Is there anything I should worry about when switching from conventional to synthetic?
Shouldn't an 07 Hemi use 5W20? I know my 08 does. I hope you've got the right oil. Unless the 2500s run different weight oil
I believe the 2500's run 5w-30 b/c they don't have the MDS system like the 1500's...I'd have to check the owners manuals to be sure though... It should say what the required Oil viscosity is right on the oil filler cap...
5.7L Engine Oil (For trucks operating
under a gross combined
weight rating less than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-20, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
5.7L Engine Oil (For 2500/3500
trucks operating under a gross
combined weight rating greater
than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-30, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
5.7L Engine Oil (For trucks operating
under a gross combined
weight rating less than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-20, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
5.7L Engine Oil (For 2500/3500
trucks operating under a gross
combined weight rating greater
than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-30, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
under a gross combined
weight rating less than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-20, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
5.7L Engine Oil (For 2500/3500
trucks operating under a gross
combined weight rating greater
than 14,000 lbs.)
Use SAE 5W-30, API Certified, meeting material standard MS-6395.
Hooray! I was right! *highfive*
I think you misunderstood my wording. They didn't have 5 QTS in 5w20 so I got 7 single bottles of 5w20. As far as I know its supposed to be 5w20 in the hemi as you stated. Its even labeled as such on my oil cap and in my manual.
I never recommend combining synthetic and conventional or mixing weights. But either can be done. Mixing weights is not an issue as the weight of the oil only describes it's viscosity at high and low temperatures. The only chemical difference in weights is the amount thinner or thickener they use in the oil to reach the desired viscosity. (thinner weights for winter, thicker for summer) Also, if you got a slight burning off of oil in the combustion chamber due to age and wearing valve guide seals, I suggest using a thicker oil to reduce this oil burn off.
Ex: 5w30 is thinner (lower viscosity) at both extremes than 10w40.
But synthetic and conventional are two separate chemical makeups making it a far more riskier than different weights. Always use all of one kind or the other on oil changes and you can go back and forth between the two if you like. It will cause problems if you swap between the two EVERY oil change.
You should be fine when changing over from conventional to synthetic. Just be sure to keep checking that oil level and I suggest an early 2nd oil change on the synthetic. After about the 3rd or 4th oil change, you shouldn't have any noticeable residue from the conventional in the engine anymore and in the clear. I don't see you having any problems with what you are doing.
Ex: 5w30 is thinner (lower viscosity) at both extremes than 10w40.
But synthetic and conventional are two separate chemical makeups making it a far more riskier than different weights. Always use all of one kind or the other on oil changes and you can go back and forth between the two if you like. It will cause problems if you swap between the two EVERY oil change.
You should be fine when changing over from conventional to synthetic. Just be sure to keep checking that oil level and I suggest an early 2nd oil change on the synthetic. After about the 3rd or 4th oil change, you shouldn't have any noticeable residue from the conventional in the engine anymore and in the clear. I don't see you having any problems with what you are doing.
You can't use a thicker oil with MDS regardless of burn off or the MDS wont fnction correctly. If you have MDS disabled like I do or could care less if it operates correctly, then a 5w-30 would be suitable.
I would not reccomend using 10w-30. it's too thick for cold winter start-ups and wont lubricate the engine properly.
Wrong again. Synethic and conventional CAN be mixed and they mix just fine. Did you know that most cheaper Synthetic brands such as Pennzoil and castrol are Base III stocks which means they are like 70% Conventional and 30% Synthetic makeup. And yet they call then Full Synthetic. yes the conventional is more refined, but it's still not Full Synthetic. Synthetic means man made.
What i would reccomend even past that... Pour 1/2qt of marvel mystery oil in the engine and drive for 100miles before your oil change. This will break most of the residue that would take the Synthetic an entire oil change to do. Then I would still pour 1qt of conventional to clean out the bottom of the pan as it always has risidual dirty oil that doesn t drain out.
Mixing weights IS an issue and should NEVER be done. They don't mix and they give terrible lubrication consitencies.
You can't use a thicker oil with MDS regardless of burn off or the MDS wont fnction correctly. If you have MDS disabled like I do or could care less if it operates correctly, then a 5w-30 would be suitable.
I would not reccomend using 10w-30. it's too thick for cold winter start-ups and wont lubricate the engine properly.
Wrong again. Synethic and conventional CAN be mixed and they mix just fine. Did you know that most cheaper Synthetic brands such as Pennzoil and castrol are Base III stocks which means they are like 70% Conventional and 30% Synthetic makeup. And yet they call then Full Synthetic. yes the conventional is more refined, but it's still not Full Synthetic. Synthetic means man made.
Why waste an expensive bottle of Synthetic for that? Just use conventional and save some money.
What i would reccomend even past that... Pour 1/2qt of marvel mystery oil in the engine and drive for 100miles before your oil change. This will break most of the residue that would take the Synthetic an entire oil change to do. Then I would still pour 1qt of conventional to clean out the bottom of the pan as it always has risidual dirty oil that doesn t drain out.
You can't use a thicker oil with MDS regardless of burn off or the MDS wont fnction correctly. If you have MDS disabled like I do or could care less if it operates correctly, then a 5w-30 would be suitable.
I would not reccomend using 10w-30. it's too thick for cold winter start-ups and wont lubricate the engine properly.
Wrong again. Synethic and conventional CAN be mixed and they mix just fine. Did you know that most cheaper Synthetic brands such as Pennzoil and castrol are Base III stocks which means they are like 70% Conventional and 30% Synthetic makeup. And yet they call then Full Synthetic. yes the conventional is more refined, but it's still not Full Synthetic. Synthetic means man made.
Why waste an expensive bottle of Synthetic for that? Just use conventional and save some money.
What i would reccomend even past that... Pour 1/2qt of marvel mystery oil in the engine and drive for 100miles before your oil change. This will break most of the residue that would take the Synthetic an entire oil change to do. Then I would still pour 1qt of conventional to clean out the bottom of the pan as it always has risidual dirty oil that doesn t drain out.
And if you are really **** about your engine (like me) you can contact Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/) and get a sample kit and then send in an oil sample and they will tell you what they find in the oil.
They are a great service but they are small so it can take some time to get the free test kit and the results, but it is well worth it, I usually do mine once or twice a year.
As far as synthetic, I like the fact that I can go a little bit over the 3000 mile mark without worrying about complete oil breakdown, so that's why I use synthetic in all my vehicles.








