Whacky Temp gauge
Thanks for the idea, but yeah, I set the new pump near the battery and when I pulled a bolt out, I put it in the correponding hole on the new pump. Tensioner I didn't even take bolt out of the tensioner, just loosened it until it cam off and set whole assembly aside with bolt still in through the hole. So it is for sure the correct bolt.
Ok, got s bolt ordered from the dealer $2.xx no biggie. A replacement pump on order...truck will be down for 2-3 days, oh well.
But I am continueing the flush process...never had this happen before, I drained, replaced pump, had the issues mentioned above, filled with distilled water ran, cooled over night, drained and filled with distilled water again, then coolant got up into funnel in radiator and started boiling. I let it go a while, waiting for it to suck back in. Still blowing cold air, no heat, temp gauge hardly regitered. I got nervous after while and shut down, then it sucked right in, I started back up and gauge registered a little above half, which I didn't think was too bad being I don't have the fan on cuz I gotta replace the pump.
Wondering if I should pull thermostat out to make process faster instead of waiting for it to open/close.
Also, will it not blow heat with core hoses reversed? I don't really see why it wouldn't, not like there would be a check valve or anything?? Otherwise reverse flushing would to nothing..
But I am continueing the flush process...never had this happen before, I drained, replaced pump, had the issues mentioned above, filled with distilled water ran, cooled over night, drained and filled with distilled water again, then coolant got up into funnel in radiator and started boiling. I let it go a while, waiting for it to suck back in. Still blowing cold air, no heat, temp gauge hardly regitered. I got nervous after while and shut down, then it sucked right in, I started back up and gauge registered a little above half, which I didn't think was too bad being I don't have the fan on cuz I gotta replace the pump.
Wondering if I should pull thermostat out to make process faster instead of waiting for it to open/close.
Also, will it not blow heat with core hoses reversed? I don't really see why it wouldn't, not like there would be a check valve or anything?? Otherwise reverse flushing would to nothing..
Last edited by HemiMoparGuy1981; Dec 6, 2012 at 02:35 PM.
I tried pulling out the tstat. When I pulled the bolts out, they were mushroomed at the end similar to the tensioner bolt; also up removal of reman pump the idler pulley bolt was mushroomed too. Having reinstalled the tstat bolts, it screwed up the rest of the threads, prolly got cross threaded from the mushroom effect from first installation. I mentioned the issue to my dad in passing, and he said it sounds like the pump hadn't had a bottoming tap run through it in the bosses during the reman process...which seems to make sense the way they bolts mushroom...well, I guess not really mushroomed, cuz that is like expanded from beating with a hammer, but they are fudged up none the less, and appear exactly as my dad said, the bosses were not bottom tapped, just taper tapped. So everyone be warned if going with a remanufactured pump, to thoroghly inspect for this before accepting the pump. Mine was from Auto Value. I ordered one from Carquest and will be available in the AM, I'll report my findings, may be worthwhile to spend the extra cash on a new pump cuz of the hassle. Once I replace the 5 bolts it screwed up at about $2 a piece I'll have $75-$80 in the reman, coulda had a new for $90...plus the headache I went through and the down time of my truck, prolly woulda been well worth the extra $10-$15




