I did the back flush which would work for a day or two but because of the rust in the lines it kept getting clogged. Changing the hoses is what ultimately fixed the problem. Here is the link to the filter I put in the line right before the heater core


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLO...andard-_-Item1

 

Thank you. That does seem like a damn good idea.

 

I would take credit but I stole the idea from a guy on another forum.

 

About six wees ago my heat got cool, so my (X) mechanic reversed the heater hoses at the firewall. His theory was the core was clogged with dirt and this would reverse the flow and clean it out. I was skeptical. The thing almost melted my contact lenses on the drive home. Worked great.

 

hahahahahahahaha well you've now pushed w/e was clogging it somewhere else in the system... so now you have to hope your cooling jackets are working okay.... You should have flushed and reverse flushed it to get it all out of the system....

 

Hey,,,,,,,,,,,, I called to order today. I hope you realize those are only rated to 160.
I ordered another type.

 

Wound up doing the same, after a water pump, t'stat, and countless number of times tearing out the dash, a coupla weeks ago.
Now, getting a faint smell of coolant in the cabin with fan operation.
I'm changing the core this weekend.

 

I have been running it for 2 weeks at 195 degrees with no issue. Could not find where the temp rating was listed. Which one did you by I may switch it out. With my luck the one I have will melt when I am in the middle of nowhere.

 

The rating was in their catalogue.
I got a 'wye' strainer. Grainger doesn't carry adapters, got a couple 1/2 mptx 5/8 barb at the hardware store. Strainer size is 40 mesh, i think i'll use some brass mesh to get it finer. Doesn't have the filter area of yours, i may have to clean it on occasion.
Your filter @ 160 rating may last. Manufacturers usually put a 'fudge' factor in. I don't want to push it.
Doing this today