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Had injectors checked

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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 06:31 AM
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Default Had injectors checked

It still won't idle, the codes say circuit 3 and 5 injector problem. I changed the harness,had 3 and 5 injectors checked they said they were good. I connected the fuel line to the rail and turned the key and bumped it a few times had a friend watch the injectors and they do work. I pulled the intake thinking I had a leak and noticed fuel in the 3 and 5 ports in the head? Engine sounds great above 1500 rpm but let my foot off the gas it loads up and dies? HELP!!!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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have you checked the Throttle Body? Might need a cleaning....

That type of problem can be caused by a multitude of things... and it will be hard to pin-point.

Have you performed any major maintenance lately?

Any modifications to the truck?

How many miles are on the truck?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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Sounds to me like the number 3 and 5 injectors are leaking down. Fuel in the intake ports of the head is a dead giveaway. Sounds like whoever tested them didnt do a very good job of it, they probably just checked resistance values. Try swapping the number 3 and 5 injectors around with 2 different cylinders that arent giving injector codes, and see of the codes change.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BigSloth
Sounds to me like the number 3 and 5 injectors are leaking down. Fuel in the intake ports of the head is a dead giveaway. Sounds like whoever tested them didnt do a very good job of it, they probably just checked resistance values. Try swapping the number 3 and 5 injectors around with 2 different cylinders that arent giving injector codes, and see of the codes change.

That is a good method.... also whenever I remove and install injectors I ALWAYS replace those o-rings... I've seen more than one engine have issues b/c the o-rings are worn/torn/etc.

A $1.00 O-ring is worth the extra few steps.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Izero
That is a good method.... also whenever I remove and install injectors I ALWAYS replace those o-rings... I've seen more than one engine have issues b/c the o-rings are worn/torn/etc.

A $1.00 O-ring is worth the extra few steps.

Ditto. Also, use some lube on the o-rings or you"ll risk cutting/twisting them when installing them. I use standard motor oil. Just a thin coating is enough.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:24 AM
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They used to make a special lubricant that isn't petroleum based so it wont dry out the O-ring over time... I can't remember the name of it... but that is what I would suggest to use if you can find it.

I remember it saying "Silicone Grease"

If the o-rings are neoprene you can use petroleum based products, but if it's rubber silicone is what I suggest.
 

Last edited by Izero; Jan 31, 2013 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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Did you pull those valve covers and check to make sure there are no broken valve springs. A lot of guys/threads have had the same issue where they can get it started but have to hold the gas to keep it running and have found broken springs
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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He PMed me and told me he's got a fully Built motor and heads.... so I'm gonna wait until he posts a full Mod list.... as I've got a few theories on this one.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 01:19 PM
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Yeah, he PMed me too but I guess he didn't like my thoughts.

New engine and heads huh? That leads to a ton of questions. How old/new is this engine? Who put it in? Mileage on it? Why was the first engine replaced?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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Yeah. I just told him to post up the complete mod list so we could start troubleshooting... a lot of factors with a built motor and heads.
 
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