Vent Selector Not Working
#11
I am having the same problem. All vents work fine when selected except the floor vents. The air just doesn't come out of them. I Google's around and found some information about it. The page I looked at was saying to check the blend door or whatever it is called. They said it is the one on the drivers side under the dash. I haven't looked at that one yet. I checked the one on the passengers side yesterday. It is the one that controls the cold/heat mix. What's weird about the whole situation is that even though all my vents work except the floor, it seems like it take for ever for it to change. Especially when I'm changing the cold/heat control. Let me be more clear. It takes a while to change the vent the air is coming out of. It also takes a while to change the temperature.
The one on the lower left, roughly behind the cig. lighter, is the one that cycles air between floor and vent.
#12
The one that is behind the cig lighter is the culprit in my case I'm sure. I looked at it yesterday and it only moves when I either select dash or defrost. It appears to be electrical. I didn't see any metal actuator on it anywhere. Looked like it was mounted directly to.....don't know what to call it, blower motor housing I guess.
#13
If the actuator moves, then the motor is good. Could be a problem with the linkage to the damper, or the damper itself.
The 'blower motor housing' is the HVAC box. To get at the internals, the dash has to come out, coolant drained, refrigerant reclaimed. The steel structure that all that plastic surrounds and bolts to I couldn't get out. I wound up cutting the tacks and bolted it back together.
Chiltons and Haynes do not show all the steps involved, and neither do all the yahoos on you tube. It can be done.
And, if you do decide to go that far, might as well change the heater core and evaporator coil while you are in there.
Just give alot of caution pulling or installing the box. The core/coil ends are aluminum and distort easliy
The 'blower motor housing' is the HVAC box. To get at the internals, the dash has to come out, coolant drained, refrigerant reclaimed. The steel structure that all that plastic surrounds and bolts to I couldn't get out. I wound up cutting the tacks and bolted it back together.
Chiltons and Haynes do not show all the steps involved, and neither do all the yahoos on you tube. It can be done.
And, if you do decide to go that far, might as well change the heater core and evaporator coil while you are in there.
Just give alot of caution pulling or installing the box. The core/coil ends are aluminum and distort easliy
#14
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#17
I got the same prob. I know its not the vent doors. It wont change when I turn the slector ****. But even now and then it will work, or verry slow to react. I am comming to the think its the slector **** internal guts of the electical board its self. Its sucks when its on vent when I need defrost.