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No heat again!!! Grrrrr

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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by mikh338
i had the entire system completely flushed and bleed and all new coolant in it today
And did you get your heat back?
I too did a flush of everything, radiator, engine and heater core but I still had to burp it with a pump. My theory is the heater core section of the system is low flow. If you have an air pocket there isn't enough force to over come the bubble, but once you have the air out you get the right amount of flow to get plenty of heat. Like I said it's just a theory.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 12:29 PM
  #72  
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Mikh338,

Well I decided to work on the truck today while it was warm, since the coldest part of the winter is still ahead of us. I decided to purge/bleed the heater core someway other than by conventional methods. To this point all of those methods have failed me!

So, I separated the upper most heater hose (highest on the core), down near the side of the cylinder head. After the hoses leave the water pump and make the 90* turn toward the firewall, there are "unions" in each hose where they can be separted.

I pinched the hose ends off just beyond each end of the union and separated them. At this point I lifted the rear portion of the hose so that it was at least horizontal where it connected to the core. At this point, using a small funnel, I poured antifreeze into the hose until it was full and had burped all of the air from the system. Ultimately, the coolant began running out of the coolant tank since I was holding the hose at a height higher than the coolant tank neck. At this point I did my best to pinch the hose off while it was full of coolant and re-attached it to the other end of the hose. Of course I could not completely purge the system this way, because there was the space inside the union that was void when I reconnected it.

After installation was complete I ran the truck for approximately 15-minutes and the cabin was tropically warm... There is certainlly a difference over that which I had been experiencing since the HVAC work... Given that it is unseasonably warm today (50*) however, I will need to wait until after the weekend to give a true report...

Regards,

Carlos
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 05:51 PM
  #73  
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alright guys well tomorow i am taking it back to my buddys work and his boss has a special machine that sucks any and all air that will be in the system out. its pretty cool it doesnt suck the coolant out, just air. he said you can literally watch the hoses colapse it sucks so hard. his boss has only had to use it a few times on very stubborn cars, and it has worked everytime so im praying for the best!! i will let you guys know tomorow what happens.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #74  
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my friend was too busy to look at truck yesterday so i didnt get to go. but what i just noticed is if i take the heat control and turn the know half way in between warm and cold its actually decently warm. why could this be? i was thinking the blend door was installed wrong but i dont see how that would be possible? also i always smell coolant after i drive the truck i have a bad feeling about a headgasket issue so i took the oil fill cap off and there is all kinds of white jelly crap on the bottom of the cap. a couple of mechanic friends said thats common in the winter especially with chryslers so idk
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:28 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by mikh338
my friend was too busy to look at truck yesterday so i didnt get to go. but what i just noticed is if i take the heat control and turn the know half way in between warm and cold its actually decently warm. why could this be? i was thinking the blend door was installed wrong but i dont see how that would be possible? also i always smell coolant after i drive the truck i have a bad feeling about a headgasket issue so i took the oil fill cap off and there is all kinds of white jelly crap on the bottom of the cap. a couple of mechanic friends said thats common in the winter especially with chryslers so idk

That's not good. Sounds like a headgasket problem for sure.

Do an oil change, but drain the oil into an open pan (make sure it can hold enough liquid so you don't make a mess) and check for coolant on the surface of the oil in the pan.

If you have coolant in there then you likely have a headgasket problem... as for the heat issue, if you smell coolant in the car then you likely have a bad heater core or the lines to/from the core (or the core itself) are leaking coolant into the cabin. Even in small amounts you will smell it.

Have a leakdown test done to confirm the headgasket as the issue.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 03:32 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Izero
That's not good. Sounds like a headgasket problem for sure.

Do an oil change, but drain the oil into an open pan (make sure it can hold enough liquid so you don't make a mess) and check for coolant on the surface of the oil in the pan.

If you have coolant in there then you likely have a headgasket problem... as for the heat issue, if you smell coolant in the car then you likely have a bad heater core or the lines to/from the core (or the core itself) are leaking coolant into the cabin. Even in small amounts you will smell it.

Have a leakdown test done to confirm the headgasket as the issue.
i dont smell heat inside its on the outside when i get out. heater core is brand new i just did it a few weeks ago as are all the blend doors, water pump, radiator, rad cap, tstat, clutch fan and serp belt. i have been told by several mechanics now that chryslers always get this white jelly in the oil cap\fill. here are a couple pics
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #77  
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well good news finally. i was told all that crap in the oil fill is normal for chryslers espec in the winter time and they do not think the head gasket is bad. the good new is i pulled the arm off my actuator that controls hot to cold and bam heat is blazing on both sides, so i must have put one of the blend doors in upside down(idk how i even managed to do that)!! so i left just about everything ripped apart just so the truck was driveable so it should be fairly quick to get it all back out and switch the door\s around.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:33 AM
  #78  
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so took everything back out of truck once again, had the housing the blend doors sit in upside down so we swapped those and everything seemed to move together correctly. so put it back together let the truck run with cap off until it was warm and filled tank and bam had heat on both sides!! yeah that lasted for 10 mins. driving home from the garage my heat went out again and all of a sudden the truck started running horribly. it was misfiring so bad that when just easing into the gas the truck would violently buck back and forth. i just dont get it im done with this truck. anyone want it, im going to buy a cheap beater for every day driving i just cant deal with this thing anymore ive absolutely had it. truck has 93k, its an slt+. new tranny at 52k, several new wheel bearings, just inspected, new battery about a week old. new water pump, radiator, rad cap, clutch fan, tstat and serp belt. new heater core, all new blend doors. black leather, has heated seats and remote started. ebay intake and flowmaster side exahust. 2011 oem 20s. make me an offer
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #79  
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That milky crud is not "normal" it is a sign that you're leaking coolant and burning it in the crankcase/block somewhere.... the result is that milky crap once it condenses back into a liquid.

I had it on a Subaru, and let me tell you it was definitely a head gasket...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #80  
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so i noticed my lower rad hose was pretty cold so i thought the new tstat i put in might have gone bad. so i put a new one in today. now the truck wont come up to normal heating temp its stuck way low towards the cold symbol, like the tstat is always open or something. WTF is wrong with my truckkk!!!!!!
 
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