAP, and flush with 2 extra quarts of new oil... just to be sure you get any metal shavings out of there as best you can.
If there are metal shavings in your oil, you might have very well spun a bearing on the crank or possibly had something else go wrong in there, which might be why the dealer said it's time for a new motor... but they should have given you a service report with their findings and recommendations, which would tell you "WHY" you need a new motor.
Just my thoughts.
Let us know.
If there is metal shavings inside then you might have some much bigger problems than we originally thought...
Did the new sensor fix and/all of your issues?
I would do an Oil Change ASAP, and flush with 2 extra quarts of new oil... just to be sure you get any metal shavings out of there as best you can.
If there are metal shavings in your oil, you might have very well spun a bearing on the crank or possibly had something else go wrong in there, which might be why the dealer said it's time for a new motor... but they should have given you a service report with their findings and recommendations, which would tell you "WHY" you need a new motor.
Just my thoughts.
Let us know.