2004 Dodge RAM 1500 5.7L 126k miles

I have noticed that somewhat recently, my truck tends to heat up when running at higher RPM's and towing. It has not overheated, but the temp gauge moves well past the center line where it usually never moves. I have also noticed there is some oil consumption at higher RPM, but as I recall, this has always been the case (I run 5W30 Mobil 1 Syn) - doesn't seem overly excessive and somewhat expected at higher RPM (and no power loss or other issues). I have also noticed that even sitting at idle on warm days (I am in PHX, AZ so "warm" days is an understatement) the temp gauge will tend to start rising as well..

Items done:
* Radiator was replaced @ about 70k for a leak at the seam - so the rad isn't new, but fairly recent
Other items done very recently to attempt to address this:
* Cleaned the radiator (all debris, etc.)
* Replaced the water pump and T-stat
* Replaced the main upper/lower rad hoses
* rad flush and pressure tested (had this done at a shop)
* new rad cap
* new rad fan clutch (I think this really helped the warm up at idle situation, but as expected, no effect on the heating up at high RPM)
* I have checked / replaced the plugs to ensure no issues there - old plugs looked perfect in all cylinders
* PCV valve (I think this was contributing to the oil usage at high RPM)
* Cleaned the throttle body

So, other than replacing the radiator (again) done just about everything. Perhaps this is just normal... at high RPM it does heat up irrespective of outside ambient temp - I just took a trip up north where temps were in the 50's and it still heated up). My next step is to put a real engine temp gauge on so I can see the real temperature versus the onboard gauge. I don't recall having this issue until recently (last 10k miles or so) - so, it doesn't seem this "heat up" issue was always there.

I was thinking of putting a nicer all aluminum rad in, considering the extreme heat here in PHX...perhaps the current radiator is partially plugged only has about 55k miles on it). I also thought about running 10w40 as opposed to the 5w30, as the thicker oil may cut back on some of the oil consumption and provide better protection at high RPM when towing...don't think this will do anything for the heat up.

 

Your truck shouldnt use any oil, nor should it get any hotter then its supposed to.'
I live in Texas so i somewhat feel your heat pain.
I used a Low Temp Thermostat and just recently switched to a electric fan.
But then again you shouldnt be above the 12o'clock mark

 

well it looks like he's done everything except replace the thermostat, so I'd also get in there and replace that... it's a very easy one to replace.

Your truck will get a LITTLE bit hotter if you're towing a heavy load (3,500+ lbs) but it shouldn't be more than a few degrees.

Did you replace the Radiator with a Dodge OEM Part, or did you replace it with a no-name/autoparts store/aftermarket brand? If that is the case then you might have gotten a smaller radiator (in terms of # of fins and core size) which will hurt your cooling efficiency.

So lets start there and see where is takes us.

Also if you could get an actual temperature reading it would help us diagnose and also tell us if it's even anything to worry about.

 

Sounds like a faulty t-stat to me. OEM is 203*F, but you can get 180* units, which I would recommend for Arizona anyway. I live in south Texas, where it's over 100* most of the summer, and even before I switched to the e-fan and 180* t-stat, the needle usually sat right near the middle mark and fluctuated very little, except when towing. While towing, it would raise above the centerline by about 1/8" or so (estimate), but it was also 107* outside and I was doing ~70mph most of the trip.

The oil consumption under load sounds like worn piston rings to me. Do you have a lot of miles on the clock?

 

I also live in Tx I run a factory t-stat. Try a bottle of purple ice. Its made by Royal purple. Towing my gauge would be dead center, now its about a needle width to the left. (cooler).

 

What kind of coolant did you use? If you used all kind coolant, you got sludge in your cooling system. When you mix the factory coolant with any "Green" or any kind coolant, they will react with each other and cause sludge in your system. You will have to thoroughly flush your coolant system multiple times to clean all the sludge out of your cooling system. This sludge likes to sit in the engine and the small passages in the radiator. It will be a reddish almost rust like sludge that will easily mix into the coolant and reduce the efficiency of your cooling system. Make sure you are using the same kind of coolant it came with from the factory.

 

you are over 100K miles so LITTLE oil consumption is expected. No more than half a quart between oil changes is acceptable in my opinion. If the timing chain hasn't been chainged, I suggest you do so. Take a look at my pictures and you will see what happens when you put off something that important. Ruin the entire Valvetrain. The oil consumption is most likely due to worn out valve stem seals which you can order from any local auto parts store. It's quite an undertaking for a novice-back yard mechanic as you will have to pull off the valve springs to do. Always easier to do with the cylinder heads off the motor.

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/members...uck-16342.html

Those are the pics of what happens when you put off changing the timing chain. Timing chain streched jumped one tooth on the crank sprocket. $4000 for a used engine and basic parts you change when you change motors. That does not include labor. $2500 to rebuild the old motor. New valves, springs, push rods, lifters, and machine work to seat the valves properly along with gaskets and everything else to do it with.

Speaking from first hand stupidity experience here.